Lower O/E B/Js

[BX Bandit]

Does anyone know who manufactures the 'original equipment' lower ball joints? Is it Lemfeorder? I'm not having much success with the GSF ones as they seem to last only a few months ECP are doing Lemfeorders for £13 + VAT. Has anyone used them?
Any ideas how much a 'genuine' one is? pt no 96 041 652 I think.
I can't understand why the one on the 16v has only lasted since May - I've not being rallying the car or anything? Just wondering if it's materials or manufacturing tolerances or some such mystery?

[CitroXim]

No, but I replaced one on my TD Xantia about 18 months ago with a GSF-sourced "Falcon" one and it's been quite OK.

They should certainly last longer than they are for you and they're not something you want to change on a regular basis

Personally, and I'll be very careful how I say this but whilst I've never had any quality concerns with stuff sourced from GSF, I'm not so sure about stuff from ECP. Just a personal opinion.

I'd go for genuine OE although from Citroen they're circa £35 each although for the Xantia £10 cheaper I thought, perhaps wrongly that a BX and Xantia shared these components... Mr. GSF omly want £9.50 for them (ex VAT)

Still, if they last, well worth paying for the genuine item.

[Vanny]

its not something to do with the wish bone bushes killing them off is it?

[CitroXim]

its not something to do with the wish bone bushes killing them off is it?

I've been pondering what might kill them early Vanny but I reckon that anything serious enough to wipe them out in that time would be felt when driving or would show up in abnormal tyre wear and I reckon you would have spotted something by now BX Bandit. For the same reason I rule out errors in fitting to account for it unless the boot is being damaged and moisture is getting in but again I doubt as anyone able to swap one of these joints has to be a pretty competent worker by definition.

How exactly, are they failing? That might give a clue perhaps.

[BX Bandit]

How exactly, are they failing? That might give a clue perhaps

The 'pin' for want of a better description (i.e. the tapered/threaded part) is a loose fit/wobbly in the other part that houses it. I've not hit any major bumps/pot holes that may have shocked it. As far as I know there are no holes in the boot but I'll inspect closer on removal. The car stays straight when on an even surface, so I suspect the tracking is ok, although the outer shoulder of the n/s tyre (same side as failed b/j) is a tad worn. I've only done about 3000 miles since it was fitted. The lower wishbone bushes were new too.

I prefer to use GSF as I like the guys down there in Cardiff but I have had other issues with parts supplied by them which cumulatively are making me nervous about using any parts at all from them...e.g. Track rod ends are approx 5 mm longer than the genuine ones that came off the car!! I had starter motor woes on my TD (now sorted) only to find I have the same issue on the replacement starter motor for my 16v...the list continues...

What ECP do on some parts is list the actual manufacturer and for some reason I thought that Lemfreoder were an OE manufacturer. Up until Cit changed their PC-net I'm sure they listed the OE manufacturer...

[ellevie]

service.citroen.com

0000364021.....BALL JOINT SUSP.....32.40 GBP......38.07 GBP
000E459501.....SUSP JOINT.............27.22 GBP......31.98 GBP
0000362306.....PIVOT PROTECTOR....4.44 GBP........5.22 GBP

[AndersDK]

There is one thing that will cook the b/j's out in short time : missing heat shield protectors. These are fitted to shield against the heat emitted from the brake disc which runs VERY close to the joint.
The joint wont run dry, but the nylon insert gets soft and is compressed by the heat.

Please note that the brakes have to consume exactly the same power to stop the car - as the engine delivers to accelerate and run the car

Its the one listed by ellevie.

Might not be available for the BX anymore. But the Xantia protector will fit no problem.

[CitroXim]

There is one thing that will cook the b/j's out in short time : missing heat shield protectors. These are fitted to shield against the heat emitted from the brake disc which runs VERY close to the joint.
The joint wont run dry, but the nylon insert gets soft and is compressed by the heat.

I woke up in the night thinking exactly the same thing Anders Well worth a check.

Just why I woke up thinking about BX balljoints is another matter entirely Quite worrying actually.

[MikeT]

Well I recently had a balljoint replaced with a GSF one (can't remember the brand though) and my heat shield is missing so I'll let you know if mine suffers the same fate BX Bandit.

[CitroXim]

Well I recently had a balljoint replaced with a GSF one (can't remember the brand though) and my heat shield is missing so I'll let you know if mine suffers the same fate BX Bandit.

Yes Mike,

I was going to say, we really ought to replace yours. They're cheap from the Stealers and not a big job to do, much easier than replacing the balljoint again

[BX Bandit]

I tried to re-fit the shield but it didn't want to play at all. TBH I'd heard somewhere that they didn't actually do much anyway. Perhaps that's the problem then! I assumed that the rubber boot would deteriorate first but from what you say Anders it's an internal part that fails? I take it that the nylon part you mention is in the threaded portion of the joint fitted in the hub carrier? My initial thought was that the hub carrier would act as a heat sink but I suppose it does all get quite hot down there so maybe not!

Thanks ellevie, I'll have a look at the link.

[Geoffrey Gould]

Hello I dont know if this is at all relavent but I have come across something similar (not a citroen) where a couple of things have happened, the actual plain tapered part has protruded below the bottom face of the arm and the washer that went between the nut and arm was /had been left off. this was only a very small amount but prevented the pin from being fully drawn into the tapered hole. Given 'some' of the tolerances involved nowadays could this be happening. pin too long -- hole worn? From memory the torque is not an awful lot and some people tend to tighten thing up bl__dy tight, windy guns etc. The arms are not that hard.
Second point is that the two hammers and clout method of removal does work but I was warned many years ago not to because of the possible damage caused to the hole. Again this was not a Citroen (BMC/Jag) just a thought.
Cheers.
Geoff.

[docchevron]

Just why I woke up thinking about BX balljoints is another matter entirely Quite worrying actually.

I would get thee to a shrink pronto mate!

I threw my heat shields in the bin years ago, never had a problem with them cooking, although I'm far from the heaviest braker on earth..

[BX Bandit]

I am definitely guilty of overtightening the nut, the specified torque always seemed very low to me and thought it was a typo in haynes! I never went silly though. I understand what you mean Geoff, it's a good point and I'll check it out, although I know the current joint has had it for sure as it was wobbly last time I had it apart to replace the CV gaitor! Bloomin things are a pain!!

[cauchoiskev]

Just a thought, Bandit, but was it really the correct part in the first place ? How did you find out it was shot ?

The ball joint wears, particularly when the gaiter is ripped, but I can see no way that the tapered pin can wear...