A plea for help!

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Tue May 16, 2006 12:14 am

Rear arm bearings:

My 16v needs the O/S doing and the GT I just picked up needs the pair doing.
I need to learn how to do this....I'm asking to find out if there is anyone local who is either doing a job on their own car or would do one of mine to show me how its done, in return for beer, tea, cakes, cash or a blat around in the 16v

Alternatively I'll drive it out of the area if someone is willing.

I'm pretty sure I could do it once I've learned it, I've done much more intense jobs but I'd like to see how its done right!

Cheers

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Tue May 16, 2006 12:33 am

Kitch.

As it happens, I'm about 50-ish miles from you, and my parents live about 6 miles from you.

I'd be happy to show/help you do your arms, either here, or at yours (do you have garage/off road?)

It's a straightforward job, but it does help to have a big bench vice to hold the arm in while you beat the old bearings out, and a large selection of sockets/drifts to get the new ones in.

Vanny (the lucky git) has the correct punch/drift which fits these bearings perfectly, but it's a fairly easy job even without this tool.

I'd also like to see this GT and compare the trim level and stuff with the digit (they're similar, but not identical)

ed4ferrets · Post by **ed4ferrets** » Tue May 16, 2006 11:47 am

I you spot a fly on the wall please DO NOT SWAT it, that will be me checking out the procedure

I've been told it's easy enough but for some reason dread the idea of tackling it, as I will have to soon enough......... perhaps the lack of facilities has something to do with it

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Tue May 16, 2006 11:58 am

Well, if we do this, we'll take a whole stack of photo's and put them up on here.

Gareth Wales · Post by **Gareth Wales** » Tue May 16, 2006 4:35 pm

AlanS gives a very satisfying account of how to do this - complete with sound-effects of the CRAAAACKING of rust-bound nuts. If you ask him nicely I'm sure he'll send you his guidance.

Vanny · Post by **Vanny** » Tue May 16, 2006 4:52 pm

snapping of the inner races is the most fun bit! though now i have the correct instructions it not so much fun any more

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Tue May 16, 2006 6:10 pm

Thanks all.

David that sound ideal, I met up with Chris (madog) in Bristol who had literally just got back from yours....I assumed you were miles up north for some reason!

We could make it a bit of a club event! Either here or at yours I don't mind. As I said, the 16v needs one doing and the GT is very creaky....but the wheels aren't toed in too badly.

Just let me know when and where matey

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Tue May 16, 2006 9:03 pm

This is worth having a look at if just for the photos as it pretty well says it as it is.

http://members.fortunecity.com/werkplaa ... agers.html#

Setting pre-load on completion is not all that complicated, but Haynes tends to make it sound like a major operation on some models.
Incidentally, the wheels leaning in isn't always a symptom. On my 16V they were dead straight but were actually moving to & fro like steering wheels which explained the massive torque steer I used to have.

Alan S

tim leech · Post by **tim leech** » Tue May 16, 2006 9:42 pm

Maybe mine need doing as one of my wheels is rubbing, Ive had a look underneath tho and its not good! Rot a plenty

citroen7 · Post by **citroen7** » Wed May 17, 2006 3:27 pm

hi tim
i am the new boy on the block but have had lots of help from alans and anders in years gone by!!
this job is not difficult just requires patience i downloaded some excellent stuff from a japanese site . Iwill dig it out tonight and pass it on
Regards Robin.

Oscar · Post by **Oscar** » Wed May 17, 2006 5:45 pm

Can it be done without big vices and huge hammers? I have the parts but not the vices etc and I am unwilling to start improvising given the way I stuffed up reconditioning the pinion valve.

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Wed May 17, 2006 6:02 pm

I'd say it could indeed be done without the use of a big vice, but the use of a big hammer to get the old bearings out is fairly essential.

Putting the new ones in can be done with long bolts and lengths of tube, but getting the old ones out requires some big bashes with a big hammer.

The other thing you need is the ability to jack the back of the car up good and high, as you need to be able to get your entire upper body under the car to gain access.

Kitch... I'll PM you in a mo.

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Wed May 17, 2006 8:12 pm

Best piece of improvised equipment I found was a guy who had taken a socket, turned it down in a lathe until it was a neat fit through the arm and simply knocked one of the outer races out in about 3 seconds flat. He used a gadget he made years ago to first remove the other outer cone, namely a thing that looked like a small tyre lever with a lip on it.
The most common way is to either hit it with the welder or weld a washer into it, which then usually allows it to just fall out due to expansion.

Alan S

ellevie · Post by **ellevie** » Wed May 17, 2006 8:47 pm

AlanS wrote: Setting pre-load on completion is not all that complicated,...

Hi Alan,
I would be interested to hear more about your method of setting "pre-load" on the bearings.
Ellevie

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Wed May 17, 2006 11:08 pm

Dont think it would ever be necessary to set the preload. Depends if you see any adjustment shims falling down on disassembly - or sticking inside the subframe.

When all bits are re-assembled with new parts - then before you fit pipes and ARB check :
That the arm just falls down by its own weight - ideally should in fact stick that much it barely needs a helping finger to fall down. If its dangling loose you need to shim up the pre-load.

Another tip worth noting :
the arm may be a rusty and frayed mess where the bearing and the seal is located. Dont worry as long as there is enough original bore left to hold the bearing race securely in the bottom of the bore.
The last thing you do is to fit the new seal and this will most likely not fill out the bore in the arm. Simply fill the gap with sealant or body filler. You only need to seal off the seal itself to stop water and dirt ingress. You dont need to have a solid wall in the bore right at this location.