Giving serious thought to having a pop on this on eBay...

[capri]

...but I need a little advice first.

Link

Really like it and it's got sentimental value for me because it's a white one, just like my old one! However, cosmetic condition isn't great (no biggie really). One thing I did want to ask about is that it hasn't got an ABS badge on the back. I thought all TZD Turbos had ABS - or did it come in after a certain date?

Anything else you reckon I should check if I do go and have a look?

[capri]

Oooh and there's also this one:

Link

Obviously both are similar mileage cars - the white one has the advantage of an excellent history and and elderly owner, but has a short MOT and is a bit beaten up. However, the grey one has a full MOT and looks in reasonably good nick from the pics, but doesn't seem to have any history and has a higher chance of having been poorly-maintained.

I know the obvious answer is 'go and see them both', and I would, but I haven't got the money for all the train fares it'd need, as they're both miles and miles away from me. So my thinking is to either go see the grey one on a bit of a wing and a prayer, and hope it's good, or make the eBay bloke a provisional offer on his car and then go and see that. To be honest, I must admit I feel a bit more safe about the white car because of its history - and the grey car is for sale by a potentially very dodgy dealer in the Shoreditch/Bethnal Green/Tower Hamlets area of North London!

Lots of questions, I know, sorry. Any opinions or comments would be gratefully received!

[Philip Chidlow]

Personally I'd go for the white one. Because of its provenence. History and recent work. Cosmetic things can be dealt with in stages. Mileage on the high side though, but you do get lots of paperwork. Sunroof deflector and headlight protectors too - which are worth £3,000 on their own ( )

Grey one - a bit more of a gamble. A dealer too, so don't know if anything's been swept under the carpet so to speak... but you will get the right to return it if it packs up driving it away...

[Philip Chidlow]

ALSO - something's gone a bit awry with this thread as the width of the posts seems excessively wide, Mr Mods...

[tim leech]

ABS was standard as far as am aware however thats a early one! If it doesnt have abs it can be a blessing as they are troublesome with age.

A damn good clean and a £50 worth of dentremoval would see it right, and some decent wheeltrims or alloys wuld be nice too!


Get bidding!

[Stinkwheel]

Its possibly just been worked on at plaedies, if its currently located at Sawtry Cambs.

[jeremy]

History is of little use - providing it looks as though the engine has been well looked after - ie regular oil changes and water kept in it. Other than that there's very little that servicing will prevent happening - as after all you don't grease these things regularily.

Few people have a good word to say for main dealers yet strangely love buying cars that they have maintained - so I can only conclude that they think bad service only happens to them.

Personally I'd rather buy a car with a grubby engine that looks as though it hasn't been touched for ages - as I know no-one has bodged it for sale. I would be unlikely to buy a car that has just had its head gasket done for example as it may have been done as cheaply as possible 'in the trade' and corners cut.

[Philip Chidlow]

Its possibly just been worked on at plaedies, if its currently located at Sawtry Cambs.

The pictures of the paperwork seem to suport that assumption, sir

[capri]

Thanks for your advice guys. I think I will have a go at the white car, you know. Yes, it looks like it's had a lot of work done by Pleadies, which obviously is a boon. It looks to me like it could be a good car, hidden beneath all the cosmetic issues! As regards the page width, I'm afraid that's my fault due to my lengthy links. I'll just edit those down for you!

Jeremy - I'm afraid I have to disagree with you mate. For me, history is of great importance in order to prove that things like spheres, brake pads, and other service items have been changed recently, so that one knows that one doesn't have to worry about doing them for at least a little while. It also gives you knowledge of how frequently the car's been serviced - and personally I'd rather have a car that I know has been serviced when it should have been rather than one I haven't got a clue about! This one hasn't been maintained at a main dealer and I think your example about the head gasket only really applies if the car is being sold by a trader.

[Philip Chidlow]

Lengthy links aren't the problem, so don't worry! (It's all fixed now, anyway - thanks to whoever is responsible)...

I agree with you about history. It's reassuring (OK it isn't to be taken entirely without question) and gives 'depth' to the car. It also reflects the probability that it hasn't been badly neglected and spent five years being thrashed around fields by pikies before being rescued, given a brush up and once-over...

