Things left to do on ma car - some advice saught

[Vanny]

Firstly (least important) - brakes!
I recon they have air in them (quite a bit) and it makes sence since i've had the calipers off! Whats the procedure for bleeding them? doe sthe suspension have to be under load at just the back? Do i just need to bleed from the one i took off?
Normally i'd just bleed the lot with the engine running, but having killed one caliper already getting the nipples out im a little dubious!

Fit rear leather head rests - just need collection

strut leak off pipes - NSF doddle

Change Crank pulley - kindo of broke a piece off the replacement for £5, have impact gun so should be easy! can do the following at the same time;

Alternator is dead, no output charge (well only gets upto 12.4v) anyone got a spare for a Xantia TD?

New aux pulley belt and finally gonna put a tensioner on, just figured out how to do it!

Fix NSF electric window
was doing some playing a while ago and now it doesn't work! fuses all fine, other window works fine, so not sure what i've done to it. I was trying to fit one up down to the NSF, it didnt work! any suggestions?

[Mike E (uk)]

Hi Vanny,

I recommend replacing the brake caliper bleed screws anyway,ASAP.

The longer you leave them the harder they will be to remove.
You will be glad you did next time you bleed them!

To bleed mine,I put it in max high mode, take off the wheels and stand the hubs arms on axle stands, and release the jack.
I put weight in the back too, but this probably is not necessary.

Then I bleed it like a 'normal' car,with the motor running.
If the car was serviced by a franchise, expect the old LHM from the brakes to look like old tea, because they seem to think that draining and filling the reservoir is a complete fluid change.

Mike

[mnde]

Firstly (least important) - brakes!
I recon they have air in them (quite a bit) and it makes sence since i've had the calipers off! Whats the procedure for bleeding them? doe sthe suspension have to be under load at just the back? Do i just need to bleed from the one i took off?
Normally i'd just bleed the lot with the engine running, but having killed one caliper already getting the nipples out im a little dubious!

Those damned nipples. My Cit garage snapped both at the front a couple of years ago and they charged me for recon calipers (but not for labour).

I would'a thought, bleed both fronts. And like the GS, I think do it with engine off at normal height: bleed one, close nipple, restart engine to recharge the accumulator, then bleed the other. I was told for the GS if you do it with engine running the pressure emulsifies the fluid spurting out.

Rears need to be done in high position to get the requisite pressure in the rear circuits. Good luck with them nipples!

Mark.

[cavmad]

Fix NSF electric window
was doing some playing a while ago and now it doesn't work! fuses all fine, other window works fine, so not sure what i've done to it. I was trying to fit one up down to the NSF, it didnt work! any suggestions?[/quote]

Yes! Check where the wiring goes in on the o/s/f (driver`s) door. It will have a plastic or rubber shield around it which can be cut gently and carefully with a Stanley/craft knife.
My bet is that if you check carefully one or two of the wires will have come adrift-they are a tight fit and constant opening of door over the years makes them fray and eventually snap.
If I recall rightly it`ll be a white coloured wire that will have snapped.

[jeremy]

I think the window motors have some form of cut off in them or the brushes get sticky. My NSF one has been a little trouble prone for the whole time I've had the car but in fact the wiring has always tested OK even if the switches get dirty.

What I have found is that the thing is prone to sticking in the down position and naturally it did it for the first time while I was on holiday. It was one of those frustrating things - take the door trim off and start fidling and it works again. I ran it up and down a few times using another battery (direct supply - no car electrics to confuse the situation) and found that when it stuck - if I hit it quite hard it would work again.

Haynes diagram shows some gubbins in series with the motors in their diagram and some form of overload device is common on other cars.

It may be that a bit of gentle dismantling around where the wires go in may reveal all but if I remember correctly the motor is sealed with rubber or plastic.

Remember the passenger side motor probably has had very little use and is unlikely to be worn out.

jeremy

[Vanny]

Just to clarify the NSF window situation.
I might have had some sparks out of it when i was playing Didnt blow a fuse, and the relay still works as does the OSF window. I like the idea of there being an overload portection on it, could well be the answer!
I'm more than happy fixing the wiring, but cant quite get my head reound how to fit the oneupone down to the NSF with the magic button on the right and left of the car! Just a little project i'm sure you'll agree, anyone tried it?

[tom]

Yes and it is a piece of cake if you know what you are doing. WHat you've done though is buggered up the switch in the driver's door which is why the electrons aren't going to the passenger's. Make it work properly first because you will save a lot of debug time when you come to fit the one touch.

[Vanny]

Well i was doing it off the spur of the moment without any wiring diagrams and a hang over, so probably not the best idea!

Are the two systems (front left and front right) totally seperate? The one up one down works fine on the drivers door. Really need to get the magic book out.