subframe mounting area

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subframe mounting area

Post by tim »

Well, it's finally happened. The trusty White One (19TXD estate) has been given the waggy finger by the MOT guy due to rust around the subframe mounting points. Yes, they all do it eventually.... so I have booked her in for a weld-up. Only the offside got the 'finger' but as most of the work is stripping out stuff, I'm having both sides done at the same time. Probably going to be about £400, but such is life. I could save a tad by stripping out at home then getting a welder in but the local garage has got a full range of lifts, subframe support stands, fire extinguishers contest really.
So.... input from y'all? I am advised that the subframe can be swung aside/down without disconnecting the hydraulics, though as I repiped the whole plot four years ago everything would come undone OK if it came to it. The mounting holes themselves are not too shaky so there shouldn't be a need to redrill them (I read some stuff on the forum about what happens if this is screwed up!). So any advice would be gratefully received.

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Re: subframe mounting area

Post by rutter123 »

The rear subframe can be dropped sufficient enough to get a welder in (tho i found getting the grinder in more of an issue) only a few inches is enough, as for the pipes if you have replaced with cupra nickel there should be enough "flex" in them to let the subframe be dropped slightly, if they are unclipped from underside I have done this job myself on the t/d years ago, not the easiest or tidiest bit of welding but good enough to get it through the re-test. Still ok 9 years later yet the nearside is still unusually solid with no welding. I would stipulate to the garage that if any damage is caused to any pipework they will be responsible for repairing/ replacing it.
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Re: subframe mounting area

Post by Kitch »

Depends on whether you want it patched up for MoT, or whether you want a proper job.

Patch up for MoT can be done by dropping the axle and plating the area. £300-£400 I would think, as it's still fairly involved. Fuel tank needs to come out to get access usually.

To do a proper job, the subframe mounts/jacking point plates need removing, and the affected area cutting out and rebuilding from scratch. It's subframe off (though to be honest, the difference between subframe dropped and subframe off isn't really that much work), fuel tank out and strip the rear end down. I've had to do it to the GT in my blog. Cost? Really depends how bad it is, but I could have easily charged £1500-£2000 for what I did to my Dad's GT, though it was a particularly bad case and I went to town with the painting afterwards.
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