The Tatty Bus 1990 TZD Preservation not Cure

[bussell]

So I collected my new/old BX TZD last Sunday and have ever since been building my to list to preserve her - she is generally very solid but I thought I would publish progress to keep her going.

I have so far done a couple of minor fixes and ordered quite a few parts.

Done to date

Brake lights working again
Main beam working again
Boot lid gas struts replaced
Air filter replaced (came with one so thought I would chuck it in)
Fuel system cleaner added to first tank of fuel
Under washer bottles, cleaned - seam seal removed, rust treatment applied - Awaiting second coat and re-seal/paint

My to do list is a bit longer

Replace rear arm bearings - both sides (kit arrived yesterday)
Adjust exhaust so it doesn't vibrate on bumper
Rejuvenate tow bar
Strip and rust cure inner front wings (at some point I will do the other side too)
While exhaust is off, zip wheel underside of boot floor and rust treat/weld generally make good
Rub back all surface rust on sills, treat and re-paint
Oil and filter change (have filter)
Fuel filter change (have filter)
Clutch cable replace
Throttle cable replace
Flush LHM system and renew LHM
Replace glove box lid
Under body wax
Remove bumper and front wings and rust treat/repair
Full waxing of all cavities etc.
Fix front fog lights
Rear spheres??
Replacement drivers window mechanism (mine works but is jumping on the top inch - very noisy)
One dash bulb has blown (not sure how much this bothers me though)

If I am feeling really brave I might even see if I can get the sunroof to open - although the slide rails do look very rusty!


And eventually have her re-sprayed

If you have not fallen asleep looking at my list - perhaps let me know if you would do anything else while I am in these areas - I would prefer not to have to take the rear axle off the car, but no doubt I will see some rust there and feel I have to get in there!

[Defender110]

Remove the rear bumper too to rust treat the rear Xmember , also pay particular atention to the rear subframe mount areas around & just in from the rear of the sills including behind the spats. This area IMHO is the critical rust area of any BX and will be the final death nail of many if not sorted.

[bussell]

Remove the rear bumper too to rust treat the rear Xmember , also pay particular atention to the rear subframe mount areas around & just in from the rear of the sills including behind the spats. This area IMHO is the critical rust area of any BX and will be the final death nail of many if not sorted.

Thanks for the advice I will definitely do that while I'm underneath - thankfully I have access to a ramp!

[Tim Leech]

Glad your doing a blog, keep up the good work.

[bussell]

So I have been underneath with a wire brush on an exploratory mission. So I put her up above the pit and started from the back of the boot floor to the back of the sills. Some of the seams are starting to let go but all pretty solid, so hydrate 80 then several times and ready for seam seal etc.

my rear spheres look rusty and the rear seems to sink a bit quicker when turned off so i have ordered a pair.

de rusted the top of the screen.

Question, when underneath the car i noticed a round device, part of the suspension system on the seat box in front of the rear axle. This is seeping LHM, what is it so I can get another?

next weekend rear arm bearings.

[MULLEY]

I'm guessing that its the height corrector that you're descibing? It has a rubber surround at each end?

[RxBX]

.......................
Question, when underneath the car i noticed a round device, part of the suspension system on the seat box in front of the rear axle. This is seeping LHM, what is it so I can get another?

next weekend rear arm bearings.

Hi Ed,
That will be the Rear Height Corrector (I may have a S/H one available, but would need to check first)



/\ image, courtesy 'Des Smith's' St.Tropez Restoration Blog

.

[mat_fenwick]

You can get a rebuild kit for around £20, and they are simple to strip. Personally if the car is in regular use I would refurb a spare unit (for peace of mind) and simply swap them over - maybe buying another kit to overhaul the original when it comes off. The job is always more enjoyable if you can do it at leisure.

[bussell]

.......................
Question, when underneath the car i noticed a round device, part of the suspension system on the seat box in front of the rear axle. This is seeping LHM, what is it so I can get another?

next weekend rear arm bearings.

Hi Ed,
That will be the Rear Height Corrector (I may have a S/H one available, but would need to check first)



/\ image, courtesy 'Des Smith's' St.Tropez Restoration Blog

.

Thanks for the replies/advice - yes that is what I was looking at (Rear Height Corrector), although the one in the picture is dry and mine is not! - could that be the reason that the rear of the car sinks quicker than the front when I leave it?

Yes please to RxBx, if you have a good spare I would be interested, perhaps PM me if you have one and we can sort it out - thanks for the light stalk by the way - much better in the lanes at night with main beam

That rear axle looks good, - how difficult is it to remove it from the car completely to restore it - and of course to rust proof the body where the axle mounts etc? I have done a Peugeot 206 rear beam change - and it looks essentially similar - only lots more plumbing on the BX any advice appreciated (I expect there is a how to guide in the technical section).

Unfortunately I am being borrowed this weekend to weld up a Picasso sill and get an MG running so the Tatty Bus will have to wait for rear suspension bearings.

Ed

[Defender110]

the Tatty Bus will have to wait
Ed

I see you've adopted Tim's christening of your bus

[bussell]

the Tatty Bus will have to wait
Ed

I see you've adopted Tim's christening of your bus

I have adopted Tim's name for her - I can't think of a name right now and I thought it was quite funny

[citsncycles]

Ah Picasso sills - has it failed about a foot or so back from the front end of the sill by any chance?

Dropping the rear subframe is fairly easy, but be prepared to have to change some pipework while you're at it. The front to rear pipes run over the top of the passenger side rear arm and the subframe at that point, and can rust away there unseen. I've also known pipe ends to seize into the various components under there. More important than cleaning up and painting the subframe is the protection of the subframe mounting point on the shell, particularly the ones by the rear of the sill. These are accessed from above by removing the plastic trim either side of the back seat, and rust oin this area has killed many BX's.

[Tim Leech]

the Tatty Bus will have to wait
Ed

I see you've adopted Tim's christening of your bus

I have adopted Tim's name for her - I can't think of a name right now and I thought it was quite funny

My RD was probably just as tatty and although it now drives well its still rather fugly.

[citsncycles]

I bet they both look better than Timex!

[bussell]

Ah Picasso sills - has it failed about a foot or so back from the front end of the sill by any chance?

Dropping the rear subframe is fairly easy, but be prepared to have to change some pipework while you're at it. The front to rear pipes run over the top of the passenger side rear arm and the subframe at that point, and can rust away there unseen. I've also known pipe ends to seize into the various components under there. More important than cleaning up and painting the subframe is the protection of the subframe mounting point on the shell, particularly the ones by the rear of the sill. These are accessed from above by removing the plastic trim either side of the back seat, and rust oin this area has killed many BX's.

You are right about the sills on the Picasso, although on inspection it was much worse than we thought - a two foot plate was added to the sill in the end - yikes.

Thanks for the tips - I will take it off then since it seems a good idea if this is an area that kills them.

Update to follow @-)