Bosch TD pump

[Jaba]

Still got a problem with my TD injection pump. The cold start module with a short bowden cable on the front of the pump only moves 2mm and does not advance/retard the injection timing properly.

Does anyone have a Bosch pump or just the arrowed cold start module that I can buy ?

[toddao]

Jaba. I sent you a PM..

[gazpacho andulus]

Ive got a complete engine and gear box to sell or break in east bristol including a Bosch pump. txd hatch

[Jaba]

You're a star. I will buy the complete pump from you -assuming its a Turbo pump.
I am only 1 hr from Brizzle so can come and help myself at your convenience.
Pricewise - let me know what you want. Might want a few more bits as well.

[DavidRutherford]

Just to stick my nose into this a little.. Stuart Hedges is currently on the lookout for a Bosch injeciton pump as his current lucas one is leaking a little and will cost £far-too-much to fix.

Don't need the cold-advance unit, but I wonder if there's a pump available here?

Oh, and PS... the cold start units almost never work on these. I think they work for about 2-3 years from new, then die in the "hot" position. It barely makes any difference to the running at all.

[Jaba]

I have a spare Lucas pump if its any use to Stuart.

As far as my cold start unit is concerned - yes it has sort of died but it does move 2mm so is not completely dead. My problem is that I dont know if it is opening enough. There is a stop but the arm connected to the cable gets nowhere near it when hot.
Can anyone with a Bosch pump confirm what their gap is when hot.

[Jaba]

SORRY DOUBLE ENTRY

[ed4ferrets]

Ive got a complete engine and gear box to sell or break in east bristol including a Bosch pump. txd hatch

To clarify what gazpacho said, this is a n/a diesel engine and pump.

[DavidRutherford]

I have a spare Lucas pump if its any use to Stuart.

A TD one? Leak free? If so that would be very useful. Thanks.

As far as my cold start unit is concerned - yes it has sort of died but it does move 2mm so is not completely dead.

That's more alive than any other I've ever seen. I have a Bosch pump and it doesn't move at all. I've had other Bosch 17TD-type injection pumps on 405TD's, and none of them worked either. I plan to remove the waxstat bit from my current one and have a cable into the interior so that I can choose what advance I want, as it's beneficial to run with more advance when running on high % of SVO.

[Jaba]

OK David thanks for the info.
What is the correct gap for a hot engine ? It looks to me as if my waxstat is not extending fully. There is still a 6mm gap (marked in yellow) on the pic. I would expect it to extend fully against the stop.

Why am I worried ? Well its smokey, on the MOT limit and this replacement engine uses 10% more fuel than before.

I suppose I could experiment by releasing the cable but I am looking for help from a BX Club member wot knows or can look at their own car before I start fiddling around.
I have screwed things up too many times before when I ignore the if it ain't broke don't fix it rule.

[jonathan_dyane]

Jaba,

I really think you may be looking in the wrong direction here.

If you want to rule out the waxstat, disconect it and cable tie the lever on the pump to the drivers side of the pump (although IIRC it is spring-loaded to return here anyway)

As I suggested in your other thresd, I still think the timing is worth a look...

[DavidRutherford]

although IIRC it is spring-loaded to return here anyway

Indeed... with a fairly powerful spring.

If the Waxstat has failed, then simply remove the end from the cable and ignore it. The lever certainly looks like it's in the "hot running" position to me.

[DavidRutherford]

Why am I worried ? Well its smokey,

What colour?

on the MOT limit

Does it get an "at the MOT limit" every time, or is it dirtyer and then comes down when revved a load?

and this replacement engine uses 10% more fuel than before.

Timing. I bet the injection pump is badly timed to the engine. Either that or the injectors are tired.

I suppose I could experiment by releasing the cable

Do that. All that will happen is the engine will default to the "hot" running position. Start the engine, and then with a biiig screwdriver, move the lever across towards the gearbox side of the engine. You should hear the engine note change (will become louder, harsher, more clattery) Then release the lever and the engine note will become softer. If it doesn't do that, report back.

[Jaba]

David wrote :

What colour?

Well, not grey, not blue sort of brownish

David wrote :

Does it get an "at the MOT limit" every time, or is it dirtyer and then comes down when revved a load?

What I mean is at the MOT two weeks ago the smoke test was1.49. The limit shown was 1.50. Last year it was around 0.85. It puffs out the most smoke when accelerating in the lower gears . I know they all do this - but this is a bit excessive.

I will have a play with the cable adjustment, but PLEASE doesn't anyone have a Bosch pump who can tell me what gap is normal for this cold start advance lever.

[DavidRutherford]

The gap is fairly irrelevant. What matters is the angle of the lever.

However, that matters not at all if the pump is badly timed to the engine. It also won't make much difference if the injectors are tired and have a bad spray pattern or dribble a bit.

at the MOT two weeks ago the smoke test was1.49. The limit shown was 1.50. Last year it was around 0.85. It puffs out the most smoke when accelerating in the lower gears . I know they all do this - but this is a bit excessive.

TBH, that is fairly meaningless. What would be interesting would be to see the results of sucessive runs. If it starts at 5.0 and then comes down to 1.5 and is still dropping, then the chances are it's just sooty due to gentle driving. If it gets 1.5 every single run and doesn't change much then you do indeed have something like poor timing / tired injectors etc.

I suspect a set of recon injectors and timing the pump to the engine will see your MPG improve and the smoke test result fall. There could of course be other problems in the pump (I've experienced complete pump failure in the past) but if it starts OK and runs fine otherwise I doubt it's serious.