I have had interesting times when the car is left standing in rain. The back of the Fusebox fills up with water shorting the relays. My 'cure' is to run with the fuse box hinged down. To me it seems quite a way from the sunroof drain in the A pillar. It could be that or a gap in the windscreen seal ie the bond to the glass. You guys have met this problem I'm sure, which would you suggest?
It is quite ghostly to see it with shorted relays and ultra low glowing of the lights When you fold back the black plastic undertray under the relays water literally pours out.
I can see the sunroof drain in the A pillar but can only open the door 1/3rd the way at the moment. Sealing the windscreen is probably a replacement, I've had one leak before just not all over the fusebox!, merely a wet carpet jobbie. That sunroof drain must be 125+mm to the side of the fuse box at least.
mat_fenwick wrote:What's the condition of the metalwork like under the washer bottle?
+ 2 with confidence, removal of one 6mm bolt (10mm A/F) holding the washer bottle in place will reveal all!
Kevan
1997 Mercedes C230 W202
2003 Land Rover Discovery Series 2 Facelift TD5 - Daily driver / hobby days and camping.
1993 Land Rover Discovery 200tdi Series 1 3 door - in need of TLC
2020 Fiat Panda 4x4 Cross Twin Air.
could this be the beginning of the end of said bx? if its gone on the bulkhead likely the a pillars and flloorpans will be going/gone too, and likely the chassis/sills, worth checking all underside too as they rust from the inside out, sadly this was the demise of my tgd turbo years ago, but nowadays i would certainly repair it rather than scrap.
90 BX Tzd turbo 294k SORN undergoing major surgery
90 BX Tzd turbo estate 46k awaiting surgery
65 Peugeot Boxer Van the new workhorse
52 Toyota Rav4 180k Bulletproof Jap reliability
What is the cure? I don't mean for the existing damage but to prevent it from occurring further, more, at all. Is there a drain hole that gets blocked or something? Seems we should all be looking here and attempting to intervene before our bouncy buddy buckles.
With respect to the sunroof drains I have yet to do my current ones. I own a 'cat gut' wiring line (a long nylon cord with an eye on it for threading cables through tight places like pipes, sills etc) and this is ideal to probe the tube. it is stiff but soft. Steady at the back, there. However if it meets with an obstruction I have always then very carefully tried to clear it with some water. Only once did this fail which meant coming back up the pipe from the bottom, not so easy, and doing a dynorod. The pipe stays put buy pushing it on. I fear it coming off by pushing the other way. Then you are Bugnered
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
What's the condition of the metalwork like under the washer bottle?
+3
That whole area is effectively open to the elements from the air intake grille above.
If the rot has gone through to the inner wing then it will need welding to satisfy the MOT tester. If not, and if the welder can't be bothered to do the bit under the bottle then clean the rusty edges as much as possible and fix a plate from the inside and squadge a load of silicone rubber over the top to stick the plate and to seal the hole. If welding that area then insulation must be removed from the inside to stop it catching fire.
not sure of a cure apart from removing and replacing said metal, the likely suspect is blocked drain holes in the bulkhead caused by leaves and crap building up and ultimately making a nice little pool of water that cant escape, and over years going un noticed because its out of sight under the screenwash res, eventually the rust worms break through the tin and start eating the a pillar bases and floorpans/sills, worth pulling the carpets up and checking for damp as the soundproofing is a good trap for moisture. moisture in the carpets can usually be told if your windscreen does not demist as it should, as the blower will circulate damp air. a typical bx rust hot spot.
90 BX Tzd turbo 294k SORN undergoing major surgery
90 BX Tzd turbo estate 46k awaiting surgery
65 Peugeot Boxer Van the new workhorse
52 Toyota Rav4 180k Bulletproof Jap reliability
So effectively a rust trap and worthy of inspection and treatment at any stage.
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work
Thanks guys. I have yet to remove the washer bottle but had a good poke around prior to my post. There is no obvious rust and the drain hole is clean and open likewise o/s. The rear sills are a bit shot and I am having them welded ie new ones, along with o/s inner wing - a bit crunchy ie daylight forward of VIN plaque. I 'fixed' the outer rear n/s sill with 6k carbon and that's still fine .
