16v air intake hose

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Philip Chidlow
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16v air intake hose

Post by Philip Chidlow »

Anyone got a spare one? Or indeed know where I can look (I've tried Edwards, locally - no luck).

It's the one that runs between the air intake on the top of the radiator to the air filter box. Fat and oval in shape I guess.
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Post by Kitch »

Split round one of the breathers? Try 205 GTi drivers.
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

What? Don't understand, Kitch. Sorry. :roll: :D
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Post by Mike P »

Phil,

The part you are looking for is S shaped and on the 16v is made of steel braided hose stuff that falls apart over time. I was told it was discontinued when I enquired at the local Citroen dealer about 4 years ago.

As an aside, on the early Phase 1 16 valves this part was actually plastic and in my opinion was superior to the later hose. Never fitted very well on any of my Phase 1s but at least it didn't deteriate.

I think Kitch is thinking that you are looking for the induction hose from the airbox to the throttle body that does have a breather take off.

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Post by Philip Chidlow »

I don't think that's what I'm looking for - what you describe, Mike is more akin to what I meant. I recently sold a Ph. 1 16v and can't remember what the pipe looked like - but the one that should be on my Ph. 2 isn't and it could well have deteriorated and been removed at some point. So you're saying a Ph. 1 plastic one might fit?

I guess I could try and find a pipe/hose somewhere, which is flexible enough to be squeezed over the oval attachment points and held in place with clips/ties.
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Post by Mike P »

For me a Phase 1 plastic one should fit.

The only reason I can think of for changing to a inferior material IMO was for ease of fitment. A hose doesn't have to line up perfectly with a fixed point at each end as the plastic piece would have too and effects a better seal when hose clipped onto the rad and airbox take offs.

Having had a lot of 16v's, I wouldn't worry too much if you can't find a replacement one. They run fine without it.

A HVAC / ducting supplier might be a good place to try, as they stock flexible ducting and a 1/2 meter offcut would be cheap. A couple of clips to make the round flex form to the oval shape of the rad cover and bingo, job done.

I have seen this done with a foil type flexible material and didn't rate it, punctures too easily and falls apart with age.

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Post by Philip Chidlow »

Thanks for the advice, chaps.
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Post by Kitch »

Ahhh, see what happens when I only read half the post? :lol:

I've got two of those kicking aorund somewhere....having a BX clear out shortly as it's all off the road and I'm concentrating on other things etc, I'll keep an eye out for them Phil.

I thought you meant the actually air intake pipe....rubber thing with two breather pipes that connect to it. They usually split which can screw up the idling.

As already said, you don't really need the air ducting pipe, although you're probably drawing in slightly more hot air without it....colder air makes for a sharper throttle.

What you really want is a cone filter though. Sounds like a chavvy add on, but on an engine that sucks as hard as a D6C, it makes sweet music :lol:
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

Cone filter, eh? Well sounds like a good idea - where? What? Which sort? How much? How does it fit on? etc...

If I can't even get the car to work with new HT leads - (although I will by heck) - what could fitting a cone filter screw up? :lol:

In the meantime if you do uncover a pipe that'll be good :D

As would a new set of injectors :lol: :wink:
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Post by Kitch »

Got loads of injectors, I'll look for the pipe.

Don't make the mistake of buying an "induction kit". They're normally silly money. I paid £27 for a Green (brand....and colour come to think of it!) cone filter, and £8 for a top hat adapter (allows a filter to bolt to the air flow meter). I've got the part numbers somewhere and got the parts from needforspeed.co.uk

Won't screw anything up at all....the engine breathes better. Only adjustment I made was to up the fuelling very slightly as it went a bit lean for the map and started pinking on hills. Went I chipped it, it went the other way! :lol:
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

Kitch wrote:Got loads of injectors, I'll look for the pipe.
Only adjustment I made was to up the fuelling very slightly as it went a bit lean for the map and started pinking on hills. Went I chipped it, it went the other way! :lol:
Thanks, Kitch. I would be interested in getting this BX to really fly as best she can without pulling the engine to bits.

How does one adjust the fuelling slightly?

And chipping? What, a Star Chip or something?
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Post by Kitch »

Yeah thats the theory I used. Performance without ripping the engine to bits (which I had to do in the end after I killed it :( )

The cone fitler replaces the entire airbox. Hardest part is to modify the base plate for the airbox to sit higher to mount the airbox to. I have loads spare if you need one. Its really not hard to do.

The chip is, believe it or not, a £30 job from ebay. I normally approach this kinda thing with caution, but its basically a simple chip designed as a direct replacement for the original one (not piggyback, its a proper one) which runs a pug sport map. Couldn't give you on-paper gains, but it pulls harder in 2nd and 3rd for sure. The rev limit is also raised to 7800rpm, although I've only hit it once and frankly you don't need to! While the standard 7200rpm cuts in slightly early as they're still on full chat at that point, there ain't much left after! I go to around 7400rpm or there abouts as the flat spot soon appears after. The heads good for 7500rpm in standard form, but prolonged bursts above will probably damage something, and I hear the block's good for 7800rpm, although some 205's run 8000rpm with standard crank and rods!

Shame I can't do an official 0-60mph run now, as it now does 60mph in 2nd gear (standard setup limits at 54mph.....and a gearchange can add up to a second to a timed run, so I could be running a sub 7second car for £30 plus P&P! :lol: A boy racer's dream!
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Post by mat_fenwick »

The only thing I would be wary of (and I'm not too familar with the airbox positioning, I know it's in front of the battery but that's it) is the risk of pulling it more warm air from the engine bay, rather than ducted cold air straight into the air box.
I take it you haven't found that a problem Kitch?
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Post by Philip Chidlow »

Interesting stuff. Thanks chaps. What a great forum.

Kitch, whereabouts are you? I am thinking it's be fun to drop by and we can do some fiddling on the valver. (Sounds odd :shock: but you know what I mean!)
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Post by Kitch »

Mat: I also thought about that, so was wary when I first fitted one. However it seems that alot of air passes through the cavernous gaps around the headlamp and inbetween the indicator which seems to provide it with lots of cool air.
I also know someone who cut out the fake vent on the N/S/F lower corner of the bumper and installed some ducting which went up through the flitch directly underneath the filter, although he was running individual T.B's so needed all the air he could get!

Phil: I'm in Winchester mate, probably a couple of hours from you. But tinkering is always welcome if you want to sight-see around England's original capital city! :lol: (not much to see though)
Let me know before I pack up all my BX gear and move it!
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