Headlamp Modifications

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Sat May 29, 2010 9:04 am

Mike E (uk) wrote:Wilst you are experimenting with the lights, I can heartily recommend the dash illumination mod, so the dials are only lit when you switch the lights on.

I've done that too, actually a slight variation where the dials are only illuminated with the sidelights AND ignition on (using a relay and a handily placed sidelight wire near the rheostat).

rayfenwick · Post by **rayfenwick** » Sat May 29, 2010 9:12 am

What's the preferred way of doing it, and also, where's the best place to pick up the switched +ve for the stereo? Someone's really hacked about with the stereo wiring...

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Sat May 29, 2010 11:48 am

Not sure if it's the 'best' way, but the way I did it was cut the wire from the rheostat and put in a relay. The relay coil was connected to a sidelight feed from (I think) the mirror switch illumination, and earth.
Regarding the stereo - as bought mine didn't have a switched ignition live or the sidelight illumination, someone had done a passable job of fitting an ISO connector to the original wiring. I took both feeds from the clock, and ran them down inside the dash.

electrokid · Post by **electrokid** » Sat May 29, 2010 5:30 pm

Hi Mike,

I can heartily recommend the dash illumination mod

Something similar is on the drawing board / fag packet.

replace the relays with SENSEFETS

Good idea - I'm intending to do something similar with reeds.

But car wiring is very time consuming.

Which is why they're still on the drawing board

400W on main beam, fat wiring + relays in new headlamp units is the way to go. Turns night into day.

It does indeed, but it's illegal for on-road use. I used to have a fast Metro with 100/80 heads and 100 spots - at that time the MET were using them anyway. Range was about a mile but driving on spots alone was very strange - they were pencil beam and dead level - so they didn't illuminate the road immediately in front of the car - but if you couldn't see anything it was a sign that it was still ok to be doing 100+

Mike E (uk) · Post by **Mike E (uk)** » Sat May 29, 2010 5:58 pm

It is odd how it is not 'legal' to have 100W full beam bulbs, but perfectly OK to have two sets of headlights with 60W bulbs in them.

Anyway, who cares? So long as the dipped beam is set correctly at 2x 60W,with the correct pattern, no problems should arise.

There is a similar rule regarding spot lamps under the bumper, but on full beam I will dazzle people where ever they are fitted.

I once drove the 406 in France, and got delayed so it went dark before I had reached my destination. I had not fitted the beam defectors on, and even though I set the headlamps to maximum low with the in car setting, I lost count of the number of folk who flashed me coming the other way.

Fitted the stickers, and the flashing stopped.

Mike

electrokid · Post by **electrokid** » Sat May 29, 2010 11:38 pm

It is odd how it is not 'legal' to have 100W full beam bulbs

Especially since the latest headlamps chuck out more light that the 100s. I did adjust the Metro ones down a little so they wouldn't cause anyone any problems. The reflectors were always bright and new - they didn't seem to last much more than a year due to stones and pheasants.

Mike E (uk) · Post by **Mike E (uk)** » Sat May 29, 2010 11:58 pm

Good point.

The problem is the fool who wrote the rules specified only the maximum input power for the bulbs, not the light output, which is what matters.

They do not know know the system efficiency.

If they had taken the trouble to measure the actual light output of a 60W bulb, they would then have been able to set a proper limit, and these dreadful HID lights that dazzle everyone would be set at a more sensible brightness level.

Mike

electrokid · Post by **electrokid** » Sun May 30, 2010 2:08 pm

The problem is the fool who wrote the rules

Exactly - the problem is different agendas and lack of training and experience.

All manufacturers are members of the Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders (SMMT) who keep in touch with their members regarding design features and legislation etc. SMMT has representation on International Standards Organisation (ISO) committees and government bodies.

When something 'new' comes along (such as lots of reflective brightwork around the rear lights - stupid IMHO) the SMMT has to support its members and their wishes and tell them how stupid they're being at the same time. Dad was the Chief Engineer for the SMMT for the last 15 years of his working life - it's the place where manufacturers demands for 'bling' and extra cup-holders comes face to face with the public's requirements for safety and senibility.

Out of all that mayhem two things emerge - legislation and recommendations. There are many examples of stupidy in both.

When motor shops started selling high intensity rear fogs they were illegal and a few people were prosecuted. Within 4 years the manufacturer / SMMT / ISO / government machine realised their stupidity and they became a requirement.

In 1982 there was not enough willingness in the industry to follow a new 'recommendation' to keep indicators and headlamps as separate as possible so that indicators could be clearly seen. My 1982 Metro had good separation the indicators being in the front bumper but the 1983 'remodelled' Metro had the indicators WITHIN the headlamp glass - stupid - but 'more modern' of course.

