putting the engine back together, a few questions. . .

[joolie]

Ok, the cylinder head is changed, exhaust manifold is FINALLY on (it took a while) radiator is back in munis a plug or two. IN the next few days im fitting a new HP pump belt and alternator belt. Then if i havent misplaced a very important bolt, plug or gasket. the engine is ready to test!

But here are a few questions :

1. What is the CORRECT setup for the injector pipes, i got it set up like this:




but im not 100% its right. A photo would help the best, but a description would do!

2. What the hell is this????



its on the side of the radiator, connected to some wiring.

3. I lost a radiator plug, is there a way to botch one, I found a well fitting cork, will it take 1bar of pressure? (ill go to the scrappie later).

4. Anyone know a sure way to tell a UK left dipped headlight from a EU right dipped one (i mixed them up, and now im guessing by manufacture date).

5. I still got a slight leak of the green (LHM) under the drivers side underside, theres a copper pipe and a transparet one, further up there are hard metal pipes, any ideas? What usually goes wrong on the hydrulic lines? can it be patched up?

6. One more thing, how is the Oil filler fitted to the engine bloc? Is it pushed inside or resting on the outside?


thanks!

J

[Vanny]

1) AFAIK there is only ONE possible combination for the pipes. What you have looks right and i believe it would be very difficult and require a lot of ignorance to get wrong!

2)I suspect that particular relay is the dipped headlights relay (might be the low speed fan relay but normally these have locally fitted connectors (no wires)).

3) a cork aint gonna help. Normally sufficient araldite and curing time will seal the hole, but the correct bung is the best solution.

4) pretty easy, UK head lights point to the left! Get directly in front of the light on full beam and move to your right, if the beam seems to get brighter, probably blinding then its a UK spec light. You can tell by the shape of the refletors, but i'm out of exact knowledge!

5)money on the return line from the battery side clutch pumping back and the y-connector having split.

6) i'm told (and is usually seen in the scrapper ) that it goes on the outside (look at the securing method), never been convinced, but they are all like that!

[docchevron]

1: pipes look as they should be
2: I thought the three wire canister was for the fans? either way it should be secured by a clip to the cross member.
3: Cork. NO. Visit scrappy, get proper job!
4: Look at the glass. In the corner of the unit (inprinted in the glass) at the grill end of the light there are two arrows.
Left hand drive lights have an arrow pointing to the right (as you look at them), right hand drive lights have an arrow pointing to the left of the car (as you look at them)! Easy. I have one of each sat on my lap as I type.
5: Duno without seeing the car really.
6: It does go on the outside of the tube. There should be a sealing ring on the tube, push the filler neck as far as it will go, then out a jubilee clip around the neck where the seal is.

[joolie]

I just found out, there is NO local scrappie, the nearest is 20 miles away, and there aint no busses.

Is there a temporary solution to plugging the radiator?

[jeremy]

Problem here is that TD's are very sensitive to overheating - and if the water isn't in the right place (and I mean properly bled so that its in contact all over the head) it'll blow up.

Even if you swap the bottom and top plugs over the top one is at a critical height and you need to get the level higher than that plug to bleed properly.

A cork will blow out under pressure - and these engines run at 15 psi (like most others)

[joolie]

Thanks for the tech explaination, thats what I needed to know. I got a problem firstly finding a scrap yard, second finding one with a BX TZD, its not possible in Sweden. . . It took me 9 months to find a head, AND I got it from the UK!

Im going to put a shout up on the forum for a spare.

[mnde]

Is it possible to carry out a temporary repair like I did when I sheared off my thermostat bleed screw several months ago...? i.e. put a suitably sized rubber "lid" around the hole and secure it tightly with a jubilee clip. Assuming there is a stub that the plug normally sits in, that is. I used a hard rubber floor protector off the bottom of a clothes horse, and it hasn't melted or blown off yet!

Mark.