BX fail

Post by **Defender110** » Fri Nov 04, 2011 10:56 pm

Roverman wrote:Worth checking that the manual fuel pump is working ok?

Is this not Bobs old motor with the electric fuel pump?

Post by **Defender110** » Fri Nov 04, 2011 10:57 pm

Roverman wrote:Worth checking that the manual fuel pump is working ok?

Is this not Bobs old motor with the electric fuel pump?

Post by **Tim Leech** » Fri Nov 04, 2011 11:03 pm

Defender110 wrote:
Roverman wrote:Worth checking that the manual fuel pump is working ok?
Is this not Bobs old motor with the electric fuel pump?

Yep but has the original pump aswell, the facet one just "helps it".

Post by **mat_fenwick** » Fri Nov 04, 2011 11:06 pm

I wonder whether the engine driven pump is actually on its way out, symptons partially masked by the use of the electric pump. Is there any evidence of the original fuel pump being replaced? (Not that necessarily means it is still OK!)

Willy · Post by **Willy** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 12:09 am

Hmm. Well for starters I think I might buy something along the lines of this to see if it stops the initial drainback problem. If it persists there are plenty of BNWT pumps on ebay and replacing it isn't the most trivial task. Driving out to fireworks tomorrow so that should be a test to see what, if anything, needs doing.

Here's the mech pump and facet respectively:

P1030447 by willswitchengage, on Flickr

P1030451 by willswitchengage, on Flickr

Post by **Defender110** » Sat Nov 05, 2011 11:22 am

Those type of mechanical pumps are very easy to check, if you undo the ring of screws you can take the top off and check the diaphram for splits and there should be 2 one way diaphram valves as well which somtimes get blocked open with a bit of crud and once cleaned out will stop the fuel flowing back but I would imagine Bob will of tried this already.

EDIT: I also notice there are 2 different types of fuel hose being used, I can't tell from the pictures but you need to check they both have the same size internal diameters as differing ID hoses on either side of a pump can cause fluctuation in fuel delivery.
Edit 2;
Is that also a none insulated blue wiring conector rubbing against a metal pipe?

Willy · Post by **Willy** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:06 pm

Well, the pump's taken me a good 200 miles since my last post problem free so hopefully that was just a fluke. I'm thinking of changing the facet pumps switch from a push button to a toggle though so if I do have mechanical pump failure, at least I can run the engine off the facet until I can source a replacement (tenner on ebay).

Next problem... I've mentioned my iffy height corrector before (front). The car was just off the stops this morning so when I tried to "rise", only the back came up. To get the front up to "normal" I had to go into highest, then back into normal. The front ascended as the rear fell.

Fixable? I hope it's smething elementary like the linkage - that does feel a little stiff. All I can find info about on the Internet is Xantias, although that it is possible to easily recon them instead of splashing out on a replacement.

MULLEY · Post by **MULLEY** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:17 pm

Try lubricating the linkages 1st, that might resolve the problem.

It might be sticking struts though, have you checked how stiff they are when the car has been left overnight, push down on the front of the car (have the bonnet up, otherwise you might damage it) to see how sticky they might be.

If they are sticking, then try the lubrication trick as per the diy section of the site & also a bit of 3in1 oil down the strut tops where the holes are, just a few drops though.

Willy · Post by **Willy** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 8:31 pm

In other news... after surviving the local students, in the same vain as pretending to camp outside St Paul's moaning about capitalism via a £500 iPad, throwing glass bottles as far as they could down the road, I woke up the other day to find some lovely eggy mess on my RHS door and a circular paint scuffed impact point on the wing. Not happy about that one...

And hate ebay, so many things to buy

Post by **Defender110** » Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:39 pm

What similar tastes we have

Shame the fast buck merchant has added 1 more owner onto the log book of the Austin. The Visa shed didn't get a bid suprise suprise, we once had a silent running film generator built into a Zil , bombproof. I would prefer the Cortina as a MK4 saloon.

Mickey taker · Post by **Mickey taker** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 10:26 am

strangely this is calling to me at the moment

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170729191280? ... 1423.l2649

I would love to finish making it into a replica of the 1968 London to Sydney rally winner

Post by **Defender110** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 1:37 pm

I've still got a very intact original Corgi car of the Hilman Hunter rally team car this is trying to imunate, complete with the removable wheels on jacks they did and roofrack tool kit and spare. It's one I kept from my youth that I didn't want to part with

Mickey taker · Post by **Mickey taker** » Fri Nov 18, 2011 2:36 pm

Defender110 wrote:I've still got a very intact original Corgi car of the Hilman Hunter rally team car this is trying to imunate, complete with the removable wheels on jacks they did and roofrack tool kit and spare. It's one I kept from my youth that I didn't want to part with

how wierd, so have I, complete with Kangaroo unused stickers and I think the gorgi club leaflet as well. the box is a replica though

These are worth in excess of £100.00 now

Willy · Post by **Willy** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 1:49 pm

Fuel tank sizes

I brimmed this morning from the 1/4 full mark, and it took 36 litres (trying to fuelsave experiment too here). This gives me roughly a ten gallon tank, although wuld probably be the 52L tank as mentioned in the Haynes. However, the handbook says all 1.6s have 66L tanks... hmm. Any ideas? It's not a problem, I'd just be interested to know.

Willy · Post by **Willy** » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:38 pm

More problems, excellent.

The front height corrector's stubborn-ness is getting quite a nuisance now - its rear counterpart works fine - but sometimes in the mornings after a week of standing it has to be budged up putting it into high position first. I'd be interested to know how much a garage would charge for a diagnosis & recon/replace job for one of these, I'm intimidated by working on the hydraulic system myself.

Cold starting is fine in this now frosty weather, but the carb is still finding itself starved of petrol after its frequent long stands. Grrr. I just look silly having to crank for ages before that burst into life. Also the carb seems to idle a little quickly - about 1050rpm. Probable cause? Choke not fully opening? Throttle settings? Who knows, although I do know that Bob spent a lot of time fiddling with the carb to try and refine it.

In other news, although I do spend far too much time on the ebay looking at cheaper, more sensible cars (and dream cars), I do find the BX just so fun to try. The ride is just so smooth and the engine remarkably refined for a 30 year old design in a 20 year old car (and surprisingly frugal too) - being such a light car power is absolutely everywhere above about 2000rpm. I'd appreciate a seat with more ways of adjusting it for a lanky git like myself, but other than that it's a joy to drive, even in these soggy and dark days.