jacking points

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tim
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jacking points

Post by tim »

I had to RAC the White One back from Hampshire last month (see Mothman's blog.) due to an ongoing hydraulic leak. When the patrol guy turned up he looked in all the wrong places for leaks, then got out his jack and shoved it right under the car. At this point I told him politely that he was about to do a BAD thing. He replied huffily, " you don't know where I'm going to jack it yet". I had a feeling I did and pointed out the points on the sills. Was I right? Even if he was going for the subframe wouldn't this still be wrong; I thought the subframe would buckle if used in this way. If so I saved the ol' moo from some serious damage.....
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citsncycles
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Re: jacking points

Post by citsncycles »

The jacking points are in the centre and each end of the sills, where a thick piece of metal (shaped for the factory jack in the case of the centre one) can be seen sticking out between the inner and outer sill panels on the joint.

Unless you're very careful you can bend the subrame of you jack on these - if you ever see Timex in the metal just look at the state of the front subfame! there's also not many places on the floorpan structure that I'd jack the car up on. The only places other than the sill points I'd consider jacking are right on the rear mounts for the front subframe, and on the rear tie down points / tow hitch mounting plates on the rear, although I only do either of these as a last resort.
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Tinkley
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Re: jacking points

Post by Tinkley »

Concur with Citsncycles, my current fr subframe has obviously been jacked in the middle but fortunately it is not too bad. If you have to use it, go for under the wishbone pins it is strong there.
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mat_fenwick
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Re: jacking points

Post by mat_fenwick »

I've had corrosion caused by jacking point damage on the sills of another car, so I take off my own wheels now when getting tyres changed. The ONE time I didn't - on holiday so in a rush - they split the sill seam open by bending it whilst using a trolley jack on the rear points :evil:

I use the front subframe to body mounts, and the rear subframe just inboard of the sills if using anything other than the factory jack.
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citronut
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Re: jacking points

Post by citronut »

i never use the car body jacking points ( or any point on the body shell ) unless there is no other way to get under the car,

i have also seen the rear tow eyes bent right over were people had jacked on these,

alway use the sub frames, with obvious care to try to not bend them

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citsncycles
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Re: jacking points

Post by citsncycles »

I've not heard of anything similar on our cars, but about 10 years ago the press got hold of a series of wishbone failures on Vauxhalls that were traced back to the tyre monkeys jacking on them and damaging them!
Mike Sims
BX 19RD Estate Mk1 - Timex!
BX 4X4 Estate - Oh god, I've done it again!
BX 17RD MK1 - it called to me!
BX14 TGE, - SOLD
XM Turbo SD,GS Club Estate,Visa 17D Leader,HY Pickup,Dyane Nomad,Dyane 6,2CV AZL,Falcon S,Trabant P50,3x Land Rovers (88" series 1,109" series 2a FFR,series 2a Marshall ambulance),DKW F7, Lambretta LD150 x 1.5,Mobylette SP93,Ural Cossack,Ural M63,CZ 250 Sport,Honda Varadero 125,lots of bicycles & tricycles including (but not only) Sunbeams,Higgins & Bates!
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Re: jacking points

Post by Defender110 »

I always jack in the centre of the subframe but with a nice piece of 52 x 1" wood between the jack and frame to help spread the load.
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themildbunch
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Re: jacking points

Post by themildbunch »

Defender110 wrote:I always jack in the centre of the subframe but with a nice piece of 52 x 1" wood between the jack and frame to help spread the load.
Yep, that's what I do too and the subframe still looks ok.
You do need to be careful doing this though that when you lower the car you don't get your jack stuck between the sump and the ground! The front subframe is a fair way back and it's easily done, especially if the suspension is low which it probably is until the height correctors get some movement on them. I've found if I have the car running and lower it slowly the sump survives!

Another way, if you have a couple of good jacks and help is to jack each side of the rear, front subframe mount together. This is probably the best way but not always possible...
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sdelasal
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Re: jacking points

Post by sdelasal »

I too do something similar to spread the load when working on the car at home - If I ever got a flat tyre though out on the road - not sure what i'd do given the only tools I carry are the standard jack. Do you lot carry your wood, trolly jack etc around with you - just in case?
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Re: jacking points

Post by citsncycles »

I've got a scissor jack that has a slot in the top that fits the original centre point quite well that I carry in the back of the car for use on the road. It has an advantage over the original jack in that if the suspension drops you can still get the bugger out!

For home I bought a low access trolley jack from Machine Mart on one of their VAT free days - again it'll go underneath with the suspension right down, which my last one wouldn't do.
Mike Sims
BX 19RD Estate Mk1 - Timex!
BX 4X4 Estate - Oh god, I've done it again!
BX 17RD MK1 - it called to me!
BX14 TGE, - SOLD
XM Turbo SD,GS Club Estate,Visa 17D Leader,HY Pickup,Dyane Nomad,Dyane 6,2CV AZL,Falcon S,Trabant P50,3x Land Rovers (88" series 1,109" series 2a FFR,series 2a Marshall ambulance),DKW F7, Lambretta LD150 x 1.5,Mobylette SP93,Ural Cossack,Ural M63,CZ 250 Sport,Honda Varadero 125,lots of bicycles & tricycles including (but not only) Sunbeams,Higgins & Bates!
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