steering rack

sleepy0905 · Post by **sleepy0905** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 8:43 am

does anyone know it the part arrowed can be removed of the rack?

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AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 12:53 pm

Yes; but it's a bugger of a job and not recommended as it can leave it not as tight as it needs to be for total security and afety.
I have no doubts that you're wanting to fit a steering rack gaitor which is why they usually ask this question. I asked it a few years back and at the end of the day, I managed to buy a German made stretch type that I eventually squeezed over (with great difficulty) but to do it as per the book, the rack needs to come out and it then slips on from the other end. You'll possibly find that's the quickest way in the end anyway.
Don't even bother trying to fit the genuine Cit ones as they're plastic, won't stretch and you'll tear them if you try.
I understand that if you grunt enough, Peugeot 405 ones can be stretched over it as unlike Citroen ones, they are made of a stretchy rubber type of material.

Alan S

sleepy0905 · Post by **sleepy0905** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 1:10 pm

ho hum ah well time to start looking for a flexible boot and making some kind of cone so it will slip over the spigot.

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 1:29 pm

Trick I was taught by the guy who sells the stretchy types. Grab a fitting cone (or grab a witches hat off the roadside and trim to suit) and spray the outside of the cone with silicone spray. Wrap some plastic sheeting around the cone and spray it with silicone too. Stick a plasric plug over the lug end but these stretch types take some tearing, and proceed to push the gaitor up the cone; leave it stretched on the cone overnight if possible to allow it to stretch. Force it over and leave it sit for a while to come back to size. Trim to suit after it has been fitted but not strapped. Zip tie or use the ligarex straps to hold in position. The plastic sheet allows it to slip easier and also helps protect it as it goes over the bolt on the banjo. Pull out and discard the plastic once in position.

Alan S

Mr B · Post by **Mr B** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 9:31 pm

We gave up trying to remove that bit over at Jon's earlier this year, Tom tried heroically with much frowning and teeth grinding to shift the bugger. After a few

we came to the conclusion it was easier to swap the rack for another unit

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 9:51 pm

Mr B wrote:We gave up trying to remove that bit over at Jon's earlier this year, Tom tried heroically with much frowning and teeth grinding to shift the bugger. After a few we came to the conclusion it was easier to swap the rack for another unit

We had one guy on the previous forum who was from NZ who was determined to do it and managed to get some kind of portable hydraulic press on the job (Port-a-power?) and after heating it, did eventually get it out and pressed it back on, but if it's so tight a fit (is this what they call a shrink or a press fit?) that heat and hydraulics are still battling to remove it, I could imagine you could stand a real good chance of having the lot wandering up and down the rack on a hot day given the right set of circumstances. From memory, the guy who did it we haven't heard from since, so that might say it all!

Alan S

Mr B · Post by **Mr B** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 9:57 pm

Could be the reason why they are built with a type of plastic boot not rubber, so they last longer. The one on Jon's was in a poor state due to the possibility the battery may have leaked on it.

sleepy0905 · Post by **sleepy0905** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 9:58 pm

well I have got my friendly metalworker to make me a cone like the one they use for cv joints to put the new boot on so when i do the job i will let you know how it goes.

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 10:43 pm

Mr B wrote:Could be the reason why they are built with a type of plastic boot not rubber, so they last longer. The one on Jon's was in a poor state due to the possibility the battery may have leaked on it.

Strangely enough, the rubber ones seem to outlast them; I can't speak for over your way, but here the plastic seems to go just like a piece of semi hard plastic left in the sun and it looks like a heap of plastic washers floating up an down the shaft in no time. The plastic also seems to tend to scuff and wear holes through it.
Mind you, we're talking about a place that can have winter temps higher than your summer ones so probably not a real good comparison; I mean 40 degrees in the shade is a fairly warm type of a spring day innit?

Alan S

tom · Post by **tom** » Wed Oct 12, 2005 2:45 pm

Those boots supplied by GSF will fit over the lug if the axial joint is removed first. It isn't easy but I know from experience that it can be done.