[BX Bandit]

Jeremy, I disagree that History is of little use. It's not a garuntee of course, and I think I understand your point that even with a FSH, the clutch could fail in 200 miles.....but history is an indication of how/if the car has been maintained and can include accident damage...the history on my 16v was very useful in confirming to me that the car has been maintained and has listed minor accident repairs which I can see have been repaired well.

As Capri needs a car that is mechanically reliable, at least the history gives confidence that the car has had the necessary work to keep it in working order.

You've got cars with essentially the same mileage...one with a history and one without. Personally, I would go for the white one, I actually think it looks in good condition and as Philip says, the cosmetic stuff can wait. If you're going down to France in it, you want to know as far as is possible that you have a sound car.

I once had a '92 TZD Hurricane that didn't have ABS so it wasn't standard then (maybe it was on later models)

A few pointers that I would consider if buying one and if the car does display these faults, it doesn't necessarily mean walk away but you need to know what work may need doing and could influence your purchase price.(this is not a comprehensive list..)

Check for rear arm bearing wear: rear wheels should not angle towards the car at the top, have approx 1 inch between the tyre and inner wing (on 165 tyres), the gap on either side should be tha same.

Listen for clonks/bangs going over pot holes that will indicate a suspension/steering joint. Turn hard left and right to listen for rythmic clonking - indicates worn outer CV joint.

Check for steering rack gaiters and cv joint boots.

Listen for a hum that varies with speed, could be wheel bearing/intermediate drive shaft bearing

Raise lower suspension, it will probably creak on top notch..if severe the struts may need replacing but there is a lube trick that will help.

Check for LHM leak anywhere...!! but also look for leak around steering rack pinion...

Check for bubbles in rad header tank. There shouldn't be any rust coloured deposits in the header tank. Have a little taste..but spit it out of the rad water...should have a sweet taste to it

Try and get the car nice and hot and check for cold spots on the radiator (mine was stone cold and I ended up with terminal engine probs)

Check mot advisories for up-coming potential probs and ask if they have been rectified already.

Look for clutch replacement in history...if there isn't one (unlikely but possible) I would wager that you'll need one soon..see if the car judders when taking off in 1st

Feel for damp carpets...could be sunroof drain tubes blocked or worse still if its drivers footwell it may be heater matrix (again, taste to see if its sweet as an indication)

Apart from the usual checks for rust/crash damage thats all I can think of, I'm sure others will add more. Good luck.
BTW, when I say taste, it's a drop on the finger and spit it out starightaway!

[Philip Chidlow]

Excellent advice. Capri, go for it, I've had another look at the listing and I don't even think the cosmetics are bad. The history file is bulging and it's even go a tow bar. T & T too. Got to be worth a punt. Nice in white too!

[jeremy]

Bandit - if its had accident damage that's been repaired badly you'll see it with a cursory inspection as something won't fit or look right.

Clutch - well does it feel right - or make noises - judging from posts on here there are many with heavy clutches engaging in the wrong place and making funny noises - so there are indications of problems coming up. Its worth looking at the bolts securing the gearbox - on our ZX at 8 years old and 53,000 miles there were rusty marks which, combined with incorrect adjustment suggests to me the clutch had been done.

Its also worth remembering that no professional clutch fitter will adjust a cable - so new clutches invariably are left freeing with the pedal on the floor. This is also the sign that the fingers or release bearing is wearing. Plate wear should mean that the biting point rises, a heavy pedal can be a sign of wear as the diaphragm spring exerts more pressure on a thin plate, ultimately seeming to go over centre.

You're not going to get a new car for few hundreds - bodywork costs more than mechanics anyway on these things as does the interior unless you are very luck in finding second hand.

ABS was technically an option - but was I think fitted to many un allocated cars at the factory - so that the dealer could either seem to be giving a discount - or say - well sir - there's that one you can have straight away - but if we order you one without ABS it'll take 3 months to arrive. I really can't see as many being ordered with an £850 option by customers - even if they did get a badge on the back.

[tom]

ABS was not standard equipment until late in the production run. Few pre 1991 cars are likely to have it fitted and it is more common on estates.

[BX Bandit]

C'mon then Capri what you doing with this? Or has it expired already?