COUGHING TURBO DIESEL
COUGHING TURBO DIESEL
Just acquired a very lovely TZD turbo from fleaby which has few faults with it, one of which is thats it coughs now and again under hard acceleration, nothing major but it is noticeable.
Done 96k, starts on the button and drives very well and pulls like a train when the turbos spinning.
Will change all the filters and stick some injector cleaner through it soon enough, anything else could you suggest? On driving it home iit was smoking badly but aftera good thrash down the M42 thats now gone
Another thing is theres a definate "clonk" from undneath on start up and taking up drive in first/reverse.
Done 96k, starts on the button and drives very well and pulls like a train when the turbos spinning.
Will change all the filters and stick some injector cleaner through it soon enough, anything else could you suggest? On driving it home iit was smoking badly but aftera good thrash down the M42 thats now gone
Another thing is theres a definate "clonk" from undneath on start up and taking up drive in first/reverse.
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The clonk could be the lower engine mount. Drive it along in 1st gear at about 15mph and then suddenly let go of the throttle. If it does it then, or maybe when you're turning it off then I'd say it sounds like a good candidate.
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I'd check the condition of all the pipework in the fuel supply system for air leaks and also the pipe from the intercooler to the additional fuel device.
I think there are 2 possibilities - one is air in the fuel - and if you have a Roto-diesel pump this may interfere with the actual control mechanism in the pump. Another possibility is that the pipe to the additional fuel device is cracked or loose and so the additional fuel shuts off at times.
Other possibilities are the stop solenoid connections being loose - allowing it to shut off at times. (No power to the valve - it shuts)
The leakoff pipes can be ignored on a Roto-diesel pump - they just leak and smell - but will let air in on a Bosch
I think there are 2 possibilities - one is air in the fuel - and if you have a Roto-diesel pump this may interfere with the actual control mechanism in the pump. Another possibility is that the pipe to the additional fuel device is cracked or loose and so the additional fuel shuts off at times.
Other possibilities are the stop solenoid connections being loose - allowing it to shut off at times. (No power to the valve - it shuts)
The leakoff pipes can be ignored on a Roto-diesel pump - they just leak and smell - but will let air in on a Bosch
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Bottom engine mount is less than £10 from GSF and similar. There are instructions on here as to how to fit it.
Fuel leak near tank may well be the steel pipes that run to the front of the car. Best bet is genuine Citroen pipes - not expensive and relatively easy to fit. These may also let air in which could cause other problems - even the cough.
Fuel leak near tank may well be the steel pipes that run to the front of the car. Best bet is genuine Citroen pipes - not expensive and relatively easy to fit. These may also let air in which could cause other problems - even the cough.
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Sounds like, if you get this problem sorted (and it's got to be worth it given the cost price!) you've got yourself a nice BX. Well done.
I had my GTi's corroded fuel line replaced with a genuine Citroen one about two years ago and (although it wasn't the reason I had it done) it totally removed a flat spot. Possibly coincidence. But, worth considering.
Best of luck.
I had my GTi's corroded fuel line replaced with a genuine Citroen one about two years ago and (although it wasn't the reason I had it done) it totally removed a flat spot. Possibly coincidence. But, worth considering.
Best of luck.
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I recently changed the lower engine mount on a BX clonking in exactly the way you describe, and would lay very good odds that your £10 will prove a sound investment (possibly a no-sound investment too...). Do make sure you clean the metal mount carrier thoroughly before fitting a new one.
Air in diesel = surges, coughs, white smoke on startup and maybe even more. Fuel filter, fuel filter seals and the rubber diaphragm on the purflux-type push-button fuel filter assembly (if fitted) can also cause problems.
If replacing the metal fuel pipes pay especial care when removing the old pipes from the rubber pipes they fit onto - these can perish at the tank end, which may make life very awkward.
Air in diesel = surges, coughs, white smoke on startup and maybe even more. Fuel filter, fuel filter seals and the rubber diaphragm on the purflux-type push-button fuel filter assembly (if fitted) can also cause problems.
If replacing the metal fuel pipes pay especial care when removing the old pipes from the rubber pipes they fit onto - these can perish at the tank end, which may make life very awkward.
Back on two wheels and pedal power for the moment.
Today Mr Fearn and I had a tinker with the newest addition to the fleet, he very kindly rewelded the exhaust hanger whilst I fitted a new doormirror and generally faffed about.
Ian also looked at the fuel pipes under the car as theres a leak or two and pronounced them proper bo**ocksed! So ar ethey a easy job and how much do they cost! I think its just the metal ones that have rusted.
Many Thansk
Ian also looked at the fuel pipes under the car as theres a leak or two and pronounced them proper bo**ocksed! So ar ethey a easy job and how much do they cost! I think its just the metal ones that have rusted.
Many Thansk
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Tim have a look at the motor factors and see if you can get the plastic replacement pipes they are very very easy to fit and being plastic they wont rot again or you can get copper pipes I replaced mine on the TGD and it only took about half hour to do the job from start to finish
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