Intermediate driveshaft bearing

[rutter123]

Needs replacing, how to remove the old one as there is a steel collar that needs to come off to get the bearing off the shaft?

[Tinkley]

I've done this before, but I remember putting an agle grinder through the outer part of the bearing. Assumming you can get the shaft to a vice, I think I just drove the bearing off after that with a drift. By removing the outer part of the bearing it made access to the inner part easier. I seem to remember it needed a few fairly sharp blows angled just right to get it to move. I think the 'collar' is the stop for the bearing.
Then it just needs light cleaning of the inner shaft face, prior to tapping the new 6006RS down, which I did with wooden blocks on the inner part of the race. Darn sight easier getting the new one on than the old one off!.

I have a spare o/s drive shaft with new CV bellows but a knackered new bearing (which I could easily change). Think the bearing got damaged in transit, but your welcome to it if you need it, surplus to requirements so for sale.

[rutter123]

Hi Mr Tinkley thanx for the advice, i guessed that would be the way, i think i will grind the collar off as i too have a few old o/s shafts here which im sure i can get 1 of the collars off, if i heat the collar it should come off a little easier i would suspect, i have a new bearing from Malcolm Lockwood.

[Tinkley]

Aaargh, don't drive off the collar - it is the stop for the bearing! It seems to be a heat shrunk ring that is the position stop to tap the bearing up to. The bearing itself is driven away from the collar. I'm absolutely sure I never moved the collar, the problem was getting something to hit the inner bearing race and move it away, as it is only a small overlap. I have been known to use (good) wood chisels before now to get taper roller head races off front yokes on m/cycles as there is NO access to underneath the bearing. However on the BX driveshaft this was not necessary, only a narrow cold chisel, I seem to recall. The gap is very small though, which is why it seems that the collar may have to be removed. Worth grinding a bit of steel to fit, or a narrow punch. BTW, I do resharpen the wood chisels properly, decent Marples ones too. Not had too much actual chipping though. If you do use a chisel to get it started, make sure it is sharp and gently work round the race, until it starts to move.

I just can't remember if I had to use the chisel method on that intermediate bearing, if I did it worked. I do remember trying to work out how to get the sod away from the collar, and belting the outer simply destroyed the bearing. One other way is to angle grind the inner race itself off. In fact I may have done a combination of thinning the race locally and the chisel mode. When the steel of the race is very very thin (not through to shaft) it will have a little more give when you try and wedge it down away from the collar. Also possible to grind 'ledges' on the outside of the inner race to get a cold chisel to punch it away.

Mat Fenwick has done exactly the same as I've done before now.

The bearing wil be tight because it will have slightly rusted on the shaft. However once you start it, it is easy. I lapped the shaft with 800/1200 grit wet and dry and lubricated with oil before tapping the new one on - it slipped on easily with a few taps on a small wooden drift on the inner race.

If you have oxy acetelyne you might get the collar off but this time you be heating the shaft too, whereas the manufacture would have called for a 'cold' shaft and a 'hot' ring. Bit like seating valve guides. The bearing is a standard one available from any half decent bearing factor, no special class required - unlike roller crankcase bearing!.

[rutter123]

For the sake of £25 i have taken the driveshaft to a local motor engineer who have done the bearing for me and saved me time and hassle, this is the only job i have not done myself so didnt mind shelling out this time. I dont know and didnt see how they did but a good job nonetheless. I gave them an old driveshaft with a collar on and this has been used so i suspect some heat was used to remove it .

[Tinkley]

Glad you got it sorted OK. Whenever I've come across these semi blind fitted bearings ie no easy access to the inner race, I find some creative thinking is needed to get the s*** off....
So far, I seem to have been pretty successful. However it's also good to recognise when it's better to get a pro with the right kit to do it. Good work, and good luck with the rest of the rebuild.

[rutter123]

Nearly there now eng/box back in and all connected up, just the driveshafts, front suspension bits, wheel bearings, front calipers to do, so far so good.