A length of pipe over the breaker bar usually works a treat.
It has an equivalent in an imperial size for future reference.
Mine is SAE and I'll take a peak once the sun comes up and post the size in case anyone else has need to buy one in future.
Alan S
By the time you're old enough to know it all, you can't remember why you were learning.
I thought mine were extra tight and struggled with the socket. Anyway then bought the 24" breaker bar (1/2 inch) from Halfords, stood on it and the nuts moved no probs. If the Halfords ones break in the professional range, you can take them back and exchange them.
They are supposed to be that tight
Its definately not overtightened by any tw***t
You need to tighten it with the same forces once it goes back on !
Mine is also a 1-3/8" socket - found in a metric country
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
i've used the tool on both the cars now and used the same amount of force on both
but i must be a bit spolit having to use more force to do up the nuts on my 2cvs (230 lbs ft with 3/4" drive)
the ones one the bx that had years ago were probalbly not as tight as they should have been as i have no trouble turning them with a 1/2" drive socket
as for the idiots we have around i'm used to having to stand over them when i get tyres changed to make that they don't impact drivers when putting the wheels back on as they use them to bolt up anything
The only time I ever did them up to the torque figures given in the BOL (mainly to try out an absolutely huge torque wrench I had been given) I snapped two 24" half inch drive breaker bars failing to undo them a year later
Stewart
TZD 19 TD one of the few
Xantia Td estate, going soft
Stewart (oily!) wrote:The only time I ever did them up to the torque figures given in the BOL (mainly to try out an absolutely huge torque wrench I had been given) I snapped two 24" half inch drive breaker bars failing to undo them a year later
Stewart
I snapped two 24" half inch drive breaker bars trying undo them this time
got a nice new 3/4" drive socket and it's very easy now
classic2cv wrote:
as for the idiots we have around i'm used to having to stand over them when i get tyres changed to make that they don't impact drivers when putting the wheels back on as they use them to bolt up anything
The rotary air impact drivers shouldn't be a problem as they are set to the correct torque for wheel nuts. The citroen supplied brace is really just a toy for either undoing or re-tightening! Get yourself an extending wheel brace where you tighten with it closed and undo with it extended and you'll smile even after the tyrechangers have been at it with air.
Quite agree, with an extending wheel brace, carry one all the time in the tool box.
Depending on the make of ½ inch drive pneumatic air wrench, initial free rotation can vary between 25-45 ft/lbs torque, before the hammer action takes over, and some can achieve in excess of 200 ft/lbs within a very few impacts.
Its virtually impossible to control the precise power of these air tools with the range of settings required for various wheel nuts/bolts, due to there mechanical design, unless preset clutches are fitted internally or the use of one piece extension torque bar sockets.
Experienced tyre fitters usually run-up studs/bolts until the hammer action takes over, then use a torque wrench for the final settings.
BX recently repaired, came in with some wheel studs reading nearly double the required spec.
prm wrote:Conscientious tyre fitters usually run-up studs/bolts until the hammer action takes over, then use a torque wrench for the final settings.
Most tyre fitters usually run-up studs/bolts until the hammer action takes over, and then keep hammering for about 3 minutes, leaving the bolt so tight it cannot be removed without using an angle grinder.