BX17 TZD issues

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tlampre
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BX17 TZD issues

Post by tlampre »

Hello all, this is my first post, although I have lurked here for quite a while.

I am the new owner of the BX17 TZD formerly owned by Roscoe. It's not my first BX, I've had petrol engined cars before, a 16TRS, a 19TRi and a 16v.

While working on it this weekend I noticed that the crankshaft pulley has a wobble. Unfortunately it was too late in the day to jack the car back up and see if it just needed tightening.

If I need to replace it, are they the same as that used on the petrol cars or will I need to import one?

Also, I want to replace the coolant hoses behind the engine as my main driving is a 1500km return trip interstate every few weeks. Summer is coming and that means the occasional 40C+ day. I've been doing this for over three years now and lost more cars due to cooling system failures than anything else so I'm a bit paranoid about it.

There are three hoses with stainless steel braiding. I have managed to acquire 2, but the third, the longest one, remains elusive. Can anyone advise a part number and where I might be able to buy it by mail order to Australia?

Thanks and regards,
Trevor
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toddao
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Post by toddao »

Hello and welcome,

Is that the only diesel BX in Aus? If the camshaft pulley is wobbling this also begs the question what is the condition of the cam-belt? Unless you know when it was changed, better to change that or if it was changed recently-ish, perhaps the pulleys were neglected?

There's a recent post on here regarding the importance of maintaining the BX diesel cooling, especally when you've got those sort of temps! If you're worried then it's better to flush the whole systen through, radiator etc and check thermostat and fan switching at appropriate temp. My fan switch was tempermental and it was €3 for a replacement. Many BX diesels have met their maker through cooling issues and better to get it all working proper than be facing a head gasket job.

I'm sure they'll be more suggestion coming, plus those part numbers.
We're descending into winter here in Europe so 40 degrees sounds alright to me!
Todd


this yellow writing is really hard to read
tlampre
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Post by tlampre »

Thanks, Todd.

It may well be the only series 2 turbo diesel in Australia. I've been told there are a couple of series 1 19RD's around but nobody has heard of a TZD.

The cam belt was done not long ago, it had snapped and Roscoe rebuilt it all so the head gasket is recent too. He looked after it really well. I saw it about 18 months ago when I drove up to Sydney to buy some parts for my TRi. When he put it up for sale a couple of months ago I jumped at it. One of the nicest BX's in Oz.

He did a lot of work on the cooling, it has a new radiator, some new hoses and a coolant gauge fitted. I just wired up the oil temp gauge and replaced the top radiator hose this weekend. Also put in a metric speedo and a new cable. Very happy about that, not so happy that my rebuilt FDV is being stupid

I'll be getting someone else to replace the hoses as I can't move the engine far enough forward to get at it. I have a brand new doseur as well that I will have installed. I only have a carport that faces west and gets blisteringly hot by mid afternoon, so big jobs have to be outsourced once I've tracked down all the parts.
tlampre
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Post by tlampre »

Hi, any advice on the pulley would be gratefully received. It is bolted on tight. GSF and a couple of other places I've bought from tell me they can't supply.

Is the pulley a solid metal thing, or a rubberised harmonic balancer? I couldn't really tell is there wasn't much light while checking it just now.
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ken newbold
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Post by ken newbold »

I think the turbo ones are solid metal and the n/a ones are rubberized.

I'll have a look and see if I have one. I'll post it out at cost if I have.
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tlampre
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Post by tlampre »

Hi Ken, thanks very much.
tlampre
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Post by tlampre »

Hi, managed to buy a pulley locally yesterday and have the hose coming from France in a week or two.

I would like to try and replace the pulley tomorrow but I'm wondering if this is something I'll end up giving up on with colourful language seeing that my longest bar is only about 2 feet and I'm a weakling.

Is it left or right hand thread?
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Post by docchevron »

Why does your name seem so familiar?
Were the dude that stayed in Bristol for a while with a Black 16 valve that I bought??

You'll almost vertainly want more than 2' of leverage, although if you have access to something like a scaffold tube you can slide over the breaker bar that'll do!

Standard thread, anti-clockwise to undo, clockwise to do up.

And yes, as Ken said, N/A diesels had rubberised dampers, TD's are plain steel pulleys.
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tlampre
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Post by tlampre »

docchevron1472 wrote:Why does your name seem so familiar?
Were the dude that stayed in Bristol for a while with a Black 16 valve that I bought??

You'll almost vertainly want more than 2' of leverage, although if you have access to something like a scaffold tube you can slide over the breaker bar that'll do!

Standard thread, anti-clockwise to undo, clockwise to do up.

And yes, as Ken said, N/A diesels had rubberised dampers, TD's are plain steel pulleys.
I was on Aussiefrogs for a while before I left the BX owners fold a year ago. You probably remember me from there.

Looks like I'll be unlikely to get the old one off. I don't have anything I can use to get more leverage. Really want to swap it over and see what is wrong though, looking at the new one I can't see how the heck such a thing could ever get bent.

Regards,
Trevor
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Post by tom »

A whack with a rock can do it. As for taking the brute off, it is reckoned by some that heating up the bolt head with a blowtorch is a good insurance. The bolt has been known to snap in the crank. They use a strong locking agent on it. I've always used a rattlegun on it without ill effect and I suggest you go to the nearest garage with one of those and buy somebody a beer.
tlampre
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Post by tlampre »

Thanks, Tom. You've given me the excuse I needed to wimp out and let someone else do it.

I was hoping to send it in to the workshop to get the hoses and doseur replaced next week as the third hose arrived today. But, alas, it is the wrong part. Actually a solid pipe. Oh well, they can replace that too.

So now I have to find the correct part number but I need to make sure I've identified the right hose this time. There are three stainless steel braided rubber hoses that run between the engine and firewall. Two of them go into the heater core, I have those. The third comes out of the block on the drivers side and goes around the back to, um, somewhere... I'm now suspecting it goes to the coolant bottle. Can any one confirm this?
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Jaba
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Post by Jaba »

Yep, thats the long one from the engine block return to the expansion tank.
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tlampre
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Post by tlampre »

Great! Thanks. Now I just have to hope they have one instock locally rather than wait another 10 days ex-France.
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