Fitting new rear brake pads and discs BX 1.4 St Tropez

[szhrr5cc]

Carrying on with getting the BX in better shape today I removed the rear brake pads preparatory to fitting new discs as the current ones are very pitted with rust.

After a bit of a struggle I was able to pull the old pads out on both sides with the lining material breaking away on one of them and was then able to loosen the caliper bolts and temporarily fit the new sping clips, bolt and cover plate to hold the caliper halves together as recommended in the Haynes manual. I then removed the surprisingly small screw supposedly holding the disc to the hub.

Supposedly because the disc appears to be rusted firmly to the hub; I've tried plenty of Wd40, some heat and mallet whacks to no avail before having to call it a day. Photos attached.

Any ideas? Am I missing something? Current plan is to try the same tactic tomorrow, perhaps the heat and contract method will have loosened them up a bit. Optimistic!

[rutter123]

Yep, that's rusted on nicely, they do that , it's probably never been off the car as the rear brakes are very frugle and the liners coming away is quite common as yours have.
As for removal a 10lb sledge hammer played some part in it, try to hit the back of the disc from the underside and away from the hub, some can be very stubborn.
I've had to cut one off with a grinder many years ago as it wouldn't budge.
A hub puller would work if you have one big enough.

[szhrr5cc]

Thanks.

This afternoon I tried again with plenty of heat and whacks, heated both sides twice, no joy. I was about to give up when I thought of using my heaviest hammer again and smacked the disc at an angle and hey presto! off it came. Went immediately around to the other one and did the same with the same result. To say I was chuffed about that is putting it mildly. This weekend I'll clean it all up and fit the new discs and pads then take her for a test.

Next will be the small LHM leak at the back and the oil leak from somewhere under the front.

[rutter123]

Big hammers are good for some jobs, whilst you have it all apart check the caliper pistons aren't stuck as they get very little use unless you're travelling 4 up with a boot full of bricks all the time.
Looking at yours I'd say their not doing a great deal.
They may need bleeding unless you have previously done it yourself, the fluid in the end brake lines could be very old.

[DLM]

That's a good win. Rear discs and pads don't see the light of day very often on BXs.

[panky]

I had to take the rears apart and clean them up every six months to stop them seizing up. The ABS would operate too easily as the rotor rusted up if they got really bad.

[rutter123]

Remove the backplates as well and give them a caot of stonechip as they are quite precious if they're not rusted through and very hard to find replacements.

[Fumbler]

I imagine your oil leak upfront is the distributor O ring. A way to see if this is true is to see if the engine bellhousing is wet.

[szhrr5cc]

Well, fitted the new discs, cleaned up the calipers to be able to fit the new pads and was also able to push the piston calipers back. Only puzzle was how to fit the wire spring but I think I figured it out, it seems to tension the pads in position - always surprises me a little how primitive some of these things are! Anyway tested the car and it appear to brake a little better than before. (small note photos were taken before I degreased the new discs).

I was unable to bleed the brakes because the bleed nipples are rusted in place and it felt as though they would snap and I dont have any others so this will have to wait before I can do that.

Similarly the good suggestion to clean and stone chip the backing plates will have to wait too due to time constraints, they are in good shape so it is worth doing.

Lastly, and as shown in one of the photos, the metal piece within the fuel filler neck has broken away it being extremely rusty - does anyone know of spares or an alternative?

Thanks for all the feedback!

[Jaba]

Lastly, and as shown in one of the photos, the metal piece within the fuel filler neck has broken away it being extremely rusty - does anyone know of spares or an alternative?

These have been remanufactured and are available from Chevronics.

Those rear brake nipples almost always snap off. They can be drilled out but replacement brake cylinders are the easier solution. Then coat the new bleed nipple threads with high melting point grease to try and prevent a reoccurrence.

[rutter123]

Agreed the rear bleed valves are sods for snapping and sods to get out if they do. Steel against alloy over a long time is never good.
A tap with a hammer and some gentle heat with a good fitting socket over the valve usually gets them out.