TZD coolant change

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TizzyD
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TZD coolant change

Post by TizzyD »

Hi all I would like to learn how to do a coolant change on my TZD at home but don't really know the first place to start, anyone got a simple step by step to help ? will i need ramps for anything like that ? cheers
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Tim Leech
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Re: TZD coolant change

Post by Tim Leech »

ramps is useful, its not a big job alough you will get filthy!

you need to remove the bottom house from underneath with the expansion tank cap removed, if possible take the radiator out (theres a panel above with a row of 10mm bolts) and flush it through a couple of times both ways.

when refitting you need to be very careful of bleeding, theres a big bleed screw at the n/s end of the radiator which needs to be undone to let the air out. I am very wary of opening the plastic bleed screws on the thermostat as they have a tendency to sheer off and always then leak.
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Re: TZD coolant change

Post by Tinkley »

Tim Leech wrote: when refitting you need to be very careful of bleeding, theres a big bleed screw at the n/s end of the radiator which needs to be undone to let the air out. I am very wary of opening the plastic bleed screws on the thermostat as they have a tendency to sheer off and always then leak.
I'd second that stuff about the plastic bleed screw. if it turns with gentle pressure - fine. If it does not then leave well alone and just top up the coolant with the bleed screw at the top n/s of the rad open and let the engine pump the stuff through. When it gets through the system, it's pretty obvious you can re tighten the bleed screw and top up as normal. Check it a few times (2 or 3) say the next couple of days, after refilling and bleeding.

Remember to fill with a 50/50 distilled water and antifreeze mix. Do NOT use tap water. With the petrols, it's best to drain from the lower radiator hose on o/s. The rad is pretty easy to remove, then you can get all the leaves out from the fan area too... :wink: It only needs flushing IF the coolant you have in their is in poor condition ie sludgey, signs of rust etc when it may become more serious. If it is clogged, in the worst case the rad may need replacing. I've had this on one, my 1.4 because of tap water, the other two have been really good and clean even if they did need draining and renewing. Note the rad on the 1.4 was not leaking, simply clogged with rust and other elements of corrosion.
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Re: TZD coolant change

Post by Way2go »

There's also a benefit to use & run "Bars Professional Flush" in the system prior to the final water flush. This is especially good at removing any crud from the smaller upper waterways, particularly in the head. It's restrictions in these upper waterways that are usually responsible for the onset of triggering of the dreaded red light.
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Re: TZD coolant change

Post by citsncycles »

..that_

I used the Miller's version in the XM and it lowered the running temp. by 10 degrees once I'd put fresh coolant in.
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Re: TZD coolant change

Post by rutter123 »

When re filling use a large plastic bottle 2 or 3 litre with the base cut off, make a seal round the neck of the bottle that fits snug in the header tank, a bit of rubber pipe should do, fill your system to top insert bottle and fill half way, the extra weight of water should push all the air out once the stat has opened, as the header tank is lower than the highest water point in the engine. I do mine this way as disturbing the drain screws is a big no no, sometimes loosening the top rad hose helps to bleed some air, with caution tho. If you can measure the amount you drain out and replace like for like that way you know its bled properly.
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Re: TZD coolant change

Post by KevR »

On both my TZDs (and as far as I remember, on the other four I've owned!) the bleed screws on the thermostat housings are normal M6 allen bolts with copper washers, not plastic.
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TizzyD
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Re: TZD coolant change

Post by TizzyD »

Got some holts speed flush to do the job but I just wanted to check, I undo this bottom hose

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And this top hose

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And I open that bleed screw when refilling to get the air out right ?

Edit: should I also turn the heater tap to max hot to open up the heater matrix ?
'02 Clio Dynamique 1.2 16v - 92K - Sold
'09 Yamaha YBR 125 - 1100 miles
'93 Bx 17 TZD Turbo - 240K - The Aubergine

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