The old rattle and clonk

BX Tech talk
kiwi
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The old rattle and clonk

Post by kiwi » Sat Aug 30, 2014 9:20 pm

I am assuming drop links? As the main cause of that distinctive rattle and clunk going over bumps etc.

Are they still available? And how easy are they to replace? Both the petrol BXs that not used much these days are starting to rattle a bit puts the missus off driving them and makes my passengers a bit nervy....lol
1991 BX19 TZS 04/01/91 (Deceased)
1990 BX19 TRS 27/10/89 (Reborn)
1992 BX19 TXD (Ex UK - K 744 SDF) 15/06/92
1990 BX19 TZS Auto 06/11/1989
1992 BX TZD Turbo Estate (Ex UK) 1/07/91

Mothman

Re: The old rattle and clonk

Post by Mothman » Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:12 pm

They are easy to replace bud, if you use a grinder to cut them off as o found doing Gloria's earlier in the year. I just cut the top of the nut and that was it.

Andy

Tinkley
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Re: The old rattle and clonk

Post by Tinkley » Sun Aug 31, 2014 8:01 am

I would think your analysis is spot on - Droplinks. My old Athena even passed an MOT with them clonking!. Over here about 40 quid a pair, but watch the lengths, they seem to differ and may need the height corrector control on the anti roll bar altering to get similar ride height. Unlikely to get a catastrophic failure unless truly gone. Mothman is right about grinding the top part of them off if they refuse to be undone. Bottom nut will come off OK, just the top thread seems to get corroded. Worth wire brushing the thread before attempting to undo the top one which might play ball or not. I fitted a pair of First Line brand ones, these are available through Euro Carparts and AEP and possibly others over here.

Also worth checking the state of the wishbone bushes too. They just seem to perish and don't really clonk but not too hard to change and cheap. You will certainly notice the extra 'tightness' of changing them if they do need doing.

KevR
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Re: The old rattle and clonk

Post by KevR » Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:49 am

You can often confirm that it's drop links by getting a large friend to bounce the front corner of the car repeatedly until you find the right frequency to make it clunk, then just reach under and grab the drop link to see if the clunk stops. Did this last week - no noticeable play in the link when jacked up (because the play's held at bay by the ARB) but this test confirmed it was definitely a knackered drop link. Just ordered a pair from Evilbay - about 20 quid a pair so they're probably not going to last long....
I agree about the lengths - a while back I changed one and the handling went to cock - always trying to steer into the ditch. Turned out the replacement link was about 1cm longer than the original.... Now I always change them in pairs!
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!

rutter123
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Re: The old rattle and clonk

Post by rutter123 » Sun Aug 31, 2014 10:25 am

Bottom ball joint wear can determine the same clonk, worth checking too.
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