Owning a TD BX
- Tim Leech
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Owning a TD BX
Ive had oodles of BXs over the years but this is the first TD Ive owned and actually used, just a quick post to ask is there any does and donts as I dont want to break it. Of course aw with any car I wont be thrashing it from cold and as its a turbo I will let her idle for a bit afte a run to let the turbo cool.
Thanks.
NB: Oil and filter were changed today with quality semi synth and a genuine filter.
Thanks.
NB: Oil and filter were changed today with quality semi synth and a genuine filter.
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....
- Philip Chidlow
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I've had TD ZXs and I guess it's pretty much the same. AFAIK what you've described is pretty much the way I treated a TD. I put brand new glow plus in though, which helped cut smokiness on start up etc. Not really a technique though, I guess
• 1992 Citroen BX TZD Turbo Hurricane
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- Sir Jim of the Databases
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TDs thrive on hard work Tim
As said and additionally, always make sure the cooling system is in top-flight nick. Coolant must be 50/50 antifreeze/water and swapped at least every two years. Make sure the rad is hot all over and swap it quick if it has leaks or cold spots.
make sure the electric fans work faultlessly, both slow and fast. You'll have no temp. gauge so check regularly all aspects of cooling. Cooling faults kill HGs.
Swap oil and filter every 3000miles. They will then go on for ever and a day.
As said and additionally, always make sure the cooling system is in top-flight nick. Coolant must be 50/50 antifreeze/water and swapped at least every two years. Make sure the rad is hot all over and swap it quick if it has leaks or cold spots.
make sure the electric fans work faultlessly, both slow and fast. You'll have no temp. gauge so check regularly all aspects of cooling. Cooling faults kill HGs.
Swap oil and filter every 3000miles. They will then go on for ever and a day.
Jim
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- BX Bandit
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As citrojim says, thoroughly check, correct and maintain the cooling system. If the coolant has any rust colour in it, then it hasn't had proper antifreeze levels or renewel at the correct intervals. . If so, then be very prudent in checking the rad for cold spots. In this weather, the car needs to idle for almost 60 mins to get the fans to come in. Once they have, then have a good feel of the rad. Any cold spots dictate a replacement rad.
Also, keep to a main brand diesel. Although there has always been speculation over supermarket fuels, bare with me on this with relation to diesel fuel:
"Although the basic diesel fuel is all essentially the same, irrespective of where it is sold or who sells it, each fuel retailer will add their own specific additives. Over time, rubber seals within the fuel system absorb the various additives. BUT, to offer cut price fuel, supermarkets will skimp on the additives and so when you fill up, the 'neat' diesel leeches out any additives from the seals and consequently they shrink/crack and leak. (The above is from an official transport book made available to a company I used to work for that assembled refuse collection vehicles)"
Although it could be coincidence, the diaghram that controls the additional fuel required during boost perished just a few hundred miles after filling up with supermarket fuel at the old 5P/litre reduction. That was on a lucas pump btw.
If starting gets lumpy, it sometimes isn't the suspect glow plugs (check them to be sure). I've tested all mine, cleaned all contacts but it still sometimes starts lumpy. I've had it on both TD's I've had. However, once the glowplug light has extinguished, if you turn off and then turn on the ignition and do a double preheat, then to date they have both started perfectly. I can only assume it's swirl chamber related as the little 'caps' have a tendancy to crack (or just let it start lumpy and let it sort itself out over a few seconds)
I'm also not convinced that a semi syth is the best way to go (but i could be wrong on this so check it out). I forget the reasons why I'm not convinced as it's something I've read in the forgettable past!
Also, if you're checking dash bulbs, make sure the yellow and red 'coolant too hot' lamps are working.
