spheres going ? someone wants to do job ?

cacaolat · Post by **cacaolat** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:22 pm

Hello everyone (sorry I did not visit the forum in ages)
Lately I felt my BX a bit jumpy when riding over those annoying speedbumps.
I have tried to test (as described somewhere on this forum) to push down each corner of the car. It seems normal to me, but I just feel a citroen should be nice and soft.
How can I be sure the spheres need replacing ?
How much do garages usually charge for the work ?
I have the cars service history and can see that every service has been done by a citroen garage, but I can only see the date and mileage when it has been done, I don't know what has been done, so I don't know how old the existing spheres are.

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 2:25 pm

Sounds like the first sign.

I found they go from being a bit jumpy on the speedbumps, then you notice that the general ride is bumpier than you remember and if you shrug this off then the headlamp beams bounce up and down on the motorway signboards.
This was just due to the front spheres and after replacement was fine. However a few years on using Amtex replacements I think they may have just started to degrade too.

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:42 pm

Many moons ago I had the front spheres replaced on a BX less than week later one of them was causing first my passengers then more importantly myself the driver to become Car sick due to a faulty sphere that went hard, The jumping was that bad.
Thats the first and only time that has happened but the jumpyness is a sign of sphere failure OR could be that you have not topped up or checked the LHM level?

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 7:18 pm

Low LHM will normally cause the warning lights to come on.

Stiff struts can cause the ride to go hard (do they creak?, does the car rise and fall jerkily?) Lubrication may help - there are detailed instructions on this site.

Is the ride height correct? The height correctors are prone to stick when they need lubricating causing the car to ride low - and jerkily. Try raising the car and dropping it to the normal height and see if the ride improves - if it does then lubrication of the corrector may help - its probably not on the service schedule.

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 7:46 pm

Is it the front or the rear that seems to be a bit jumpy? If its the front its really easy to change them, the rears are harder but plenty of advice from club members available or possible help if u get stuck....

cacaolat · Post by **cacaolat** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 11:50 pm

LHM was checked at the last service, which was last summer. Although the car drops very quickly at the back, the ride hight seems perfectly normal and there never was any noise from the struts ..
I should check out the lubrication

pinfold · Post by **pinfold** » Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:14 am

cocoalat / Mulley / jeremy

Whats this test for a sphere going then???

Have you got a thread to the article on the forum for checking spheres?

Thanks

Matt

cacaolat · Post by **cacaolat** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 8:34 am

Hi pinfold
the test I was talking about was just to keep the car on a level ground and push each corner to see if the suspension is hard or soft. Now I am pretty sure that my front sheres need changing...I am not sure about the rear ones.
I will start looking for some new ones preferably original citroen, is there someone who can fit them for me at a resonable price ?

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 11:17 am

As a rough rule, the spheres should be so soft that if you stand on the rear bumper/towbar it just about bottoms out. Shouldn't be quite so soft at the front, but it should be soft enough that if two people sit on the front wings, the car all-but bottoms out.

There can of course be other reasons why the car feels less smooth. Broken rear arm bearings is a favourite (leaning rear wheels), as can be stiff sticky front struts (noted by the front suspension going up in jumps rather than smoothly)

The rear suspension dropping quickly is more than likely a leaky dosieur valve, which isn't a major worry. Mine drops in 20 mins from normal ride height at the rear, but it doesn't affect the braking.

If it is the spheres that are flat, I wouldn't recommend amtex ones. They seem to be rather sub-standard and degrade very quickly. Your best bet is Pilades ones. Much better quality, will last much longer and if your old ones are the type that can be recharged then you get a tenner back for them. Front spheres are fairly easy to change Rear ones somewhat less so, but still not massively difficult. If you'd like a hand changing them and can spare half a day to drive to mine, I'd be happy to show you how it's done.

One of the next things I want to build is a testing rig for spheres to measure the remaining nitrogen charge. Fairly easy to do but I just need to do it. Would be nice to be able to be sure about the condition of spheres rather than guessing.

Oscar · Post by **Oscar** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 11:47 am

Hi Gregor

If you can get down to Medway one Saturday or Sunday I'm happy to do them with you. It's not difficult and won't take long. You'll need to buy new ones beforehand though

You can meet Lena and Leo too this time.

Regards

Oscar

cacaolat · Post by **cacaolat** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 1:16 pm

Thank you for that good advice. the struts are not creaking at all and the car rises smoothly.
I will look around for some of the good spheres.
Oscar thank you I will let you know when I can come to Medway. I have no time this weekend.

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:23 pm

Using a sphere tester takes out all the guesswork, and is well worth the effort to consruct.

Pic below is the one I made, and works a treat..

DavidRutherford · Post by **DavidRutherford** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:34 pm

Nice LHM tank!

Do you have a photo of the other side too? I'd be interested to see how you've plumbed yours.

All I need now is an appropriate pressure gauge, which shouldn't be more than a few quid from the bay of flea.

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:54 pm

can we have some more details

i'd like to make one for myself

i think i have most of the bits apart from the pressure gauge

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:44 pm

Hi David,

No, I did not have any other photo's, but have just taken some more as shown below.

This little project was a result of a thread on the FC Forum, when it's back on line, may be worth doing a search.

All the bits I had, with the exception of the gauge. This was purchased on the bay, and the connector to the gauge, which I had to get turned up by a small hydraulic machine shop.

Since using the unit, I found it is in fact dual purpose, not only can you test the sphere internal pressures, but also use it to test the function of each piston output of the pump, thus determine any variations.

Open the valve, rotate the pump to bleed all the air out, then close the valve, and with a spanner on the pump shaft, move clock and anti clock on the selected piston, count the number of compressions to reach a pre determined pressure on the gauge. Repeat on all pistons, then compare the results.

Hope this is helpfull.

By the way, you are only allowed one guess for the make of the LHM tank..

If there is sufficient interest, may be a good idea to make a sticky with it.