Rear Brake Calliper Through Bolt

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 12:19 pm

Just been looking through my bits and pieces and came across this.

Some time back I was working on the rear brakes, and was unable to locate new bolts, as I had to destroy the original ones.

So I found some 4" nails that were perfect for the job, just required a thread cutting and some nuts and washers and that did the trick.

This was a spare one I kept.

IMG]http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j272/ ... 04676m.jpg[/IMG]

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 12:28 pm

Photo did not register for some unknown reason, so here it is again.

Kitch · Post by **Kitch** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 5:44 pm

Someone used a split pin on mine. You can buy the original bolts at the dealers BTW. Same as Xantia hatch ones. I got the plates and everything. £13 IIRC.

DLM · Post by **DLM** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 5:37 pm

When a through bolt self-destructed during rear caliper dissasembly I went round to the local "serious" toolshop with the surviving one and found a bolt/nut combination there to make a decent match. Luckily it's very close to where I was working on the BX.

The terminally corroded through bolt is one of many potential pitfalls to be prepared for when starting a seemingly straightforward rear brake job (e.g. seized bleed nipples, disintegrating plates, stuck caliper pistons (best removed with aid of a footpump), corroded caliper bodies, rusting brake pipes etc. etc. ).

Way2go · Post by **Way2go** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 6:52 pm

DLM wrote: when starting a seemingly straightforward rear brake job (e.g. seized bleed nipples,

1) What's the best way of removing these?

2) Where can you buy new ones? (I drew a blank before at GSF & the Stealer!)

DLM · Post by **DLM** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 2:04 pm

Well, some bleed nipples respond to treatment and some don't - it's a sad fact of life.
Wire-brushing in the first place, and then regular application of loosening juice WELL IN ADVANCE of any brake work - i.e. for anything up to a week - is recommended.

Careful application of heat can help, though this can be tricky to manage as you're in close proximity to rubber brake lines and seals - and of course the heat transmits through the caliper body. A proper close-fitting spanner/hex-headed wrench is essential, as once any rounding takes place you're onto a loser. Firm, steady, but not excessive pressure is also key - possibly including a little to-and-fro movement in the first instance, or if things start to tighten up once started. Too much welly, or too much leverage, is likely to cause you problems.

Even then you won't win them all. I've snapped them, like many people. Just make sure you keep any old calipers you can get for part-recycling - and it's a wonderful confidence-builder to have a spare or reconned caliper ready to fit before you start, in case of the worst.

As for new bleed nipples, they're pretty elusive: I haven't found any particularly reliable source though Citroen should still supply them.

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 10:05 pm

Well if it's a bad day and the bleed nipple shears off, then this is what I did...

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=19621

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 10:25 pm

There is some strange goings on, not transfering the items...

Anyway, here one of the pictures, this will give you some idea...

Drilled out the old one, tapped for a larger thread, turned a replacement from scewed rod using just a drill in a vice..Caliper was then re-usable..