Cambelt, tensioner pulley and idler pulley should be checked and replaced and whilst you're there you may want to do the water pump depending on how old it is. I think it's every 48k miles for the cam belt. For the potential hassle I'd do bot idler and tensioner pulleys at 48k. Also examine the aux belt. At 100k the g/box oil should be replaced so make sure it was done. As the car is to be used on the bxathon then you don't want to take chances (although you'll be in the right country at least)
Also, keep to a main brand diesel. Although there has always been speculation over supermarket fuels, bare with me on this with relation to diesel fuel:
"Although the basic diesel fuel is all essentially the same, irrespective of where it is sold or who sells it, each fuel retailer will add their own specific additives. Over time, rubber seals within the fuel system absorb the various additives. BUT, to offer cut price fuel, supermarkets will skimp on the additives and so when you fill up, the 'neat' diesel leeches out any additives from the seals and consequently they shrink/crack and leak. (The above is from an official transport book made available to a company I used to work for that assembled refuse collection vehicles)"
Although it could be coincidence, the diaghram that controls the additional fuel required during boost perished just a few hundred miles after filling up with supermarket fuel at the old 5P/litre reduction. That was on a lucas pump btw.
If starting gets lumpy, it sometimes isn't the suspect glow plugs (check them to be sure). I've tested all mine, cleaned all contacts but it still sometimes starts lumpy. I've had it on both TD's I've had. However, once the glowplug light has extinguished, if you turn off and then turn on the ignition and do a double preheat, then to date they have both started perfectly. I can only assume it's swirl chamber related as the little 'caps' have a tendancy to crack (or just let it start lumpy and let it sort itself out over a few seconds)
I'm also not convinced that a semi syth is the best way to go (but i could be wrong on this so check it out). I forget the reasons why I'm not convinced as it's something I've read in the forgettable past!
Also, if you're checking dash bulbs, make sure the yellow and red 'coolant too hot' lamps are working.
Cambelt, tensioner pulley and idler pulley should be checked and replaced and whilst you're there you may want to do the water pump depending on how old it is. I think it's every 48k miles for the cam belt. For the potential hassle I'd do bot idler and tensioner pulleys at 48k. Also examine the aux belt. At 100k the g/box oil should be replaced so make sure it was done. As the car is to be used on the bxathon then you don't want to take chances (although you'll be in the right country at least)
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- jonathan_dyane
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Interesting stuff Bandit. I'm with you on the oil front, I am fully prepared to be proved wrong but it is my personal belief based entirely on gut feeling that semi or full synthetic oil is not the best choice for the XUD, particularly at elevated mileages. I would only bother with it if I had something with hydraulic tappets like some of the nineties onwards VAG diesels and the MB OM601, or any of the modern common rail crap. Hydraulic tappets are always a risk on a diesel what with the crud that ends up in the oil; the very reason the XUD was fitted with solid tappets was to avoid this weakness.
On supermarket diesel, I have to say I buy purely on price, which often means supermarket, and I have yet to have problems. Perhaps tomorrow
Oh and Tim, I think you might end up keeping this one, the TD BX's are fab. Fast, refined and frugal; what more could you wish for? As the others have said however, don't neglect the cooling...
On supermarket diesel, I have to say I buy purely on price, which often means supermarket, and I have yet to have problems. Perhaps tomorrow
Oh and Tim, I think you might end up keeping this one, the TD BX's are fab. Fast, refined and frugal; what more could you wish for? As the others have said however, don't neglect the cooling...
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- DavidRutherford
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I agree on the oil front. I've always run XUDs (and other engines of similar age/design) on high-ish quality mineral oil, and just changed it regularly. IMO it has to be better for an engine to get a £6 sumpfull of fresh oil every 5k miles rather than a £20 sumpfull every 10k. I woulnd't take that to an extreme and start using something like Tesco Value Motor oil at £3 for 4 litres, as I doubt it actually lubricates, but buying oil in 205L drums (as I do) means you can get decent oil for just over £1/litre.
In the past, I've had XUDs that are a bit ropey, and simply changed the oil every 1000 miles for 5k miles. Made quite a remarkable difference to the running.
In the past, I've had XUDs that are a bit ropey, and simply changed the oil every 1000 miles for 5k miles. Made quite a remarkable difference to the running.
this might be a signature
- Tim Leech
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Thanks for all the info guys, the cooling system has fresh clean green coolant in it and the heater is fantastic, as for the oil on the chart that was the "recommended" one for it but will probably drop it out again soon enough and get something thicker, however the oil was changed religiously every 6k according to stcikers all over the slam panel, the old oil that came out was black but not full "gloopy", my mechanic friend said "ive seen alot worse".
