rear arm repair.

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really?
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rear arm repair.

Post by really? »

can anyone reccomend a company to de-ovalise the bearing housings on the rear arms? am located in oxford and now have 6 arms to do. some more desperately than others. have removed an abs one from mums estate, should i take the abs sensor off the arm to prevent damage? or will this kill it? it looks quite crusty round it.
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mat_fenwick
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Re: rear arm repair.

Post by mat_fenwick »

Is it actually ovalised where the bearing race sits, or just the seal? I've never done one where the actual bearing seat was damaged, but it's common for the rollers to drop out and damage where the seal sits.

If the latter then I degrease VERY thoroughly and use an epoxy like JB weld to fill the gap between seal and arm. I've used silicone sealant before, but that didn't last too long - the bearings failed within 50k miles. If it's where the race goes, you'd be best getting it filled with weld and then machined out again. Any decent machine shop should be able to do the work but you may need to give them a bearing race to work with.
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1993 1.9 TZD Turbo Estate
1996 3.9 V8 Discovery
1993 VW LT35 campervan
1985 Hyundai Stellar V8
2016 Hyundai iLoad
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Re: rear arm repair.

Post by really? »

chhers mat, havent actually hit the bearings out yet, i put a photo on facebook yesterday when i took the arm off, thats as far as i got. looks pretty bad. ill have to see how oval it is.
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mat_fenwick
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Re: rear arm repair.

Post by mat_fenwick »

Ah, I've seen the picture. That looks fairly typical - it doesn't take long once the bearing collapses for the arm itself to wear, but chances are the bearing seat may be OK. Welding would arguably be a better repair but will be a bugger to file back by hand...a perfect finish isn't so important where the seal fits as that will cope with some irregularities.
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1993 1.9 TZD Turbo Estate
1996 3.9 V8 Discovery
1993 VW LT35 campervan
1985 Hyundai Stellar V8
2016 Hyundai iLoad
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Thread Bear
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Re: rear arm repair.

Post by Thread Bear »

Paines over at Eynsham would be able to effect a repair but I would gain tears at the possible cost. Not had one apart recently enough to know if you could make an insert but from memory there is not a lot of material there. My old green car was botched with some epoxy ali, I think. It seemed to work OK but its not really engineering is it?

Elsewhere there is a thread about differing jollop folk lub this up with. Not made a decision myself but standard lub seems inadequate.
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work

'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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BXpert
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Re: rear arm repair.

Post by really? »

while im here, can rear strut gaitors still be bought? and if so from where and what part number? have got a split in it and it would be silly not to do something about it while its allart. chers.
citronut
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Re: rear arm repair.

Post by citronut »

an engineering company in Rye used to bore the rear arms out and sleeve them,

J H B Engineering
Unit 4a Jempsons Trading Estate
Rye, E SUSSEX TN31 7EL, United Kingdom
01797 226775

i belive they are the recon arms GSF used to sell


rear cylinder gaiter and clamp still showing as available from citroen

Part Number Description Quantity Price excl. VAT Price incl. VAT Total incl. VAT Selection
26140919 BOOT CLAMP 5.64 GBP 6.77 GBP 6.77 GBP

95577323 CYLINDER BOOT 8.06 GBP 9.67 GBP 9.67 GBP

regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special

no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)
Tinkley
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Re: rear arm repair.

Post by Tinkley »

Unusual to get the bearing surround out of round/worn. Normally the bearing fails internally and the creak and groan warns you!. Any half decent engineering shop should be able to sleeve the arm which is ductile cast iron unlike the XM which was aluminium and much more prone to serious damage.
Just give the engineering shop the bearing(s) and they can look up the clearance/interference data. Up to them how they seat the sleeve, they'll do whatever suits their machinery and the materials.
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Thread Bear
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Re: rear arm repair.

Post by Thread Bear »

My green estate was so squat it looked like a terror with diarrhoea. Yet Russ got an MOT like I used to. By knowing the tester. So with this as the only prob I got an MOT honour bound to fix it. It might be that Jabba saw this car in that condition when he first noticed me. Anyway the n/s was well into the meat of the swing arm. It was loose enough to have worn through two LHM pipes above! That became apparent in the middle of the suspension bearing job and a baptism of the green stuff. I repaired this lot but had to buy 5 pipes, how did I manage that, to get the right ones. This was a while ago and BX was a throw away ca, so minimal spend. Done that car was brilliant and never let me down till the turbo wore out at about 295k. It lived again over Lincolnshire with a 1.9 Pug turbo etc mod, but I think its gone now.
Miguel - 16 TRS Auto S, light blue, 43k miles - £450
Pluto - 14 E S, White, 105k Miles - in work
Egbert - 19 16v Gti, White, A/C & Leather, - Keeper
Walt - 17 TZD Turbo S, graphite, 70k miles, good op extras - Keeper
Scraper- 17 TZD Turbo E, blue, 208k miles - parts
Homer - 19 TXD E, Red, 189k miles - £250
Gary - 17 TZD Turbo E, 118k miles - in work

'87 Trooper, Borgwards, Saabs, MG ZB, Bellamy Trials, Fiat Jolly & Bianchina, Goggo Dart, Messerschmitt, Heinkel, Bubblecars
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