Sorry for disturbing, dear Forum.
My old BX19TD needs new brake valve. Local dealers ask too much (Murmansk, Russia). Otherwise I have some own effective delivery schemes in Europe.
Could you please advise some hydraulics supplier in UK (or somewhere else around) who can offer reasonable price?
Thanks in advance.
New brake valve needed
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I'm fairly certain that the valve is the one bit which is not at fault.
It sounds as though the accumulator sphere is defective. To test start the car, let it get to normal height and idle there for a couple of minutes. Turn off the engine and sit in the boot. The car should drop by 150mm or so then after 30 seconds - rise to its original height. If it does not - suspect the accumulator.
Noises apparently from the brake valve are a sign of gas (either air or from a sphere) in the system. The only place air can get in is the reservoir - pump hose and its usually the ends which are not clipped properly or have been damaged when removed and re-fitted. The pipe itself can be replaced for diagnostic purposes only with a section of clean garden hose.
Sometimes you can see air bubbles (lots of them) in the reservoir or a green milk like emulsion in there.
It sounds as though the accumulator sphere is defective. To test start the car, let it get to normal height and idle there for a couple of minutes. Turn off the engine and sit in the boot. The car should drop by 150mm or so then after 30 seconds - rise to its original height. If it does not - suspect the accumulator.
Noises apparently from the brake valve are a sign of gas (either air or from a sphere) in the system. The only place air can get in is the reservoir - pump hose and its usually the ends which are not clipped properly or have been damaged when removed and re-fitted. The pipe itself can be replaced for diagnostic purposes only with a section of clean garden hose.
Sometimes you can see air bubbles (lots of them) in the reservoir or a green milk like emulsion in there.
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Hi Dmitry,Dmitry wrote:The rear of a car sinks too fast - I think due to sufficient internal valve leakage.
how fast is "too fast"?
![Cool 8)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
Our BX sinks down on the rear in about 2 - 4 hours. Surely, due to a worn valve. But this problem is only cosmetical, if it sinks within a certain time, let's say within an hour or so, that's OK for a car with old valves. It has no technical implications.
The brake pedal always causes a noise when pressed down. Actually, I don't hear it but it's a common source of confusion for people when they are new to Citroën cars.
It is only a small "pscchtt" or it is something different?
The "switches to load - too often" are those clicks or clacks you are hearing when the car is idling.
This is "almost always" a worn accumulator sphere. I don't know if you want to do it yourself but it's fairly easy with the appropriate instructions. Most important is not to use too much force when putting the sphere on - only by hand - as it gets more tightened when the hydraulic system is under pressure.
BX Leader 19 Diesel - 1986
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Sinking speed is not important - but is affected by the condition of the rear height corrector, and also the accumulator sphere - which will top it up as the car sinks and the height corrector opens. The rear cylinders may also leak a bit but this is not common.
The regulator shoud tick at 30 seconds + with a good sphere and the rest of the system in good condition. The condition of the non-return valve on the accumulator face of the regulator will also affect things - and the good news is that you can re-seat it for free.
Its a ball bearing valve held in place by the flat plate you see when you take the accumulator sphere off. To re-seat it - remove the plate (1 bolt) and collect the ball (which will drop out easily) Stick the ball back in its hole with a dab of grease and tap it smartly ONCE only with a brass punch, then re-assemble.
You must use a brass ended punch - not steel - which may put a flat on the ball and prevent it sealing. You must only hit it once - more than once will make another seat for every blow, and many seats partially overlapping will be as bad or worse than what you started with.
I have done my TD BX one with the regulator in the car, from underneath. The result is a ticking interval so long that I loose interest in timing it.
The regulator shoud tick at 30 seconds + with a good sphere and the rest of the system in good condition. The condition of the non-return valve on the accumulator face of the regulator will also affect things - and the good news is that you can re-seat it for free.
Its a ball bearing valve held in place by the flat plate you see when you take the accumulator sphere off. To re-seat it - remove the plate (1 bolt) and collect the ball (which will drop out easily) Stick the ball back in its hole with a dab of grease and tap it smartly ONCE only with a brass punch, then re-assemble.
You must use a brass ended punch - not steel - which may put a flat on the ball and prevent it sealing. You must only hit it once - more than once will make another seat for every blow, and many seats partially overlapping will be as bad or worse than what you started with.
I have done my TD BX one with the regulator in the car, from underneath. The result is a ticking interval so long that I loose interest in timing it.
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Privet Dmitry
tell us a little about what it's like driving in Murmansk. What precautions do you need to cope with temperature extremes? How does the car stand up to the condition of the roads? Do you think the BX is a suitable car for Russian conditions?
Oscar
tell us a little about what it's like driving in Murmansk. What precautions do you need to cope with temperature extremes? How does the car stand up to the condition of the roads? Do you think the BX is a suitable car for Russian conditions?
Oscar
(Red BX 1.7TZD ("Well, it is a style icon" - Tom Sheppard)) "Was", Tom, "was"
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Well, I hate to disagree with Jeremy on a technical issue, but my estate had exactly the symptoms described by Dmitry : rear end dropping, fast ticking, and a hissing noise while braking. All these problems were solved by replacing the brake doseur with a lower mileage one.
If there's a decent trickle from the brake leakage return, I think the brake doseur is probably the culprit.
If there's a decent trickle from the brake leakage return, I think the brake doseur is probably the culprit.
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