I am awaiting to hear back from the previous owner to when the cambelt was last changed, she's doing a 200 mile run sunday so lets see how she does.!
I am awaiting to hear back from the previous owner to when the cambelt was last changed, she's doing a 200 mile run sunday so lets see how she does.!
Lots of Motors, mostly semi broken....
- docchevron
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Semi is a tad crap in a diesel. Diesel oil has detergents specifically designed for diesels. Semi does have dstergents, but not as good.
Equally, semi is a total waste of time if you're changing the oil every 3, 4 or 5 K miles. I'd have said 6K miles is pushing it a tad, especially if the car was used for shortish journeys on a regular basis.
A good quality 15/40 or 15/50 designed for diesels is the way to go everytime here.
Especially on a high mileage engine.
Equally, semi is a total waste of time if you're changing the oil every 3, 4 or 5 K miles. I'd have said 6K miles is pushing it a tad, especially if the car was used for shortish journeys on a regular basis.
A good quality 15/40 or 15/50 designed for diesels is the way to go everytime here.
Especially on a high mileage engine.
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!
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Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
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Gotta agree with the oil situation, although the bigger debate is how to stay awake when you're driving it I reckon.
oooohh....that sounded like a can opening
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- docchevron
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Easy, turn the stereo up with some prog rock on, or in my case, hit the loud pedal and the sound of the turbine trying to shit itself out the exhaust keeps me awake!
Smokes lots, because enough's enough already!
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
Far too many BX's, a bus, an ambulance a few trucks, not enough time and never enough cash...
- docchevron
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BX TD
Hi All, I am new to this and to you!!
I may writing this in the wrong place, if so I apologise. My name is Allie and I am looking at a BX TD tomorrow, with a view serious view to buying. I have been looking at your forum for some help and hints for anything to look for when buying it. So if any one can help would really appreciate it.
And hopefully will be looking to learn abit about the car and participate a bit>
Cheers
Mcbride [Allie]
I may writing this in the wrong place, if so I apologise. My name is Allie and I am looking at a BX TD tomorrow, with a view serious view to buying. I have been looking at your forum for some help and hints for anything to look for when buying it. So if any one can help would really appreciate it.
And hopefully will be looking to learn abit about the car and participate a bit>
Cheers
Mcbride [Allie]
- Philip Chidlow
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Obviously there are general BX areas you need to be aware of - and I remember there was a thread about this a while back. Maybe searching might throw something up. But apart from obvious leaks, broken or missing parts, your biggest concern must be rust. Check the front inner wings, front subframme and A pillars.
The front door hinges are a regular rust spot. Repairs there are not unusual. Check the sills all along their length especially around the jacking points and where they meet the rear arch. Check the rear arch panel - you will usually find rust there. Check the condition of the rear suspension spheres. Open the boot and tap around its edges twords the rear - boot floors often go above where the exhaust is. Check for corrosion on the rear exhaust hanger area. The filler neck can sometimes be a problem area too. Check the carpets for damp. If you find the front footwell wet, it is probably the sunroof drain holes blocked and there may be damage due to this. But it could also be the heater matrix.
Advice about the engine should come from others on here as they are a mine of information!
The front door hinges are a regular rust spot. Repairs there are not unusual. Check the sills all along their length especially around the jacking points and where they meet the rear arch. Check the rear arch panel - you will usually find rust there. Check the condition of the rear suspension spheres. Open the boot and tap around its edges twords the rear - boot floors often go above where the exhaust is. Check for corrosion on the rear exhaust hanger area. The filler neck can sometimes be a problem area too. Check the carpets for damp. If you find the front footwell wet, it is probably the sunroof drain holes blocked and there may be damage due to this. But it could also be the heater matrix.
Advice about the engine should come from others on here as they are a mine of information!
• 1992 Citroen BX TZD Turbo Hurricane
• 2006 Xsara Picasso 1.6 16v
• 2006 Xsara Picasso 1.6 16v
Purchasing a BX
Thank you! will print off and run a check list tomorrow
Regards
Mcbride
Regards
Mcbride