Lead loading/body solder filling

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KevR
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Lead loading/body solder filling

Post by KevR » Wed Jun 24, 2015 1:05 pm

Not specifically BX, but has anyone got experience of this? I've got loads of repairs to do to the H van and AZU which will mean filling seams etc and I really don't like modern fillers for that - they always crack. So I fancied a go at proper old-fashioned lead-loading. I'm getting a basic kit from Frosts, but wondered if anyone has any advice, and/or good sources for consumables at a later date.
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!

Tinkley
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Re: Lead loading/body solder filling

Post by Tinkley » Thu Jun 25, 2015 5:44 am

I've had it done to a m/cycle tank circa 1979, and it has remained good ever since. Despite the weight it seems more firmly affixed to the steel. Nowadays I might prefer an epoxy based set of fillers as that adheres a lot better than polyester resin based fillers. If you go this other route check what can be one with Gurit (SP System)and West System amongst others, they are very good for marine use. I use them on boats and would trust them on steel, so some of my 'non structural' panel repairs are in epoxy/glass/carbon.

KevR
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Re: Lead loading/body solder filling

Post by KevR » Thu Jun 25, 2015 10:48 am

Thanks for that. I'll look into those products. I'm specifically interested in the lead option for the H van in particular because there are lots of thin panels that flex a lot, so if you've only got a thin skim of filler hiding a seam where you've repaired a panel, it always, always cracks. Also, the lead will flow into the seam, helping the joint but also hopefully staving off the rust for a bit longer.
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!

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Re: Lead loading/body solder filling

Post by Tinkley » Fri Jun 26, 2015 8:44 am

Two other tips Kev. Firstly if you 'reinforce' a panel, use a woven roving or woven cloth NOT a chopped strand mat (CSM), and check it is suitable for epoxy. Some CSM products have a binder for polyester only and possibly some woven roving. Ask the supplier. The roving is excellent at doing curvature, including 3 dimensional, whereas the woven cloth is harder to wet out and prefers 2D curvature.

The other one is do not put carbon cloth/tape directly onto steel, you will get corrosion problems. It's OK if you put a layer of glass there first as an 'isolator'. As you might imagine steel and 'free' carbon can create a moderate galvanic reaction. There has been quite a bit of work done on this for aircraft and high end race cars. There is/was a good thread somewhere on a US Porshe site, I just happened to find when looking for evidence of compatibility of these materials ie steel and carbon etc.

For laying down resin and cloth, a mini gloss roller cut in half works well and a small say 1" brush. Get lots of Acetone say a 5ltr container. It's the only stuff that cleans up both epoxy and polyester. Also pretty good for cleaning a surface prior to paint as it has less of a film left when it dries. Better than thinners, closer to alcohol.

If you get a sweet layer down on clean steel and an overcoat of resin it should sand down and paint as if it was the original panel. Personally I use a 2k paint system over the top with an epoxy primer on any bare steel and over the glass too. This is about as durable as you can get especially without access to a full on spray shop.

KevR
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Re: Lead loading/body solder filling

Post by KevR » Fri Jun 26, 2015 8:52 am

Thanks for that - lots to think about!
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!

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Re: Lead loading/body solder filling

Post by mds141 » Fri Jun 26, 2015 10:24 pm

Might be worthwhile looking on some U.S. custom car sites Kev. After all, the good 'ol U.S. Of A is the spiritual home of the 'lead sled'.
Mark Smith

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KevR
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Re: Lead loading/body solder filling

Post by KevR » Sat Jun 27, 2015 8:35 am

Yes, I've been looking all over and there is a lot more info the other side of the pond - never hurts to ask closer to home though!
1990 BX TZD Estate ('the grey one', 1991 BX TZD Estate ('the white one'), 1982 2CV6 Charleston (in bits), 1972 AZU Serie B (2CV van), 1974 HY72 Camper, 1990 Land Rover 110 diesel LWB, 1957 Mobylette AV76, 1992 Ducati 400SS, 1966 VW Beetle, 1990 Mazda MX-5, 1996 Peugeot 106D, 1974 JCB 2D MkII, 1997 BMW R1100RS, 1987 Suzuki GSX-R1100, 1978 Honda CX500A, 1965 Motobecane Cady, 1988 Honda Bros/Africa Twin, 1963 Massey Ferguson 825, and a lot of bicycles!