drive shaft nut size

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 5:38 pm

i've been trying to get a socket so i can undo the driveshafts on a tzd that i'm breaking for parts

i've had some problems getting the nuts undone as some idiot has done the nuts up so tight (with an aimpact wrench) that they cannot be undone

I have already broken a 1/2" bar so i need to use a 3/4" drive socket

every time i ask for a 35mm they try to tell me that it must be 34 or 36mm

is 35mm the correct size ?

Stewart (oily!) · Post by **Stewart (oily!)** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 5:59 pm

Ite really 35mm but if you use a six sided socket then 36 will be fine.
Stewart

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 6:14 pm

i've just tried a second bar on it and started to go

so i'll pop over to a local tool shop and buy the 3/4" drive version and try that it should come with easy

then i'll go looking for the tw***t who over did the impact on it and brain him

(if he has a brain that is)

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 7:14 pm

A length of pipe over the breaker bar usually works a treat.
It has an equivalent in an imperial size for future reference.
Mine is SAE and I'll take a peak once the sun comes up and post the size in case anyone else has need to buy one in future.

Alan S

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 12:58 am

I thought mine were extra tight and struggled with the socket. Anyway then bought the 24" breaker bar (1/2 inch) from Halfords, stood on it and the nuts moved no probs. If the Halfords ones break in the professional range, you can take them back and exchange them.

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 3:13 am

For future reference if anyone gets caught out trying to get the right size, it's a 1 3/8" in Imperial (S.A.E.) language.

Fits like a glove.

Alan S

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 12:24 pm

i've just collected the socket from the shops (£18 )

put it on

aplied one size 13 + foot to the bar and off they came

$\:D/$

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Thu Sep 13, 2007 7:17 pm

They are supposed to be that tight

Its definately not overtightened by any tw***t

You need to tighten it with the same forces once it goes back on !

Mine is also a 1-3/8" socket - found in a metric country

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 12:32 pm

yes your right

i've used the tool on both the cars now and used the same amount of force on both

but i must be a bit spolit having to use more force to do up the nuts on my 2cvs (230 lbs ft with 3/4" drive)

the ones one the bx that had years ago were probalbly not as tight as they should have been as i have no trouble turning them with a 1/2" drive socket

as for the idiots we have around i'm used to having to stand over them when i get tyres changed to make that they don't impact drivers when putting the wheels back on as they use them to bolt up anything

Stewart (oily!) · Post by **Stewart (oily!)** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 2:38 pm

The only time I ever did them up to the torque figures given in the BOL (mainly to try out an absolutely huge torque wrench I had been given) I snapped two 24" half inch drive breaker bars failing to undo them a year later

Stewart

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 2:53 pm

Stewart (oily!) wrote:The only time I ever did them up to the torque figures given in the BOL (mainly to try out an absolutely huge torque wrench I had been given) I snapped two 24" half inch drive breaker bars failing to undo them a year later
Stewart

I snapped two 24" half inch drive breaker bars trying undo them this time

got a nice new 3/4" drive socket and it's very easy now

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 2:53 pm

classic2cv wrote: as for the idiots we have around i'm used to having to stand over them when i get tyres changed to make that they don't impact drivers when putting the wheels back on as they use them to bolt up anything

The rotary air impact drivers shouldn't be a problem as they are set to the correct torque for wheel nuts.

The citroen supplied brace is really just a toy for either undoing or re-tightening!

Get yourself an extending wheel brace where you tighten with it closed and undo with it extended and you'll smile even after the tyrechangers have been at it with air.

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:14 pm

we've got 2 of those (one for each car)

the best tool that I’ve bought in ages

It does exactly what says on the box

prm · Post by **prm** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 9:30 pm

Quite agree, with an extending wheel brace, carry one all the time in the tool box.

Depending on the make of ½ inch drive pneumatic air wrench, initial free rotation can vary between 25-45 ft/lbs torque, before the hammer action takes over, and some can achieve in excess of 200 ft/lbs within a very few impacts.

Its virtually impossible to control the precise power of these air tools with the range of settings required for various wheel nuts/bolts, due to there mechanical design, unless preset clutches are fitted internally or the use of one piece extension torque bar sockets.

Experienced tyre fitters usually run-up studs/bolts until the hammer action takes over, then use a torque wrench for the final settings.

BX recently repaired, came in with some wheel studs reading nearly double the required spec.

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Fri Sep 14, 2007 10:51 pm

prm wrote:Conscientious tyre fitters usually run-up studs/bolts until the hammer action takes over, then use a torque wrench for the final settings.

Most tyre fitters usually run-up studs/bolts until the hammer action takes over, and then keep hammering for about 3 minutes, leaving the bolt so tight it cannot be removed without using an angle grinder.

Edited for reality.