Timing belt tensioner won't tension (Bx TD)

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 1:24 am

classic2cv wrote:do you have a picture of this tool ?

Sorry - no -

But its as easy and plain as to my description. Once the tensioner roller bracket is retracted to compress the spring and plunger - you fit this simple tool to keep it in that position. Then you fit the belt, remove the tool and voila : the belt is now under tension. Makes it a LOT easier to fiddle with the belt.

sorry - just springs to my mind now that its mentioned in the haynes diesel manual (only).

Try make up that simple tool. its just some 120mm length of rigid steel (heavy sheeting) with those 2 bolts spaced 100mm apart. Bolts should reach out some 50mm. No need to be super accurate. A simple, fast and rough made bracket will do. It just needs to be that rigid, the tensioner spring will not open the distance between the bolts.

Post by **docchevron** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 2:39 am

I've removed as many tensioners as I've had hot meals (I dont eat often!), and I've never used any special tool what so ever. It can be done by sliding the tensioner over the pivot stud and pushing the piston up with a screw driver. Job done, 10seconds.

I knew Classic2cv was refering to a Diesel, but then, I knew he has a diesel.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 1:06 pm

Its not fitting the tensioner plunger/piston. Its keeping it in its retracted (compressed) position the tool helps you with.

You cant just put a screwdriver in there with one hand and slip over the belt with the other hand, as there is no room left for that down there between the engine and inner wing.

IMHO you must be referring to an engine out situation

Post by **docchevron** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 6:32 pm

i'm talkikng baout refitting the tensioner.
Once it's fitted, retract the tensioner to it's widest position using a ratchet and extension on the squae cut out, lock it there with the bolt, fit the belt, undo bolt, it tension's the belt., do up bolt and nut, turn engine over twice, re check belt tension.

Wheres the problem??
I've done hundreds with the engine in the car.
Literally hundreds.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 7:32 pm

Talking 2 different types here I now imagine doc.

You are talking the pet ones with the rear cammed bolt to lock it in retracted position.
I'm talking the diesel ones which are a whole different breed

Only thing they have in common is a rotating wheel to support and tension the belt.

The rest does not even slightly look the same - not even after 3 lagers

Post by **docchevron** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 7:38 pm

No mate, I'm talking diesel.

Theres a bolt, and a nut. Once the tensioner is retracted (they have a square hole in the casting VERY near the roller that a standard ratchet extension fits into nicely) you can lock it there by doing the 13mm bolt up, hence holding it away whilst you fit the belt. When the 13mm bolt is unone, the spring pushes the roller against the belt and tensions it.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 7:56 pm

I'll try get some pictures - something is amiss here -

Post by **docchevron** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 7:59 pm

I believe you are right, we must be getting our wires crossed?????

I'll take some piccies!

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:53 am

it's all done and running now

with no leaks and no bits left over

I think that both of you are right

I managed to refit the tensioner with the use of a small socket on an extension and a bit of juggling with the roller part

But as Anders said it’s much easier with the Citroen tool