Blower motor or PCB ?

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Tue May 22, 2007 7:58 pm

Story so far....

When I bought Monica 7 weeks ago, the blower would only blow on a slow setting, so I took apart the control panel and did the "cut & solder" job on the pcb. Also cleaned up all the connectors to the blower motor itself and the track on the pcb with meths. Everything fine.....blower worked faster, but still not really as fast as I would have expected (My BX14 had a really great blower).
A couple of days ago, with no warning, the blower fan stopped working altogether. I only noticed it when I tried to get some cooler air to cool down my hot feet!! I checked all the obvious bits, fuse, relay (I think), motor connections etc., and took apart the control panel ( again!!), but all seems to be fine.

I'm not really keen on all the 'check voltage across pins 3 & 4' stuff, and I don't have a multimeter!

Any suggestions as to what might be the most likely culprit?

Is there a good way to properly check the relay, and precisely which relay is it? (I did check the seating etc., of all the relays I could find in the fusebox), and how the bloody hell does the blower motor itself come out of the casing?

btw.....Monica is a 1993 TXD Turbodiseasel

Cheers
Dave

Stewart (oily!) · Post by **Stewart (oily!)** » Tue May 22, 2007 8:34 pm

Its often the transistor thingy which mounts in the blower housing, if the fan motor is tired it should respond to a gentle tap (temporarily)
I have a spare motor unit (used) if needed.
Stewart

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Tue May 22, 2007 8:40 pm

Cheers Stewart!
Is that transistor thingy serviceable? If so, how can it be tested, and could it be fixed by a little bit of wizardry bought from Maplins for a few pennies?

Can I have first refusal on your blower, if I can't get this one working?

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Tue May 22, 2007 10:04 pm

The heater module.

You can get it out without having to completely remove the blower assembly, however you need to unbolt it and turn on it's side. Just 3, 10mm nuts and one pozi screw.

When is stops blowing like yours, it's usually a bad joint on the PCB, can be repaired by resoldering. When it's on full blow constantly, it's stuffed.

mountainmanUK · Post by **mountainmanUK** » Tue May 22, 2007 10:11 pm

Cheers Ken!

I'll check the solder again tomorrow.

One more question...
Can I test the blower motor itself by simply shoving an earth and a powered (12v) feed directly from the battery, to see if it kicks into gear?
Which of the terminals would I need to use?
I've had the whole blower assembly out from under the bonnet before!

Sorry for sounding like a total novice (I'm actually quite adept usually at fixing up cars!)

Cheers
Dave

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Wed May 23, 2007 5:09 pm

You can!. If you look, just before where the wires go into the motor, there is a plug, simply split at this plug and put 12v in.

I'd be very surprised if it's not just the module problem.