Rear engine wiring

[Tinkley]

Quick one. Which colour spades go to the two connections at the rear n/s of the XU52 1.6 engine? I've got all the others in the right place, just these to go. It's just the order I'm after ie brown further out. Thanks

[citronut]

isnt the brown one for the TDC sensor Tim, i think,

dont take my word for that, might be yet another senior moment

regards macolm

[Tinkley]

Thanks Malcolm. Its on the loom with white to alternator, red to starter motor, blue to carb sensor, and then a yellow and a white which feed on to two sensors almost vertically above the speedo drive and close together in the back of the block. Guess I could try it one way and see if the instrumentation works! The main one I want working out the lot is water temp as I need to check the thermostat is still OK. Preferably both the amber and red warning temp sensors. I've had a thermostat go before, the BX got from Paignton to Stonehenge 4 up with boat on back before the clog up called the A303 at Stonehenge caused a couple of lights to come on. Almost instant stop to cool down, save those O rings!.

Sorry about the brown reference; I should have used the real colours as the other main multi connectors are indeed brown.

[citronut]

if memory serves there is only two plug connectors at the rear N/S of the engine, one being for the TDC,
and the other is hulio level gauge prob,
unless you have a speedo transducer instead of a cable driven speedo

regards malcolm

[Tinkley]

Thanks again. The 2 sensors are I believe the water ones in the back of the cyl head next to the dipstick holder. They are shown in photo 8.6b in the blue Haynes ref 2B.10. The worst that can happen is the red light comes on before the amber I would think. They are obviously X° for one and X° for the other, so either way hopefully at least one lights up for saving the engine. I didn't need to remove the sensor down on the edge of the flywheel, presuming the tdc one to get the gearbox off. It's a std cable driven speedo, must say that plastic 'pin' retainer always feels like its going to break...

BTW that poxy steel tube from the heater across the back of the block had knackered brackets ie fractured on both my cars. A case of bending too hard a grade of steel over too tight a radius me thinks.

Good progress generally. New clutch, release bearing, all new CV boots, new intermediate bearing, new driveshaft seals, new BV75/80, everything back together except airbox and carb. The driveshafts took a bit longer than expected esp as one of the Oetiker clips was too big (used cabletie) a rather messy job. Intermediate was easy after angle grinding outer of old bearing and driving it off to get purchase on collar.
On to the 'corrosion ' issues today, a bit of angle grinding out with the Fein etc and 2 pack epoxy. It's had a couple of advisories last year so I need to sort it. All at the rear esp nearside sill.

[mat_fenwick]

If it's the same as on the diesel, the yellow connector is for the red warning light and the white for the amber light from memory. Best to check though by shorting each to earth and seeing which light comes on. I thought it was at the front of the engine though?

[Tinkley]

Thanks Mat. I was thinking of trying them shorted - I've done it with the fan thermostat before to get operation, and your advice will hasten me trying it. On both my B2C (XU52C) engines the sensors (presumably bimetallic switches) are at the rear. From what I could see of some pics of the diesel they are at the front though.

[mat_fenwick]

It's been 10 years since I worked on a petrol 1.6 XU, so it seems my memory must be failing. In light of that I have just checked the connector colours, and they are the way round which I stated above!

[Tinkley]

Thanks Mat. I've only ever owned petrols but have been in a number of diesels from the base 1.7 through 1.9 and turbo. The latter two were good cars, the former was even slower than my 1.4! but loads more torque. I've put the yellow connector to the most inboard sensor and the white one on the most outboard.
It's all live now after charging the battery, just need some deionised water to fill the cooling system then prime the fuel side. Oh I still hate the taste of petrol and I'm sure I will have to suck some through the main feed pipe yet!

[mat_fenwick]

If you clean up the switches you should be able to see the closing temperature stamped into them (105 and 112 °C, again from memory!). I can't remember if you have to remove them first though...

[Tinkley]

Thats a good memory Mat, well done!. The Haynes states yellow connection 110-114° and the blue one 103-107°. Of course I have a yellow and a white connection.... but at least they should come on in some order. Even one on is a warning, just hope they still work on this engine, they did on the old one. Saved me once when entire cooling system rad fan, fuse, thermostst U/S!.

[kbami8txd]

I thought the BX engine was in the front ? Or was there a Sahara version ?