Clutch creak

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Dollywobbler
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Clutch creak

Post by Dollywobbler »

My BX mood swings continue. Just had a short drive in it and reminded myself why I like BXs so much...

But the long trip at the weekend definitely left me gloomy. One reason is the horrible clutch. It started creaking after a hot traffic jam. I know clutches get heavier as they wear, but this one seems to have plenty of bite left in it. What's causing the creak? I do have a new cable to go on it, but I can't see how that would creak. Is this likely to be a pivot issue?
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by rutter123 »

my theory is that over time the plastic liners start to harden hence making the pedal heavier and causing the creaking , my tgd suffers the same worse in summer?? you can remove the cable and try to lube it but prob with little success, best fit is a new cable it does make a big difference, but also worth thinking about the pressure plate springs going hard, this tends to cause a notchy/creaky pedal. clutch history?
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Dollywobbler
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by Dollywobbler »

Had a new clutch with the replacement engine I think, about 107,000 miles ago...
citronut
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by citronut »

try backing off the clutch adjuster Ian

a friend on mine bought a POLO round for me to look at for her indoors,

the clutch actuation had a serious creaking in its operation,

i backed off the clutch adjuster and it was sorted,

the cable was just under to much load,

or maybe the outer cable feral is not seated correctly in the back of the pedal box, so the inner is rubbing against the bracket

regards malcolm
Last edited by citronut on Thu Jul 04, 2013 9:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Dollywobbler
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by Dollywobbler »

Sounds possible. Very high bite on this one compared to the TXD I had. Jumping from one to the other resulted in either driving like grandma or stalling it!
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by BX Bandit »

The clutch release bearing used by citroen has a small square section shoulder that pushes on the 'fingers' and eventually wears a groove in them, even to the point of them snapping. My guess is that the groove is already well worn. That's assuming the noise happens when you depress the clutch as opposed to it occurring continuously with the engine running
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by BX Bandit »

A high bite is a sign of worn clutch! Or as Malcolm suggested, an incorrectly adjusted one! Check the hbol for the correct adjustment/pedal height/travel
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Dollywobbler
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by Dollywobbler »

Well, I'll try adjusting it, and might even try a new cable. If the problem remains, then I can see the life of this car being much reduced. I have to stop spending money on it at some point. Which that point had been before the front-to-rear pipe failure!
Tinkley
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by Tinkley »

Having literally just driven the car with new clutch, using existing ie old cable but lightly lubed I have no creak. The old absolutely knackered clutch/release did creak then it squealed and finally only allowed selection in a non engine running mode. The bite on this new clutch is very high as opposed to hitting the floor with the pedal even after adjustment.....
I had to move the adjuster a long way (20-25mm) to get a small bit of tension on the floating pin, but I assume that this was down to different clutch make and release bearing.
It's worth playing with the adjuster, but as said above the 'fingers' get a bit of a groove in them from the release bearing shoulder and it is surprisingly sharp.

I have a LUK clutch Ø215mm kit for cost £72 if you want and if it will fit.
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by citronut »

Tinkley wrote: The bite on this new clutch is very high as opposed to hitting the floor with the pedal even after adjustment.....
I had to move the adjuster a long way (20-25mm) to get a small bit of tension on the floating pin, but I assume that this was down to different clutch make and release bearing.
BX Bandit wrote
"an incorrectly adjusted one!"

well a high bite point usually comes about as the clutch wears down,


Tinkley
can you remind me what brand of clutch you ended up fitting to your car,

as the biting point ( at the point the clutch takes up on engagement ) should be no more than half way up the pedal travel if all is well, and a good quality/brand
( genuine not fake :shock: :roll: :wink: ) clutch kit was used

regards malcolm
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by Tinkley »

The clutch was a Valeo 801258 kit but with a different release bearing, also Valeo for the ball pin type fork. It's a BE3 gearbox which can be converted to the later cross pin and fork release. The release bearing is a bit different to the previous Valeo one as it does not have the hard shoulder abutting the fingers but a more domed shape which rotates right to the edge. I have assumed its OK to use as dimensionally its the same ie depth and diameter. The doming in the contact area is identical to the Valeo one I took out which was still more than serviceable, and to the doming on the clip release type which I have kept for possible future change of release fork. It was used on the Visa 1.6 engine, BX1.6 and obviously some Peugeot. Genuine part from NEAT autos. I still have the Valeo kit packaging all green and white, certainly looks genuine, no missing characters in the spelling etc maybe that should be chalacters.....

Seems to work OK. Its probably I was getting so used to fighting with the old one absolutely pushing the pedal into the floor to get release. Adjusting it everyday, in the end until it really went, it had done 67k according to the records I have for the car. Yet to dismantle the gearbox off old unit, expect no fingers on diaghram or no release bearing as we know it. Its also 9 years since I drove my old Athena with a new clutch so its hard to remember exactly where the bite was then. With the new one just fitted I noticed that I had to lift my foot free at the top end of pedal travel more than I expected but previously by half travel it would have been fully engaged. I think take up is pretty much in the right position, its just a little bit more 'spring' left in the pedal as one eases up after its biting.

I believe the adjustment screw needed a lot of change because of differing clutch cable lengths between the two cars when I moved one engine and transmisson to the other. I kept the same driveshafts that were mated to that gearbox too as they are used to working together. The actual gearchange is sweet, no fighting with the lever just a nice 2 finger pressure action on the lever and in she goes. I do not expect to find a quality clutch inside the extracted unit - 67k when I have driven 39k of them is not good. I'm quite intrigued to find out but need to get rust sorted for MOT first. I've only driven the car 'round the block' to check everythings working, so it hasn't had more than a couple of miles to bed in yet.
citronut
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by citronut »

the bite point still should not be more than half way up the pedal travel,
if its near when you get to the very last part of the travel, it will be on the verge of sipping,

how is your pedal box ( clutch pedal/cable area ), cracking/spiting???????
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no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
Tinkley
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Re: Clutch creak

Post by Tinkley »

Where the clutch cable goes into the bulkhead it all looks OK. I gave it a fair look as I considered changing the cable whilst the engine bay was empty. Almost certainly easier!. There are no signs of corrossion or cracking in the immediate vicinity of the little 'pyramid' shape steel. I assume this is the pedal box area or certainly entry into it from the engine side?.
I'll have another look though as I've got to grind some rust in the driver footwell area. Just rechecked release point, the start of biting is a bit beyond halfway up but not excessive. I think its the extra spring that keeps pressure to raise the pedal after biting that I have found so different.
It's a totally different feel, to the old clutch even when I bought this car. Much closer to the old Athena with remanufactured engine and new clutch. Maybe just because its a Valeo unit again.
I'm afraid after getting it warm last night (checking thermostat cut in - its fine) and going round the block I did give it full squirt when some local oik who keeps telling me its (the BX) a pile of *hit, came into view. Even had both front newish Michelins' spinning, something very, very, rare for me. There was no clutch slip, all the squeal was the tyres!!. Normally I drive for economy, easy on brakes, high corner speed and relatively gentle acceleration so this was completely out of normal. Equally you need to know it all works to the max when required, usually to avoid an accident.
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