Door Pins
I have a long punch set bought from Cromwell tools and one of those does the trick spot on. At work mind at the moment and can't remember which size
Haven taken off and swapped a fair few Bx doors in my time, I would recommend you get both started and moving before removing one pin completely. A pair of hands holding the door is a time saver as well, I found you cant easily balance the door yourself when trying to take the second pin out, as the weight of the door causes the remaining pin to flex slightly after you've taken the first one out.
Haven taken off and swapped a fair few Bx doors in my time, I would recommend you get both started and moving before removing one pin completely. A pair of hands holding the door is a time saver as well, I found you cant easily balance the door yourself when trying to take the second pin out, as the weight of the door causes the remaining pin to flex slightly after you've taken the first one out.
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- sleepy0905
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Tim i had this problem with mine it is because the top pin takes all the strain and it will be bent and destorted I had to get the propper pin removal tool to get mine out as no punches etc would remove it.
The pin was sort of this shape.
-------_______---------
As you can see the part the door hangs on in the middle gets bent I cannot show you as i tossed my old ones in the bin.
The pin was sort of this shape.
-------_______---------
As you can see the part the door hangs on in the middle gets bent I cannot show you as i tossed my old ones in the bin.
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- sleepy0905
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- sleepy0905
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- Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2005 9:23 am
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The door must be supported - i.e. by a pile of wooden blocks etc. You can feel by hand that the strain is taken off the hinge pin. Do it with door opened fully.
1) standard masking tape for any paint job around the pin work area saves your paint
2) buy an offset punch that you dont need to hit at top end. Looks like the capital letter "T" - laid down on its side - and you hammer on the long bar of the T near the top crossbar of the T. The Sykes tool mentioned by Sleepy it is allright.
3) you may try upside down if the pin seems to move this way.
4) as soon as the pin starts moving - be ready to insert a nail as a supporting hingepin. Otherwise you will very suddenly need a 3.rd hand to save the lower hinge from getting ripped out the A-pillar
1) standard masking tape for any paint job around the pin work area saves your paint
2) buy an offset punch that you dont need to hit at top end. Looks like the capital letter "T" - laid down on its side - and you hammer on the long bar of the T near the top crossbar of the T. The Sykes tool mentioned by Sleepy it is allright.
3) you may try upside down if the pin seems to move this way.
4) as soon as the pin starts moving - be ready to insert a nail as a supporting hingepin. Otherwise you will very suddenly need a 3.rd hand to save the lower hinge from getting ripped out the A-pillar
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- BXpert
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