Gearbox oil

[Bxaholic]

I've always used Esso 75w-80 oil for changes in the past for Bx's, but a month ago changed gearbox oil on my Tzd and used Morris semi synth 75w-90 as I couldn't get the usual Esso oil at the time, it soon became apparent that gear selection wasn't as smooth as previously so changed back this morning and everything seems fine again, why though?
Has anyone else had similar experiences?

[tom]

Yes, my usually spot on guy round the corner told me that not using a semi synthetic would result in my gearbox exploding. It is not true and the change quality was much worse. Stick to the cheap stuff. Do you think the French would buy anything that needed expensive oil that they couldn't actually eat?

[Way2go]

Decided that my auto fluid must be breeding on my last check (when hot ) as it's even higher than the last check.

[Geoffrey Gould]

Hello. You and me both, I couldnt understand why the oil was an 1" above the high mark but after discounting the oil cooler filling the box with water found that there were 2 things that effected the level greatly.

1. The car being on level ground, even a very small slope made a big difference to the level.

2. The oil temperature is critical, the oil has got to be up to 80 degree's at least. If the oil is checked when cold and is on the lower mark then when up to temp it will be on or very slightly above the top mark ( by about 3/16".) If the oil is topped up to the top mark when it is cold ( Or only just warm.) then when it is hot and up to temp. will be about an 1" above the top mark.

About 7 or 8 miles at least is needed in this weather to get the temp. up.

This is what I have found on mine anyway.
I hope that you are using Dexron 11 ( Dexron 2.) NOT the Dexron111 as this will destroy the box dispite advise received to the conterary.
Cheers.
Geoff.
PS.
Talking about the auto box, as regards the manual then there is some oil made by Total I believe, it's quite expensive supposed to be the only one to use but does work. Damned if I can remember the name TQ or something like that. The semi synthetic upsets the syncromesh so that it does not work very well. Hence the "hard" gear change. Alan S (Australia.) advises "Nulon" as an aditive says it works very well. E mailed them to find a supplier over here but didnt get a reply, so -------.

Geoff.

[docchevron]

In manual cars I've always used Total BV gear oil. Good stuff but smells awful!

Cheers
Chris G

[Cornishbx16v]

All gear oil stinks lol! evil smelling stuff! and takes forever to getthe smell of your hands too!

[Way2go]

I just used the Dextron 2 which was made by Comma for the last change having used Citroen stuff to top it up prior to this. Change is still slick and smooth so no need for additives which I always believe can create secondary problems. (If the change becomes harsh, then a fluid change is probably better & maybe cheaper.)

It seems to me that if these additives were neccessary then they would be part of the formulation of the original oils & fluids.

When the car was serviced at 30,000 miles by the Citroen main dealer I asked them to attend to the rpm fluctuation at idle. Their solution was to bung additive injector cleaner in the fuel. Some immediate benefit and then progressed to difficult starting and 15,000 miles later no starting at all. Reason = this one time additive had progressively and totally gummed up all 4 injectors. Professional cleaning and servicing of the injectors (took them off & in to Lucas locally) and the car was more responsive and smooth than I had ever remembered.

[Geoffrey Gould]

Ah thats the one Total BV, Close but not close enough got the name right so not a Total loss.
Cheers.
Geoff.

[Way2go]

If the Total BV is gear oil for manuals surely this is no good as auto transmission fluid?

[docchevron]

Total BV is indeed only for manual transmissions. Would be very bad to pour BV into an autobox!

for auto's a decent D2 oil is the only way to go mate!
No pun intended mate....

Cheers
Chris G

[Way2go]

for auto's a decent D2 oil is the only way to go mate!
No pun intended mate....

Comma is not expensive, do you see any downside with that Doc?

[RichardW]

For reasons best known to themselves, BE3 boxes seem to work much better with TOTAL BV gear oil. It's dear from the Cit dealer (£10 / litre springs to mind) but much more reasonable from GSF. BV stands for Boite Vitesse or some such - which is french for gear box! If you look at gear box on pr.net it asks if you are working on BVM or BVA - boite vitesse manual (not sure of the translation here!) or automatique presumably...... Keep the oil in the warm though - it took nearly 15 mins to fill the box on my mate's 306 after we changed the clutch when it had been only about 2 or 3°C all week. By comparison it took about 2 minutes to fill the ZX box after the clutch change - when the temp had been 20°C all week! Oh, and you need to get a bottle of some gear oil with a flexi filler neck (BV comes in a bottle with no pourer at all - I've got a Halfords one) otherwise it's almost impossible to get it in!

[docchevron]

[quote="Way2go]Comma is not expensive, do you see any downside with that Doc? [/quote]

Non at all mate. Comma is ok stuff. I've never had a problem with it.

Cheers
chris G

[BX Bandit]

I love the smell of gearbox oil...for some strange reason

Anyone tried slick 50 stuff..in either engine or g'box??

[Bxaholic]

TOTAL BV gear oil. It's dear from the Cit dealer (£10 / litre springs to mind) but much more reasonable from GSF.

The Esso gear oil I use is £10 for a 2 litre tin from the local Citroen dealer here, thats what they use.