Loose contact on starter motor?

[TB2]

I have a minor problem when starting my BX TD since yesterday. I can enable the accessories and pre-glow the engine without problems but when I turn the key to start the engine, it doesn't turn at all. First time it happened, I tried a couple of times and then it suddenly worked; Second time I turned the key and when nothing happend I just wobbled the car a bit while being seated and it started immediately.

So I think there's a loose contact somewhere but I don't really know where I should start looking.

Common fault? Any idea where to begin?

Thanks!

Carl

[mnde]

Yeah sounds like starter solenoid to me.

Mark.

[CitroXim]

It's well worth checking the battery and earth connections for corrosion Carl, especially the earths to the bodywork and gearbox.

Do you hear a click when you try to start? If you don't, this shows the starter solenoid is not getting juice, or enough of it. The solenoid takes quite a current and as this passes via the ignition switch, various connectors and a little spade on the solenoid, it takes very little to upset it. Give the small spade terminal on the solenoid a clean. A test lamp on this wire will show what is going on.

Often though, it's an internal problem in the starter itself, either a bad contact in the solenoid or the brushes making bad contact with the commutator.

Try giving the motor and solenoid a good bash with heavy object next time it plays up and see if this gets it going again.

[Vanny]

wobbling the car from the drivers seat aint gonna show up a dodgy starter solenoid. BUt if theres a bunch of keys dangling and an old/worn ignition barrel then that might be the cause of the problem. Check that your getting 12v at the starter when flicking the key, i bet your not and i bet your barrel is goosed. Also, what key do you have? the flat head or the bladed type? I'm of the belief that the original totally flat key barrels fail much quicker!

[jeremy]

I'm almost sure its the ignition switch as described by Vanny. I had exactly this problem on the ZX and eventually had to replace the switch - which cured everything.

The key weight is an important point. Eventually the ZX would cut out as the keys swung - which after 18 months or more convinced me it was the key switch and made me do the job.

In trying to find the fault I connected a meter across the starter solenoid lead at the motor and flicked the key 100 times or more - and got the correct reading every time. Curiously it worked perfectly for several weeks after that. There were one or two other possibilities on the ZX including a multi-way plug and an after-market immobiliser which is why I left it for a while.

The ZX had the flat key. The replacement locks with the key with the spine are made by Valeo - and while the fitting procedure is slightly different - the fitting on the car seems to take both.

[TB2]

Thanks for your answers.

When I turn the switch, I can indeed her a clicking sound. Also, all the lights on the dash go off except for two in the middle. I will check everything you suggested on sunday...

I don't know what the difference between a "flat" and a "bladed" key is. My English skills fail me

Though the general shape comes close to this:



On the key it also says "Simplex"... It's the only key I have, the other one got lost by the previous owner.

[jeremy]

That's the flat key. The Valeo ones have a ridge on each flat side running from the top to the tip.

[Vanny]

this is the reinforced 'bladed' key;



actually from a xantia but there the same lock/barrel/key

it does indeed sound like the barrel might be shorting out rather than actually working and hence the problem?