Coolant leak
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Coolant leak
hi guy's,
this is on a 1.9D TZD, the pipe returning from the oil cooler to the radiator has a large hole in it, not a crack but a circular hole in it caused by a bolt off another part. this pipe though, does not go directly to the radiator it connects to a T junction that then goes to the rad and a thick pipe goes behind the engine. to change the pipe with the hole do i have to change the whole thing including the T junction and pipe behind engine or does it just come out of the T junction?
If it is not able to come out of the T junction what does everone think to cutting it off and getting a internal connector to connect a new pipe to the old pipe. Does anyone know where I could get one of these connectors from or how i could make one? Would have to be jubileed on as it is under radiator pressure.
If anyone has encountered this before or has any suggestions it would be much appreciated.
thankyou.
J
this is on a 1.9D TZD, the pipe returning from the oil cooler to the radiator has a large hole in it, not a crack but a circular hole in it caused by a bolt off another part. this pipe though, does not go directly to the radiator it connects to a T junction that then goes to the rad and a thick pipe goes behind the engine. to change the pipe with the hole do i have to change the whole thing including the T junction and pipe behind engine or does it just come out of the T junction?
If it is not able to come out of the T junction what does everone think to cutting it off and getting a internal connector to connect a new pipe to the old pipe. Does anyone know where I could get one of these connectors from or how i could make one? Would have to be jubileed on as it is under radiator pressure.
If anyone has encountered this before or has any suggestions it would be much appreciated.
thankyou.
J
- jonathan_dyane
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- mat_fenwick
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I've done the same...it may help the rubber pipe to grip if you get hold of a solder ring fitting used to join 2 pipes togther (like the one at the top of this link). Then cut one in half and solder one half to each end of the copper pipe.
- DavidRutherford
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Alternatively, just about any motor factor I've known keeps a collection of plastic pipe fittings from about washer-hose size up to main radiator hose size. Usually these include a straight connector in them, so you could just cut the hose at the damage and then re-join it.
this might be a signature
True, but probably easier, cleaner & cheaper to solder 'compression olives' just after each end of the pipe for the same benefit. (You need to use separate flux & solder after cleaning) This is then more secure because it is still all the same pipe.mat_fenwick wrote:I've done the same...it may help the rubber pipe to grip if you get hold of a solder ring fitting used to join 2 pipes togther (like the one at the top of this link). Then cut one in half and solder one half to each end of the copper pipe.
1991 BX19GTi Auto
- docchevron
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- maxgreenwood
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they're 17.50 from gsf.
N17912 RAD HOSE BOTTOM BX DIESEL (WITH T PIECE) BOTTOM 17.50
I got one by mistake for my TD TZD, sitting here in a cupboard..
i could get a quote on postage for you?
N17912 RAD HOSE BOTTOM BX DIESEL (WITH T PIECE) BOTTOM 17.50
I got one by mistake for my TD TZD, sitting here in a cupboard..
i could get a quote on postage for you?
'92 16TXS (m), Dark metallic green, 74k
'90 16TZS (m), White, 86k
'89 19TRS auto, Olympic Blue, 133k
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'07 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 CRDi 85k (m). Practical family wagon
'90 16TZS (m), White, 86k
'89 19TRS auto, Olympic Blue, 133k
'88 Saab 900 8v Turbo (auto) 107k Red with Tan leather, lovely drive and well maintained.
'07 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 CRDi 85k (m). Practical family wagon
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