Rear Arms

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Oscar
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Rear Arms

Post by Oscar »

Both rear arm bearings replaced, at last. Taken me a year to cross that job off my list. Also found a bit of rust in the boot pan that i'll get sorted quickly.

Note to anyone thinking of doing them - make sure the bolts are tighter than a tight thing when doing them back up. The near side wheel started leaning back in again 2 weeks after I had replaced the bearings. Before I got the arm off to replace it, I thought "I wonder whether it just needs tightening?" Quarter of a turn later and it all was well.
(Red BX 1.7TZD ("Well, it is a style icon" - Tom Sheppard)) "Was", Tom, "was"

Stewart (oily!)
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Post by Stewart (oily!) »

I will wager that you were relieved :)
Stewart
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tim leech

Post by tim leech »

I bet :D

ellevie
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Post by ellevie »

When I did mine I bought a torque wrench from Machinemart for about £15 and torqued the nuts up to the prescribe torque, I think it was about 13 kgf m. The torque wrench is handy to have and £15 seemed like a good price. Machinemart p/n CHT141 1/2" drive torque wrench.
David

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docchevron
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Post by docchevron »

I just do them up TIGHT! I've done hundreds of them and never torqued one up yet (or had one fail).
I always work on the principle that if the bolt snaps, I went a bit too tight! :roll: :D :D :D :D

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Chris G
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Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...

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Way2go
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Post by Way2go »

docchevron1472 wrote: I always work on the principle that if the bolt snaps, I went a bit too tight!
:lol: Good job you're not into loading Camels backs with Straw then Doc? :wink: :lol:
1991 BX19GTi Auto

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docchevron
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Post by docchevron »

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!

Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...

Stewart (oily!)
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Post by Stewart (oily!) »

I have a big torque wrench but for items like the rear arm bolt I use the four white knuckles approach 8)
Stewart
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Xantia Td estate, going soft

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MULLEY
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Post by MULLEY »

Dont want to sound dim (leave it!!) to do the rear arms does everyone just buy the bearings or the whole kit? & where are the cheapest one's from? Ta

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Post by tom »

Buy the whole kit, change the whole kit. OE and replacement parts have minor differences which can catch you out.

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Kitch
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Post by Kitch »

docchevron1472 wrote:I just do them up TIGHT! I've done hundreds of them and never torqued one up yet (or had one fail).
I always work on the principle that if the bolt snaps, I went a bit too tight! :roll: :D :D :D :D

Cheers
Chris G
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MULLEY
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Post by MULLEY »

Tom i didnt quite understand what you meant by being caught out, are you saying go for oe rather than replacment versions? in which case whereabouts can i get oe kits from?

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Tight!!

Post by Geoffrey Gould »

Hi Kitch Knowing Doc tight it will be and happy you are ,untill that is you have to UNDO the bl**dy thing.
I have seen Doc go very red and cuss with the words "Who the f*ck did that up ----------" The answer "You did mate."

Cheers.
Geoff.
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Post by tom »

The Kits that GSF sell need to be fitted in toto because there are minor dimensional changes. Buying OE bearings alone won't help if the job is done with one of these kits. The GSF kits are comprehensive and fit for purpose.

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Post by tom »

To amplify this in the light of doing one last weekend (50 minutes, new personal best,) The SKF bearings have a different taper to A&S ones and keeping the inner raceways whilst swapping the taper rollers themselves will cause them only to make point contact where they don't go in far enough or float where they go in too far. It is the outer part that wears, so it needs changing. Cut away the tube with a sharp knife and use the old bolt as a drift to extract the raceways. a few smart smacks will drive them out.