My first arm bearing

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Ian_Fearn
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My first arm bearing

Post by Ian_Fearn »

I'm so proud of myself, the first time i looked into getting a BX a few years back i was warned about rear arm bearing wear and the huge cost of replacement.

Well tonight in 3 and a half hours i've managed to sucessfully change the passenger side rear arm bearing on the GTi auto.

The old one was absolutely shot which now makes me wonder what the other side is like.

The outer bearing race as always was a stuck solid but once the plastic inner shield was removed i ground down the old main arm bolt to a point and used that to batter it out.

I wouldn't say it needs any specialist tools but access to a vice and the ability to grind down the old bolt i'd say makes the job a damn sight easier.

I reckon i could do the other side in 2 hours no probs.
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velosolex50
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Post by velosolex50 »

well done, its a fairly horrible job & it usually takes me a lot longer.( But I reckon its less hassle than the octopus which rates as one of my least favourite ways to spend saturdays......)

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Vanny
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Post by Vanny »

need some practice there Ian, they can be done in around 40mins a side without problems, and i suspect then can be done faster than that if you have preped donnor arms

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Ian_Fearn
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Post by Ian_Fearn »

I reckon 2 hours without rushing or cutting corners is about right.

I spent some some whilst i was under there waxoyling hydraulic pipes and scraping some rust away so it took a little longer.

Next job looks like the octopus then (i dont need to do it but it sounds more challenging!)

Is there a big octopus and small octopus or just the one?
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Vanny
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Post by Vanny »

both big and little, the little one only has about 3 pipes though!


Its decidedly none too difficult, there are some fidly bits made worse by loads of crap that accumulates on the pipes, but wizz the drive shaft out and its not too hard at all!

Last one on a working car took me about 3 hours in a car park with limited tools, so non too difficult!

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Vanny
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Post by Vanny »

both big and little, the little one only has about 3 pipes though!


Its decidedly none too difficult, there are some fidly bits made worse by loads of crap that accumulates on the pipes, but wizz the drive shaft out and its not too hard at all!

Last one on a working car took me about 3 hours in a car park with limited tools, so non too difficult!

tim leech

Post by tim leech »

Ian do you want to do my 16v now then mate as to assist with your learning curve of course :D

I will of course cross your palm with folding paper with pretty pictures of the Queen on it!

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Post by ellevie »

Nice one Ian ! It gives you a good feeling doesn't it -- it certainly brings you closer to your BX. Unless the other arm has been done sometime in the past, it will also need to be done if it's anything like mine. Both of mine were really bad but fortunately there was no damage to the arms. It makes you wonder just how long failed bearings have to be still in there before the arms get damaged. I'm thinking of changing a strut as my next job as I can't seem to make one of them stop creaking, even with liberal doses of LHM.
David

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Ian_Fearn
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Post by Ian_Fearn »

The service history of the car shows that one was changed before but if you believe the reciept it was the one i've just changed.

The other side isnt leaning or clonking so there doesnt seem much point changing it just yet.

I've got a TZD Turbo to get back on the road now 8)

I've done struts, i'd say its a far less difficult job than the rear arm bearing.
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Philip Chidlow
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

I think the chap who did it made a mistake - as it was the offside, that is, driver's side arm bearing that was done. Or at least was supposed to have been done!
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Ian_Fearn
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Post by Ian_Fearn »

I thought it might have been Phil.

On the receipt it says N/S but O/S has been crossed out.

That was way back in 2001 though.
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Post by ellevie »

Providing the brake line leading into the caliper is in good condition, I would be tempted to take the arm off and have a look. Now that you have the experience it should be easy. Even if the brake line looks poor and you don't want to risk breaking it, it still might be worth taking the wheel off, depressurizing the system, and unscrewing the torsion bar from the arm in question, and then seeing if the arm moves up and down freely and smoothly --- if doesn't then you know there's a problem. If you do take it off, and it looks ok, then at least you will be able to regrease the bearings.

I'm glad to hear the strut is an easy job. I'll probably take a strut off my other BX for diagnostic purposes. I've also got a couple of rear spheres to go in if needed. I'm looking forward to getting the suspension back to its former glory.
David

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Ian_Fearn
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Post by Ian_Fearn »

I've just been over my new TZD and seen the strut return pipes have been cut off.

The struts are very sticky but i've got 2 brand new ones ready to fit.
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Post by ellevie »

Two brand new ones ! That must have cost a fortune.
David

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Post by Ian_Fearn »

If i told you i'd bought 2 for £5 would you be jealous???
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