Clutch Change for a Novice

[Tim Leech]

Is it possible with basic tools, I have axle stands and trolley jack, a basic socket set and a dry warm garage with power.

Its a big step for me, Ive been quoted £180 to get it done at Bourne Citroen which sounds fair but its £180 I havent got spare.

Any Ideas or special tools.

Thanks

[Tinkley]

I've only done the 1.6 petrol but removed 2 of these lumps c/w box. Easy to do once box is off especially the Valeo one as they give you the centreing tool/mandrel.

The one tool I had to borrow apart from an engine hoist was a 35mm socket for the wheel nuts. Loosen these with the car on the ground and handbrake on hard. I had to use a 2 meter scaffold tube on the socket (1/2" drive) and put two wheel studs back in (as wheel still rotated) and a steel spike braced against them to get them to loosen. All the other connections and parts were OK with standard tools ie socket set/ring spanners/allen keys etc.

There is quite a bit of advice on the diesel variant (on the Forum) which uses the same BE3 gearbox (different ratios of course) and there seemed to be agreement, it is easier with whole lot out but doable leaving engine in place if freed to move and supported. The problem is getting the gearbox splined shaft aligned on reassembly. The more space you have to manoevre the box and align it the easier it should be. If it is incredibly tight mainly underneath, removing the lot would be easier. Basically if you have a ramp or a pit you should be able to do it. I only had supports and large wood blocks (cut tree sections) and it was very tight underneath with no pit. Mothmans' ramps or similar would be good, certainly better.

Remember to tape or cable tie the lever after putting the release bearing and arm into the box - it holds it all in the right place. Remove after assembled. As far as I can work out that applies to both ball and socket and lever arm assemblies. The 2 types have different release bearings so be prepared to hunt out the other one if you don't have a match, they are NOT interchangeable.

Obviously you will need new gearbox oil but you might get away with the old driveshaft seals. They are easy to change BTW. Try Nielsons (I think) for the Total BV80/90.

[JayW]

For a novice, with little experience, you're asking for a headache.

It isn't difficult by any means as clutch changes go, but that's based on a lot of experience of various cars, vans & trucks.

Particular lowlights are lack of space for withdrawing the box and especially getting it back in (to which there is a knack to reduce swearing tolerance), withdrawing & refitting the driveshaft intremediate bearing and undoing the hubnuts if their solid (if you're so inclined, i leave them in situ and release the bottom balljoint to withdraw the hub far enough for the shafts to clear).

Basic tools are mostly fine but you'll need a centering tool for the plate (or a trusty bit of dowel & gaffer tape like i've had in my toolbox for the past 10 years) and lots & Lots of strength & patience.

The HBOL would mostly serve you well although there are a number of ways to save time over it.

[Tim Leech]

Thanks for the advice chaps, worth considering. Unless anyone wants to have a pop at it for beer tokens!

[Thread Bear]

I am happy to play with spanners but for £180 my car would be at Bourne this time of year! Sounds a reasonable price, probably because they can do it with their eyes shut. Not only that, but you will get a report on all the bolluxed bits they found while they did it. Yeah, its better not to know 'innit! Likely to be more than £180.

However with money becoming a scarce commodity........Did I say my clutch slip is not any worse than 4,000 miles ago. Convinced the thing is not worn out but only unadjustable.

[KevR]

.Did I say my clutch slip is not any worse than 4,000 miles ago. Convinced the thing is not worn out but only unadjustable.

My clutch started to slip about three years and 36k ago - turned out to be the operating arm pivot having partially seized. Worked some oil down into it and worked it backwards ad forwards 'til it moved cleanly, and it's been fine ever since.

[Jaba]

Tim, its a time consuming and tricky job too due the space limitations, having to support the engine and dropping the box out underneath. I take the rad out for more clearance and remove the speedo adapter too as mentioned in the DIY pages.
The worst bit is raising the box back up into position and lining it up with the engine before sliding it into position.
Save up the money is my advice.

[MULLEY]

If you start doing this & you damage something, it'll only cost more to get fixed, likewise, if you get stuck, then how will you get the car to someone who will do it?? I'm all for giving it a go, but sometimes when the cost of the job is quite cheap, why take the risk, if it was summer then it probably would be worth a try, but in this weather, you'll regret ever trying tbh.

Try Shaune to see what he'll charge.

[Tim Leech]

Cheers Chaps, I have decided to let someone have a go for the reasons you above.

I am Shaun will be a bit cheaper than barry but actually getting him to do it is another thing!

[MULLEY]

Beg

[B-Hive]

Cheers Chaps, I have decided to let someone have a go for the reasons you above.

Good idea..

I have done pretty much everything mechanical on all sorts of cars but I stray away from east west engined clutches..It can get messy (gearbox oil etc) exhausting, frustrating and time consuming. The shop you send it to will most likely try to up-sell a flywheel skim, drive-shaft seal and also a rear end crankshaft seal..This rear seal replacement is a good idea actually.

Good luck

[rutter123]

fairly straight forward no special tools needed, i found on a diesel its best to remove the rad as the fdv can foul the rad when removing the box, little tip for refitting the box, use a sturdy block of wood or bar across the bulkhead and slam panel use a rachet strap with hooks thru the g/box lifting eye and lift it using the rachet, this will pull it up pretty much in line and save a lot of effing and jeffing, also helps if you remove the top engine mount, you can leave the o/s drive shaft in situ just remember to put it back in at same time of refitting the box. you can also use the rachet strap around the engine to aid lifting/lowering. caution around the hydraulic pipes as these can quite easily come dislodged when removing the gbox and trapped when refitting. use new driveshaft seals and ensure the thrust bearing is properly located, buy a quality clutch kit as cheap ones are rubbish as i found out, its a job you only want to do once. good luck should see it done in a day.

[Defender110]

Cheers Chaps, I have decided to let someone have a go for the reasons you above.

Very wise, I do feel you would have used considerably more than £180 worth of your own time on this job if you haven't done one before although if you never do one you will never know. If you have loads of spare time to do it slowly and methodically leaving it and coming back to it as when time allows then maybe but I'm sure you will keep thinking to yourself 'I could have had this done for £180'. IMHO you must always consider the value of your own time and what you could be doing with it with friends/family when making decisions like this.

[mat_fenwick]

IMHO you must always consider the value of your own time and what you could be doing with it with friends/family when making decisions like this.

Wise words indeed. FWIW, clutch and gearbox jobs on FWD cars are probably my least favourite jobs - heavy, awkward parts that have to be aligned precisely, with never quite enough space to do it!

[Brian]

I have as yet never had to change a clutch on a BX, but have on my Visa 17D.

A neat idea to aid aligning the drive shaft back into the clutch centre.

Use one of the gearbox bell housing bolts, obtain some threaded rod or a longer bolt same thread.
Make up 2 or 3 studs at least 3 times the length of the original bolt, grind off 2 bolt lengths of thread and taper the end.
Cut a screwdriver slot in the tapered end, (to aid inserting and removal).

Screw these into the engine side bell housing, you can then hang the gearbox on these, then jiggle to engage into the clutch centre.

Remove them and replace with correct bolts.