Rear suspension squeek
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Rear suspension squeek
Although my BX14 rises quickly, there is a persistant squeeking from the rear somewhere - and when stopped - it creaks before lowering - sometimes lowering quite suddenly. I have sprayed WD40 everywhere but to no avail.
I am wondering if it xould be the bearings on the trailing arms ?
any suggestions welcome
Regards
Geoff
I am wondering if it xould be the bearings on the trailing arms ?
any suggestions welcome
Regards
Geoff
- ken newbold
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Re: Rear suspension squeek
poormansgs wrote: - and when stopped - it creaks before lowering - sometimes lowering quite suddenly.
You're right Ken, the IN-famous problem of corrosion between rear calipers and rear arms could cause the calipers to sit in an angle to the discs.ken newbold wrote:Could also be the rear brakes that are binding
I really doubt it however. The rear brakes would wear their pads very quickly to clear the discs, if pistons were stuck to do this.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
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- DavidRutherford
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You can either do it yourself. £22ish for the kit, and if it's the first one you've done allow 2+ hours to do it. You will need some reasonably good tools to do it though, including a 6-side 13mm socket for the unfeasably tight anti-roll-bar clamp, 24mm(I think) socket/spanners for the through bolt, long punches/drifts to get the inner races out of the suspension arm, etc.
Alternatively, any garage with half a clue should be able to do them for £70-£100 per side, with maybe a bit of a deal if you do both at the same time.
Alternatively, any garage with half a clue should be able to do them for £70-£100 per side, with maybe a bit of a deal if you do both at the same time.
this might be a signature
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Rear arm repair kit.
Its not necessary with the wedge set. The parts in the repair kit have adequate production tolerances to match exactly.
Any wedges found when arm removed should be re-used.
They are there to compensate for depth variations in the arm bore, which was a problem on the first production series.
On re-assembly you can test the bearing preload very easy :
If the arm dangles like a pendulum, the bearings have too little preload and must be adjusted by the wedge set.
If the arm just barely can swing down by its own weight, its about perfect.
If the arm needs a firm helping hand to swing down, then the preload is too heavy, and likely the bearings are fitted with some dirt preventing them being pressed fully home in the bore.
Its not necessary with the wedge set. The parts in the repair kit have adequate production tolerances to match exactly.
Any wedges found when arm removed should be re-used.
They are there to compensate for depth variations in the arm bore, which was a problem on the first production series.
On re-assembly you can test the bearing preload very easy :
If the arm dangles like a pendulum, the bearings have too little preload and must be adjusted by the wedge set.
If the arm just barely can swing down by its own weight, its about perfect.
If the arm needs a firm helping hand to swing down, then the preload is too heavy, and likely the bearings are fitted with some dirt preventing them being pressed fully home in the bore.
C U / Anders - '90red16riBreak - '91GrisDolment16meteor - Project'88red19trsBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
dead cars : '89white 16RS - '89antrasitTRDturboEst - '90white19triBreak
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- My Cars: 1999 Xsara LX 2.0HDI (90) Hatch - Fern
2002 C5 2.0 HDI (110) Estate - Jasmine - SORN
2011 Mini Cooper D Clubman - SOLD
2016 Mercedes A180D Sport - Auto refinement
1992 TZD Turbo - Bluebell - SORN
1992 TZD Turbo Estate - SORN
1991 Gti 16V - Blaze - crash damaged, will get repaired - SORN
1990 Gti 8Valve SOLD - looks like it's been scrapped
2002 Mini Cooper S - SOLD - i miss this car
1992 TXD - Scrapped in March 2014
1988 CX 25 GTI Turbo2 - SORN
1996 - AX Memphis 1.5D - Dream - SORN - x 8