hand brake, notches, and MOT

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hand brake, notches, and MOT

Post by pitman »

There is still a month to go for MOT, but this year, I want to do the hand brake myself. :D

I have changed the pads of the front brakes a few months ago and tried in the meantime this procedure doing the pedal brake and the hand brake interchangeably when in highest position.

So far, on a uphill road, I still need 12 to 14 notches until the brake seizes. On a normal road with little slope also 11 to 12, sometimes 10 notches.

How is your experience what the MOT testers do expect? :shock:

Haynes manual says the hand brake should start having effect from the 4th notch on, and seize on the 8th notch, and the self-adjusting mechanism comes into play when the lever travel reaches 12 to 15 notches. :?

Well, I'm personally satisfied with this hand brake as it is but will MOT testers, too?

Should I adjust the cables in the compensator that's nearby the hand brake lever? :?:
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Post by Vanny »

MOT testers love excess reverse travel in the hand brake lever! To the unknowling they will charge a furtune to readjust all the many linkages. To you and i, they will simply whip the wheel off and take a 17mm and 19mm and wind the nuts back on the end of the hand brake cable as it enters the lever on the caliper. If there clever they put the hand brake lever on 4 clicks, tighten so the pads touch the discs, then put the wheels back on, release the hand brake and with foot on the foot brake, pull up on the hadbrake lever. There is some auto adjustment in the handbrake.

Last time mine was failed on this it would come up to 6 clicks, and after having an arguement with the tester that they auto adjusted (and he refused ot even try) i took it back so that 3 clicks was very fully on. THe Goon hoofed on the handbrake lever up a good 5 nothces and had to use both hands to get it back ofF!
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Post by jeremy »

12 - 14 clicks is a bit excessive even for a BX with an extremely fine toothed ratchet.

Are both cables sound - if you look through the console in front of the brake lever you should be able to see the balance bar which pulls both cables. This should be about level - if not investigate the longer side.

The cables (which are cheap enough) don't last long and the favorite is for them to chafe through the outer cable on the bracket immediately above the brake. Quinton Hazell cables have a thick plastic cover at this point.

The other problems are in the caliper, and are operating arm not returning properly due to siezure - and siezed mechanism - preventing adjustment. It may be possible to improve things by lubrication or overhaul - Haynes gives details.