Temp Gauge Problems

[Ian_Fearn]

Right, some time ago i fitted a Xantia sender unit and BX GTi temp gauge to my TZD.

I did the minor mod behind the dash with the wiring to make it all work in accordance with the advice from the good chaps off this site.

When i first put it in it didnt work. Testing of the gauge showed it to be US.

I put another gauge in it last night and it worked! Result.... Maybe not.

On the test run the gauge rose as you'd expect but it didnt stop and ended up running virtually at the end of the gauge, well past headgasket failure point.

Today i went out in it and again the gauge rose normally but stopped at just under 90 where i'd expect it to sit at in normal driving. When i turned the car off the gauge just stuck there at under 90. Its still there now.

I'm wondering if i've fried the gauge but why would it go so high in the first place?

[docchevron]

Hhmm, maybe the gauge was sleepy?

Cant see why it now reads correct and didn't first run up but it wont be accurate with a Xantia sender unit anyway. Not that BX gauges are known for accuracy!

The sender units are matched to the gauge so you will need to fit a sender for a BX GTi or Valver, then normality should resume!

The resistance is different between the Xanty and BX units so will read different temps on the gauge.

Cant remember the part number off the top of my head but they re available (I got one about 2 months ago), and they are very long lived and reliable on the whole so a good investment!

Cheers
Chris G

[Ian_Fearn]

Which bit do i need then?

The 8v one?



Or the 16v one?

[docchevron]

Looks like No.7 on your diagram mate.

8V and 16V senders are the same. Just ask for a temp sensor for the gauge (as opposed to the ECU!).

No.6 looks like the switch for "too late your engines just seized" light.

No.3 looks like the ECU temp sensor.

Cheers
Chris G

[jeremy]

You can download parts microfiches which come with specs of components and numbers from

http://citroeny.cz/servis/servis.htm

There are in fact 2 sets for the BX on this site - and seem to be in English. There are bits of the workshop manual as well - again in english.

The parts lists are items 2 and 8 under BX - and I think No 2 is the later one. Petrol only it seems.

[Ian_Fearn]

Cheers Chris....

[docchevron]

No worries matey!

Cheers
Chris G

[pitman]

On the test run the gauge rose as you'd expect but it didnt stop and ended up running virtually at the end of the gauge, well past headgasket failure point.

Today i went out in it and again the gauge rose normally but stopped at just under 90 where i'd expect it to sit at in normal driving. When i turned the car off the gauge just stuck there at under 90. Its still there now.

I'm wondering if i've fried the gauge but why would it go so high in the first place?

When I fitted my temp gauge from TIM, I had contact problems that I couldn't get at the bottom with. Sometimes it worked fine, sometimes the pointer went straight to max.

I played around with it and now it's working properly all the time.

[roscoe]

I used a temp gauge out of a 16V along with a new 16V sender and my gauge works fine. Since I've put the new radiator and thermostat in, the temp sits at 82C and doesn't budge except in heavy city traffic - it will go up to 88C. Yesterday was the baptism by fire - was 40C here and on my way to work at 130kmh, sat at 82C all the way, then once in city traffic, stayed there or while waiting at lights, it would slowly climb to 88C and then drop as soon as I got moving again. Haven't heard the fans cut in since I've done the radiator - big difference from the old one - by now I would have fried the engine for sure.

Just wish I'd got moving on putting A/C into the car sooner though . I've got the alloy sump on with brackets, so when I get some free time, will start installing the rest of the system - should have it done by winter!