Rear suspension "clacking noise"

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:13 pm

I’m getting a clacking noise from the rear suspension

It happens when going some speed bumps and when going quickly over some rough roads

And only on the drivers side

I’m not sure if it’s coming from the rear roll bar or the swing arm bearings

kiwi · Post by **kiwi** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:20 pm

Check to see if the Rubber bush that cushions the suspension from the bodywork has not gone missing.

Another possibility?

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:21 pm

Spare wheel cage ?
Wheel jack rattling inside spare wheel ?
Boot door rattling on lock bar ?
rear side door rattling on lock poster ?

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:32 pm

AndersDK wrote:Spare wheel cage ?
Wheel jack rattling inside spare wheel ?
?

oh

i'll have a check of those in the morning

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 6:40 pm

had a good look at all the bits

it's making a cracking sound when get into the car and when i go over bumps

so it looks like it's time to get the arms off

i've looked through the hyanes manual and it looks quite clear but can anybody "walk me through it" just so know what i will be doing

i have a spare pair of good arms so i can do the bearing later

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 8:54 pm

It's rear arm bearings alright and it will not be evident by doing the old jack up on high and look at the legs trick (/ \ - / | etc) as you'll probably find that they move front to back instead. They were like that on my BX16V when I did them.

As far as the job itself goes, as good a walk through guide as you'll get is here:

http://www.citroenbx.nl/techniek/onderh ... agers.html

It's in Dutch which is no real problem as it is a comprehensive guide in pics and can be used in conjunction with any other write up on the job.
I haven't done one of these for some years now as I have all ours modified, but if you intend using used arms and bearings, suggest you pack plenty of grease into them or they will probably end up in the same state as the ones you're taking out in a short period of time due to the snow and salt that may get into them in the upcoming winter.

Alan S

m_2975 · Post by **m_2975** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 11:00 pm

classic2cv wrote:I have a spare pair of good arms so I can do the bearing later

Hi there. There are arm bearing kits on ebay at the moment. The only way to do it as they include everything.

Doing the arm bearings really isn't a big problem. The only thing that you need to make sure is that it's greased properly and that the outer seal is fitted correctly.

Back on stands, System depressurised, rear wheels off, inner brake shield off (not necessary but handy for extra room), brake pipe off, suspension cylinder pin out that goes through arm, (ABS sensor if you have disconnected either from arm or unclipped under back seat and pushed through) and big bolt undone. Then it all falls out and you can take the arm out, knock the bearing out by using a screwdriver to push the central metal tube out and then gently remove all the other smal bits inside. Then refit as per Haynes or just ask.

Michael

Bazza · Post by **Bazza** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 11:31 pm

m_2975 wrote:
classic2cv wrote:I have a spare pair of good arms so I can do the bearing later
Hi there. There are arm bearing kits on ebay at the moment. The only way to do it as they include everything.

Doing the arm bearings really isn't a big problem. The only thing that you need to make sure is that it's greased properly and that the outer seal is fitted correctly.

Back on stands, System depressurised, rear wheels off, inner brake shield off (not necessary but handy for extra room), brake pipe off, suspension cylinder pin out that goes through arm, (ABS sensor if you have disconnected either from arm or unclipped under back seat and pushed through) and big bolt undone. Then it all falls out and you can take the arm out, knock the bearing out by using a screwdriver to push the central metal tube out and then gently remove all the other smal bits inside. Then refit as per Haynes or just ask.

Michael

Spot on Michael. Well explained. Just because its a citroen doesnt mean a complicated job. I recently did my first one and approached it with reservations, (as you do) but even I managed it with no drama and am now looking with much more frienliness at my other four BX's as they probably ALL need a looking at in the department.

No heavy or fiddly work involved and a cushion for the head is about all you need on the way of special tools. Oh, and those safety glasses.!!!

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 11:33 pm

this is cool

i ask a tech question and i get 2 answers from down under

the wonders of the internet age

thanks for the help guys, i'll have it apart and sorted on monday

m_2975 · Post by **m_2975** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 12:14 pm

classic2cv wrote:this is cool

i ask a tech question and i get 2 answers from down under

I'm always here to help

It's better to be preventative with these bearings. Once the races and roller bearings eat into your arm you are....erm....buggered. You get new arms as using the eaten ones will allow water in very fast and possible bearing/seal failure.

Note when you do the arms that there "should" be a metal shim (or spacer) in there. It's very important to put it back if it's there as it correctly pressurises the bearing. No spacer and the races wear out prematurely due to bedding into the metal. Don't believe me? When you hit out the inner metal rod and pull out the bearing (or what's left) and wipe the metal surface that the bearing rests on have a look and see the little indents in the metal from the bearings. I'll take a photo next weekend when I have an arm handy

ellevie · Post by **ellevie** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 1:39 pm

The long bolt protrudes considerably beyond the nut into the middle of the curly section of the brake pipes, so a deep 24mm socket will be useful here if you have one. You might find it easier to hold the nut whilst applying lots of leverage to the bolt head with an extension and breaker bar or some suitable form of leverage.

If the rear brake pipes are rusty, then it is a good idea to feel along them for "thin" weak spots by pinching between thumb and forefinger . One of my pipes sprung a leak due to the unavoidable movement and had to be replaced.

You can tie the calipers to a stick poked into a hole above the arm instead of removing them, thus avoiding the need to disconnect the brake pipes.

Also, have a look at this site
http://www.mars.dti.ne.jp/~ynar/bxorg_a ... /m07e.html

m_2975 · Post by **m_2975** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 10:16 pm

Thanks for that input ellevie,

Those diagrams are great.

Michael

ellevie · Post by **ellevie** » Sun Oct 14, 2007 11:56 pm

Yes, it's a very good site with loads of excellent illustrations. I've made an offline version of it with correctly referenced http links just in case it should disappear one day.

David

m_2975 · Post by **m_2975** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 10:32 am

ellevie wrote:I've made an offline version of it with correctly referenced http links just in case it should disappear one day.

That's a great idea David as we all know how easily and fast a site can disappear from our midst!

classic2cv · Post by **classic2cv** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:48 pm

I saved a copy of this site some time ago and thought that it had gone too but I lost it so I’ll save it again

Both in English and Japanese (I think that the Japanese version has some more stuff on it)

It’s a great site