VNDs 14TGE *MOT PASS!* 22/10/12

[vnd]

Wheres your knob gone?

Removed for cleaning old bean.

It had about one hundred and sixty thousand miles worth of DNA crusted onto it in thick black scabs.

Its now smooth and clean again. But I wont be able to clone former owners if the technology ever becomes available any more.

[Tim Leech]

I have a spare 16v type...

[vnd]

I have a spare 16v type...

Forgive my ignorance, but I dont know what they look like. Could you post a pic?

[saintjamesy89]

knob picture request! (sorry, couldn't help it, it was too easy)

Also noticed you've got odd rear light units, one looks blue and the other brown/grey. Looks rather nice, my first BX was a TGE, but in the other awesomeist colour (delage red). With a bit of fettling, I reckon this'll look the business

[mds141]

Stunning colour. With some TLC will be a lovely motor. Keep up the good work. And Tom, wrong type of forum for pictures of knobs!!

[citsncycles]

knob picture request! (sorry, couldn't help it, it was too easy)

Thank god for that - when I read posts about crusty knobs last night with no dodgy comments following, I thought there was something going wrong with the forum

[Tim Leech]

Boys, calm down, you will scare the newbie.

[vnd]

Boys, calm down, you will scare the newbie.

Doubtfull!

Base humour is good humour.
Knobs and farts are always amusing.
But NEVER together!

[citsncycles]

Boys, calm down, you will scare the newbie.

Sorry boss

Just had a moment of deja vu - I was involved in the same conversation at work about the last 2 new starts

[Mickey taker]

Knobs and farts are always amusing.
But NEVER together!

Oh I don't know

[vnd]

Noticed the tick time was down to about a second (almost constant) yesterday, so booked BEG into the car-doctors for a good look-over.

Well, the verdict is in.

MOT fail, but not too bad for a 22 year old french car.




Couple of little jobs, bad earth on the back, gator, track rod end..... and a massive hydraulic leak!
The underside of the car has had an extensive rustproofing. Im not sure whats more expensive, Waxoil or hydraulic fluid, but the jobs certainly thoroughly done now!

It seems there are two rubber return pipes (rubber, low pressure?) not connected to anything (!)
Hopefully its just these pipes that need replacing/reconecting and she'll be good to go.
Unfortunately theres not enough ramp time to thoroughly investigate untill monday. So she will have to sit sadly and wait untill then.

[toddao]

Nice car in a good colour too. The window issue I only dealt with on mine last week after suffering the two-handed closing/sagging palaver for years HERE is the link to my posting which was received with huge excitement.

- remove inner door handle ( three screws) and afore-mentioned 'knob'

- gently prise the door card/lining away from its plastic clips which will probably break, lift it free.

- remove the three or four bolts that hold the window scissor mechanism in place inc the inner small runner fixed onto the door that you can't see from outside ( this will save loads of faffing). Manoeuvre it off the window runners. Probably advisable to remove the whole window through the top before putting the new 'improved' set of scissors into place.
- Slide all the bearings and runners into place on the window once it's back in before bolting back onto the door ( prop it up with a block of wood to aid alignment for the bolts)

I'm assuming that its an electric window otherwise you've got a big faff changing the manual mechanism onto an electric one

I'd say allow 90 mins or so if you've never done it. Any questions just ask as I've wasted too much time in the inner recesses of the BX door!

- I just saw your MOT post. Sounds like the front strut returns could be leaking if you've got two pipes that go no-where. These things degrade over time and just fall off. I've seen this on a couple of BXs

[vnd]

Nice car in a good colour too. The window issue I only dealt with on mine last week after suffering the two-handed closing/sagging palaver for years HERE is the link to my posting which was received with huge excitement.

- remove inner door handle ( three screws) and afore-mentioned 'knob'

- gently prise the door card/lining away from its plastic clips which will probably break, lift it free.

- remove the three or four bolts that hold the window scissor mechanism in place inc the inner small runner fixed onto the door that you can't see from outside ( this will save loads of faffing). Manoeuvre it off the window runners. Probably advisable to remove the whole window through the top before putting the new 'improved' set of scissors into place.
- Slide all the bearings and runners into place on the window once it's back in before bolting back onto the door ( prop it up with a block of wood to aid alignment for the bolts)

I'm assuming that its an electric window otherwise you've got a big faff changing the manual mechanism onto an electric one

I'd say allow 90 mins or so if you've never done it. Any questions just ask as I've wasted too much time in the inner recesses of the BX door!

- I just saw your MOT post. Sounds like the front strut returns could be leaking if you've got two pipes that go no-where. These things degrade over time and just fall off. I've seen this on a couple of BXs

Sir, youre a gent.
Thats all super info and thanks very much for posting it.
Sure itll be invaluable when I finally get a dry day and get the doorcard off.

[Dollywobbler]

Strut returns are easy but I'm betting the one fitted has snapped. When that happens, very often the inside edge of the tyre ends up feeling very sticky. If it hasn't snapped, then it's possible that excess pressure has forced it off. That might mean a dodgy strut, which is a bit more of a pain.

[vnd]

That might mean a dodgy strut, which is a bit more of a pain.

And here was me feeling all upbeat and positive.........