early bx temperature gauge woes and rear suspension sinking

[kevlights]

hi ! im new to the forum and would like to thank you all for the enthusiasm and knowledge displayed here and hope you can help a couple of annoying little prolems we have with the silver and green BX we have recently bought: 1986 BX16 TRS manual, carb model Weber,

(A) first the temperature gauge on the dash doesnt go, its the same model dash as this picture
http://www.bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6689
hope i may use this to show what im talking about iwould like to get the gauge to go, as it feels funny/apprehensive to me , to drive with out that info

(B) also the back suspension sinks down much faster than the front, making it look like its squating, slightly rude !!with the back end down and front end up, how do i go about curing this thanks regards Kev
oh the car has done 114,00 miles, the back end will come up once the engine is started but the car doent sink down evenly sinking faster at the back

[Aerodynamica]

Hi mate, I too have just acquired the same BX model, a Mk1 16TRS and gauge above the fuel gauge on mine does not work. Is this the one you mean? I don't think it's a temp gauge but an oil level meter that only operates when you start up the engine then it goes to rest again. Mine however, does nothing (tho it does light up)

Mine also sinks at the rear
This was it the morning after I arrived home with it


However, that was 2 days ago and now I have already rebuilt the front height corrector and its linkage. So what? well the rear end still sinks down but now the front end sinks too - previously it stayed propped up.

If the rear end is sinking quickly, often it's caused by extra pressure loss through the brake doseur valve in addition to the normal leakage of the struts and height correctors.

[mountainmanUK]

Totally agree with Graeme regarding the gauge; it acts as an oil-level gauge, when the ignition is first turned on. As soon as the engine fires up, it returns to the bottom.

My TXD used to sink a lot faster at the rear, with the front usually staying 'up' all night! However, since I drained all the old LHM out, and refilled her with Hydrorincage (Hydraflush - available from GSF for around £15 for 5ltrs), she now stayts up all night all round! I'm keeping the Hydraflush in for about 1500 miles, then draining and refilling with nice. clean LHM.
It would appear that not only the suspension, but also the power steering and brakes, seem a tad sharper now too.......probably due to 15 years of crud finally being flushed!

Hope this helps.
Dave

[Debelix]

By the way, except flushing with "hydraurincage" (or whatever the name) it's strongly recommended to clean the filters in the LHM tank, because all of the dirt flushed by the cleaning oil will come and stick to them. The easiest way to clean them (after removing them ofcource) is using petrol or some kind of paint solvent. The effect after that is astonishing, even without changing the LHM oil!

Generally the rear sink faster mainly because of the doseur valve - cleaning the system will help only for a while, and sooner or later you will have to change it. Another sign that the d.valve is worn out is a weak noise of swishing when pressing (and especially when releasing) the brake. The noise is exactly the same as the one that classical mother-in-law emits lately at night if she's disturbed

Changing is very easy, and it's fully compatible with the Xantia ones with simple hydropneumatic suspension - personally I've changed mine using "new" one from a Xantia '98. Brand new around here costs about 70 quids (about 200 in bg money).

[toddao]

Hello Kev and welcome,

there's no temperature gauge, only a two stage warning light system. You must run the car til it's hot to check that the fan cuts in and out before the flashing light comes on ( the first stage is 96 degrees?). If it doesn't, check the fan by bridging the contacts at the thermal switch on the back of the radiator. This switch too can be dodgy but is cheap to replace. Also thermostat, state of rad must be ascertained if there's any doubts etc.

Some people here have fitted after-market temperature gauges as unless you know the cooling system is in good working order it can be a little risky to rely on a flashing light. There are some digital LED after market gauges that I have considered fitting to my car as I think that would be more in keeping with the style of the early dash

[kevlights]

when is a temperature gauge not a temperature gauge ?? I bet that particular quirk of galic electrical enginnering has cost a few quid,euros Dollars, in over heating repair costs !
I dont like not being able to monitor water temp ! naa , hate it its got to go, will try to wire in a water temp gauge ;
although the haynes manual chapter 3 section 4 cooling ,mentions a temperature gauge ,but alsomentions two temp warning lights one to come on at 105 oC and another to come on at 112 oC, isnt that too late? surely its over heated by then??
the reason im so paraniod about over heating is the it happened before to me in a Lancia Beta (Fiat) when the radiator cooling fan failed to operate and the same circuit controlled the dash warning lights ;
in a early MK I BX ,roller drum speddo model; has any body had their warning light come on ?, is it a common problem, and should i be worried about it ? thanks for your advise and help regards Kev

[kevlights]

HI !Debelix thanks for that suggestion
,i think trying to put new seals in the douseur brake valve could be a bit beyond me ; ie .too chicken shit to try it ,besides swapping parts is called mechanical repairs,in what passes for garages these days, and i can do that !!
,so Im on the hunt for a, new to me, 98 xanita brake valve( douseur) wish me luck .
thanks to all you other citroen fans who know the ins and outs, im still learning so will be back if and when i strike any more problems thanks Cheers Kev

[Debelix]

It's ok to use brake valve from any Xantia regardless of her year of "birth" Just make sure that it's with simple hydropneumatic suspension, not the Hydractive or Hydractive 2 etc. Good luck!

[tom]

The BX has two warning lights, known as the game over warning light which is yellow and the blown engine warning light which is red. You can test them by pulling the sensor wires off at the thermostat housing and grounding each in turn.

A proper temperature gauge is preferred. In the links from the homepage, you'll find instructions on the BX-DIY site for using one that matches the mk 2 dash.
Of the few things you can do to stop it getting hot in the first place, I'd suggest checking and cleaning every connection through the fan wiring and replacing the switch with a new one as they switch at higher temperatures as they age. Flush the radiator and heater matrix, fit a new pressure cap and thermostat before filling with the right stuff. BXs don't often spit their headgaskets if they are properly looked after