4x4 clutch

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barry badger
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4x4 clutch

Post by barry badger » Thu Jul 17, 2014 5:14 pm

I'm debating whether to go to the national this sunday and if so whether to do the clutch on the 4x4 before i go? It really is on its last legs now!

How long does it take to do the clutch on a 4x4?
How do i go about it? does the crossmember need to come off?
Can the transfer box be supported and moved to one side with the propshaft still connected?
The felt seal/gasket between the gearbox and transfer box is missing , where will i get felt or equivalent to make one from?

The clutch i've ordered for tomorrow is an luk one, part no 620114800 with a 200mm centre plate, is this the right one?

I've only got tomorrow evening and saturday afternoon/evening available to me so i'm trying to gauge if that's enough time.
1993 tzd estate, on sorn
1992 tzd estate, slowly being raided for parts
1992 txd estate, "doom blue" on the road
1991 4x4 estate, on the road

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David
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Re: 4x4 clutch

Post by David » Sat Jul 19, 2014 2:07 am

It all depends on one question - Is the bolt in the rear of the gearbox, the one between the engine & the transfer box? (look up behind the sump & you'll see it) If so can you get it out? If the bolt is missing or you can get it out then it will be almost as easy as doing a normal 2wd car, just simply pull the gearbox off leaving the propshaft, wires & right front drive shaft connected.

On mine I have left it out so its quite easy to get apart. When I removed the engine/ gearbox/ transfer box from the scrap car I couldn't get them to come out past the steering rack, anti roll bar & subframe, so in the end I had to cut the cars' front off. However if you undo the steering rack bolts it might move out of the way enough, otherwise you might have to loosen or even remove the subframe. That is if you end up having to remove the full assembly.


How long does it take to do the clutch on a 4x4? On mine I can have the gearbox out in just over 2 hours, but as I've already said the rear bolt has been left out.


Can the transfer box be supported and moved to one side with the propshaft still connected? Assuming you don't have to go down the difficult route of removing everything mentioned above then yes, The transfer box is bolted directly to the back of the engine, so it will hold in place while the gearbox is off.

The felt seal/gasket between the gearbox and transfer box is missing , where will i get felt or equivalent to make one from? I just put instant gasket around where the splines connect between the gearbox/ transfer box after putting lots of oil & grease on the splines. Otherwise cereal boxes make good small gaskets.

Some other small things to remember;

- The diff lock cable is originally routed through a hole in the gearbox case, so you'll need to unhook it from the transfer box to avoid damaging anything. Make sure the diff lock is off before you start work.

- The left front drive shaft is long & awkward to get out. You'll need to undo the drop link on the left side so the shaft will pass it & come out.

- There are about 5 bolts between the gearbox & transfer box to remove, they are at the back & difficult to get to, If you support it from underneath & undo the gearbox mounting, then you can pull the engine forward & get your tools in to undo them. Originally it has allen key bolts in them

- There are wires, the speedo cable & the dipstick tube connected to the transfer box. If you just remove the gearbox you don't have to worry about these. But if the lot needs to come out then the wires & cable will need disconnecting & the tube might need a new seal upon reassembly.

Hopefully someone else will elaborate on anything I have missed or not explained brilliantly...

Hope that helps & Good luck.
1992 Citroën BX 1.9 Diesel Meteor 4x4 - The Project.

1992 Citroën BX 1.9 TXD (with GTI engine; Mulleys old car) - Parts car.

2004 Citroën Xsara Desire. (Now gone).

2011 Ford Focus Zetec - Daily Driver. (Absolute bone shaker).

citronut
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Re: 4x4 clutch

Post by citronut » Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:43 am

here is price and part No.'s from citroen for a petrol 4X4

Part Number Description Quantity Price excl. VAT Price incl. VAT Total incl. VAT Selection
00002004A1 CLUTCH MECHANIM 149.65 GBP 179.58 GBP 179.58 GBP

00002055F3 CLUTCH PLATE 99.54 GBP 119.45 GBP 119.45 GBP

they do not show it as one kit and the above does not include the thrust bearing

and for a diesel

Part Number Description Quantity Price excl. VAT Price incl. VAT Total incl. VAT Selection
0000200475 CLUTCH MECHANIM 90.98 GBP 109.18 GBP 109.18 GBP

00002055CZ CLUTCH PLATE 133.46 GBP 160.15 GBP 160.15 GBP

regards malcolm
curent ride
K reg BX 17TD TZD est
also own
K reg D special

no longer have
H reg CX saffari 2.5 TRI (now gone to Malaysia)
R reg xantia 1.9TD est (gone to meet its maker)

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barry badger
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Re: 4x4 clutch

Post by barry badger » Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:35 pm

Thank you both for your advice/input, I didn't end up going to the national in the end. I haven't done my clutch yet but i'm sure it would have made it as long as there was no heavy acceleration. The reason I didn't go was that I didn't particularly want to see/smell a beautiful pig being roasted on a spit. I can tolerate the usual burger stalls etc but not that.
I've had a look under mine to size the job up. The bolt behind the transfer box is fitted in mine so there are no short cuts. The only way i can see of doing it is to remove the crossmember, and then it's a case of do i take the whole lot out or try and get the gearbox off in situ.
I will definitely start it in the next couple of weeks, I do so enjoy driving this car but the clutch is spoiling it at the moment.
1993 tzd estate, on sorn
1992 tzd estate, slowly being raided for parts
1992 txd estate, "doom blue" on the road
1991 4x4 estate, on the road