If manufacturers have enough power to do so they will get away with anything - blinding HID headlamps and LED moustaches - hey - let's start calling them FAIRY LIGHTS

and see if the name sticks

As far as I can see there are just one design 'fault' each on both of my on-the-road cars. The BX radiator fan is switched by a thermo-switch which is right under where excess coolant dribbles out of the rad overflow and the fan connector is also in a place where corrosion can easily destroy. And in the granny, when the gearshift is in 'park' it's a bit inconvenient to get to the ashtray

The indicators on the BX (and on the granny) are exactly where they should be - on the corners of the car.

Fortunately for us, much of the BX comes under the the engineering comment "somebody thought about that".

Mike E (uk) · Post by **Mike E (uk)** » Sun May 30, 2010 11:42 pm

Interesting stuff that.

The modern fashion appears to have the minimum amount of glass area in a car.

The A pillars may be super strong, but block the view. Plus rearward visability is so poor that soon reversing sensors will become a legal requirement.

Crash safety may have improved, but the chances of hitting something increases.

Fortunately, overall improvements such as tyre technology have probably made these effects small.

Mike

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Mon May 31, 2010 9:08 am

electrokid wrote:indicators WITHIN the headlamp glass - stupid - but 'more modern' of course.

It gets worse - the Mk4 Golf has them in the middle of the headlamps. And I think there is a model of Peugeot(?) that has them on the inboard edge of the headlamps! Daft.

Regarding the circuit diagrams - I've checked them out and they make sense! I like it, thanks.

I will be on the lookout for a handful of relays now - I don't think I have that many spare! My plan is to put them all within a box and simply use one of the existing headlamp connectors for signal, and create a new set of connectors for the headlamps. That way it could easily be swapped back to standard if I so wished.
I should have done it by the National , so will be showing it off there for anyone interested/sad enough...

rayfenwick · Post by **rayfenwick** » Mon May 31, 2010 11:23 am

mat_fenwick wrote: I should have done it by the National , so will be showing it off there for anyone interested/sad enough...

That'll be me...

electrokid · Post by **electrokid** » Mon May 31, 2010 11:58 am

The modern fashion appears to have the minimum amount of glass area in a car. The A pillars may be super strong, but block the view. Plus rearward visability is so poor that soon reversing sensors will become a legal requirement. Crash safety may have improved, but the chances of hitting something increases. Fortunately, overall improvements such as tyre technology have probably made these effects small.

Agreed

I've just bought a set of Vredestein snow tyres (which is what I wanted the extra wheels for) and they've been in the house waiting for me to take the tape / address labels off etc.

I've been waking up with headaches ! ! Something is outgassing from the tyres - not an unpleasant smell*. I moved the tyes to the garage yeaterday - no more headaches ! !

*But then I miss the scent of leaded petrol

electrokid · Post by **electrokid** » Mon May 31, 2010 12:22 pm

It gets worse - the Mk4 Golf has them in the middle of the headlamps. And I think there is a model of Peugeot(?) that has them on the inboard edge of the headlamps! Daft.

Very daft indeed. A few years ago when the market had a bit of a downturn and I was scratching around for a contract I saw there was a fair demand for vehicle lighting designers. I was kinda tempted but I could see what was the 'fashion' - I figured I'd be asked to design something flashy, hip, stylish, funky, when all I would want to do is design something effective and safe. The BX lighting is good - but no-one pulls out in front of me at night in the granny - the headlights are big and wide apart - and that makes it look nearer. Small headlamps closer together make the car look further away - simple ?

I like it, thanks.

My pleasure - I might even get around to fitting it myself

simply use one of the existing headlamp connectors for signal

I think that was in the back of my mind - all signals are there except 'ignition' which could be taken from the diesel pump solenoid.

electrokid · Post by **electrokid** » Tue Jun 01, 2010 9:59 pm

I checked the voltage across the bulbs today on dim-dip - 6.52 and 7.07 so putting filaments in series is going to produce very similar results to the normal dim-dip.

I also thought that there's probably not much of a downside to keep on using the existing resistors - the 6 relay mod saves about 25 / 30 watts by not dissipating power in resistors but a modification using the original resistors would be more simple - no need to separate grounds or main filaments.

An interesting article is at...
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... elays.html

It mentions that the light output / voltage curve is far from linear which we know. What hasn't been mentioned is that our appreciation of light isn't linear either Doing the mod is likely to increase light output by some 20 - 25% but it may not seem as much. However having 25% more light (spreading by 'square law' - ie: double the distance = quarter the light) is still likely to allow us to see something 11% further away which doesn't seem to be much of a benefit - I'm a bit tempted to do the mod and fit 100/80s then set the aim down a bit.

electrokid · Post by **electrokid** » Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:01 pm

Or even...

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... elays.html