I would have expected to at least see or feel signs of rust despite the washer bottle in situ if that was the problem. The n/s inner wing has been welded in the past (before I bought it but much further forward) and there is no obvious degradation from that. The welding is forward of the dip in front of the strut support flange. MOT advisory was corrosion on inner sill but not excessive (twice), hence sill jobbie planned. The guy doing the welding said just glass the open rear part for the time being until he can do the job. He has a website and is called Danny Masters, I've met him and seen some of his work and workshop so he can do good quality.
If it's only a small hole, I'll get it welded but if it is not a hole? There is no obvious rust on the outside of the A pillar. I have dealt with small bits at the bottom of the B and C pillars, ie ground it out with Dremel etc and 2k epoxied and so far that's held up. Too dark tonight and other issues such as setting the ride height....and finding a buggered new drop link thread....possibly another casualty from the pothole.
Sounds silly but is the drain tube 'tucked' through its hole in that door pillar? If not it could easily get placed to shower your fusses and relays.
There is quite a big rolled seam at the front part of the scuttle on either side , it's part of the plate that takes the strut and it's a common rust point and if not found would spread back along the seam at the lower/outer edge towards the main cabin.
The whole seam across the front of that bulkhead is prone too if it wasn't sealed properly at the factory.
Chaffing by the washer bottle can also start rust spots. Just had two on mine about 3cm across. Gladly just surface though.
The main drain hole is pretty big, about 4cm across and I guess could get blocked by leaves etc.
1990 BX 16V Platinum Grey
1990 BX TGD White
1960 Morris Minor Clarondon Grey
1971 Triumph 2000 Auto Valencia Blue
'What's the condition of the metalwork like under the washer bottle? '
I can now update - What metalwork! Only about 100mm sq gone when all cleaned up. Bit cheeky, the o/s has been welded (under washer bottle) and has minimal corrosion to deal with. The near side was incredibly deceptive, only after removal (of washer) did any (lots) nasties show up. I rather fancy glassing this as it is obviously a tricky place to weld, probably need dash out etc. It also has gone straight through the rear wheel arch behind upright to strut. None of the glass work would be visible without removing the washer bottle he he
Probably get the tiny bit of wheel arch welded though.
No wonder I was getting water straight into the fusebox!
How structural is that part of the inner wing, and v small part of the A pillar? Fairly sure I can get it down to clean metal and sacrificing a bit of polythene sheet inside build up some rovings and then some carbon with structural epoxy as per my sill repair.
Maybe it might be time to transfer everything to the crashed one which does not have as many corrosion problems. Can't move it cause I've raided engine and subframe... and it needs some welded new panels first....might still be best option.
in which case i would certainly remove the n/s wing and inspect all around the a pillar base and inside the a pillar, but as you say this will req removal of the dash, fusebox, carpets etc to do any sort of welding, a full strip out really needed here as welding this area is a fire hazard. also while your there remove all the splash guards as this will more than likely reveal the full extent of inner wing corrosion, as in my case all the splashguard lip down to the bumper mount and all along under the lhm res. pretty much the same for both sides. sounds as if you have a world of pain coming your way, been there done that on my tzdt now showing 33 repairs/welding in most of the usual rust hotspots and prob a few more to come. the joys of bx'ing huh.
90 BX Tzd turbo 294k SORN undergoing major surgery
90 BX Tzd turbo estate 46k awaiting surgery
65 Peugeot Boxer Van the new workhorse
52 Toyota Rav4 180k Bulletproof Jap reliability
Cheers Rutter. I think I'll get away with it for a while. There is only light rust on the A pillar end, and the upright to the strut is also superficial. So 2 holes, first one directly under bottle and to inner wing where I have cleaned it back to the folded tabs which are still intact. The other is just behind the upright to the strut and forward of the the drain 'valley'. There's a few little holes towards the main drain hole but not too serious. NO rust visible on door hinges or A pillar you can see/feel with door open.
It is plateable or even for a skilled man could be seam welded and ground. Just don't have any metal working gear really, silver solder a bandsaw blade fine. I suspect it would be good enough for this area too. A full strip out is not doable whilst I use it as a daily with no other vehicle. If it was more a 2nd car it would be OK. So I will fudge it with epoxy, glass and carbon all covered in 2k paint....
The underside wheel arch bit will be blended in to the steel and you won't easily find it once a bit of road dirt is on....
The rust under the paint and sealer is pretty evil as by the time you see it, there's quite a lot of rot. Spent 6-7 hours doing the box section under the drivers seat (by the large grommet seals) last week, as the 'stonechip' was peeling - revealing lovely layers of rust.
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