Mk1 BX 19RD Estate RHD! A new home

JayW · Post by **JayW** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 2:27 pm

Dollywobbler wrote:(how quickly can you do a cambelt/water pump change Mat?!)

90 minutes with help...

Post by **Defender110** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 3:28 pm

JayW wrote:
Dollywobbler wrote:(how quickly can you do a cambelt/water pump change Mat?!)
90 minutes with help...

With water Pump??? that's bloody good going even without. Puts my 6 hours spread over 3 nights for the TZD to shame

JayW · Post by **JayW** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 3:40 pm

Defender110 wrote:
JayW wrote:
Dollywobbler wrote:(how quickly can you do a cambelt/water pump change Mat?!)
90 minutes with help...

With water Pump??? that's bloody good going even without. Puts my 6 hours spread over 3 nights for the TZD to shame

One gets the car in the air/ wheel off/guard off, crank pulley off (after locking) and drains whilst the other does alt-belt/engine mount/covers etc...

Lock rest up, belt off, swap pump, swear a bit and suck blood from knuckles, replace belt & reassemble.

P.s.

Defender110 wrote: Puts my 6 hours spread over 3 nights for the TZD to shame

Perfectly respectable! Especially if it runs properly afterward! Win!

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 4:21 pm

So, when I get around to attempting this job, it'll take me anywhere between 90 minutes and three days? (I'm guessing nearer the upper estimate there, having never changed a cambelt before...)

What has annoyed me is that coolant doesn't seem very cheap - and the thing has leaked most of its fresh coolant away already. Drat.

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 4:34 pm

JayW wrote:One gets the car in the air/ wheel off/guard off, crank pulley off (after locking) and drains whilst the other does alt-belt/engine mount/covers etc...

Lock rest up, belt off, swap pump, swear a bit and suck blood from knuckles, replace belt & reassemble.

You forgetting the obligatory beer* afterwards!
*Or equivalent

It has taken me getting on for 3 hours to get the crank bolt undone before now, including putting a jack on the end of the near horizontal breaker bar and lifting the entire weight of the car with it to no avail!

I'd be inclined just to top up with water for now, assuming you get the pump sorted soon. Even a hint of antifreeze will lower the freezing point and corrosion is unlikely to be a problem in a short space of time.

Mike E (uk) · Post by **Mike E (uk)** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 8:43 pm

beg, borrow or steal a quality electric impact driver for the crank bolt.

Mike

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 5:48 pm

Thanks for the tip Mike.

Anyway, here's a latest 'on the road' picture. Feels somehow wrong driving around in something that looks so dreadful (this certainly isn't a 'Roverman' type of vehicle!) but also rather wonderful.

As you can see, I haven't got around to fitting the three wheeltrims again yet. Not entirely confident that they'll stay put yet!

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:14 pm

Main thing is that you've managed to get the old gal back on the road which is a success in my book. You can sort her out cosmetically over tme.

Mothman · Post by **Mothman** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 9:38 pm

Nice one bud,

She is beautiful, a bloody good effort to get her back on the road, cosmetics will be done in time ime sure.

Well done,

Andy

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 12:22 am

I wonder what the tester man muttered under his breath when he first saw this

Always feels good though when you go to collect your car from the garage at about 5 o'clock and you walk out with your new MOT and the other guys with their shiny "new" cars are reading all the red ink on their fail sheets $\:D/$

Well done for taking this one on and giving it a second chance of life when the rest of us probably wouldn't have

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 12:18 pm

Thanks Ken.

Another thing I've got to do is find where all the engine oil is leaking from. What are the usual culprits with these engines? I'll have to give it a good gunk to clean it up and try and find where fresh oil is coming from. Not looking forward to that as it'll make a right mess...

ken newbold · Post by **ken newbold** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 3:27 pm

Rocker cover, camshaft seals, maybe crankshaft seals and possibly sump gasket.

But like you say, first thing is to get it cleaned off so you can see.

citsncycles · Post by **citsncycles** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 6:38 pm

Feels somehow wrong driving around in something that looks so dreadful

I don't know what you mean - with the exception of the BX I've just sold, it looks a damn sight better than virtually anything I've driven the last few years

. In fact when I first took my BX into work, with it's minor dings, big scratches in the paintwork, and pink front bumper, they didn't believe it was mine as it looked so good! The GS is several shades of green with gaffer tape holding the doors together, and that's an improvement on when I got it (at least it's all green now

). The Reliant I owned before that had a huge crack in the back door and had been brush painted with a yard broom by someone who thought masking was optional, and the less said about the Land Rover with it's moss covered flaky paint the better. The Dyane I used until the C posts fell out the body doesn't have a straight panel on it, a legacy of spending 35 years in London traffic!

Dollywobbler · Post by **Dollywobbler** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 7:28 pm

Ah-ha! Just worked out who you are Mike. The shabby GS was the giveway. Previous owner of a Warty estate too? (that's the make, not description)

toddao · Post by **toddao** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 8:15 pm

I think it looks alright. What did that car sticker used to say:

This car maybe old and rusty but it's in front of you.

Once you've got the ticket then it's a rolling resto rather than a resting resto!