Barrys tzd repairs

[barry badger]

Thanks so much to everyone i've finally managed a picture . This is the repaired os inner wing.

The other side of the repair.

Jobs completed so far are:-

Drivers window regulator replaced
upper speedometer cable replaced
good speedometer with correct mileage and working tripometer made up from two broken ones.
radius arms overhauled (but not refitted yet)
heater motor repaired
cambelt,water pump and all front oil seals replaced

[barry badger]

The next repair under way is the ns A post, the top hinge had actually come away so i have cut everything away back to clean metal.



This is the new inner piece to be fitted (cut from the scrapper) but first it will be thoroughly derusted using bilt hamber deox gel.

[citsncycles]

Good to see more people doing repairs like this on BX's

[Defender110]

/\ as that, nice work Barry.

[barry badger]

Os quarter panel perforated

Ns quarter panel perforated

Exhaust hanger

Nsr chassis leg

Osr inner wing

This is the osr quarter with a hole cut into it to repair the outer and gain access to repair the inside. The wheel arch has come up fairly well with deox

This is probably the worst single part, the rear subframe offside front mounting. If i'd seen this before i was so far into it i might have changed my mind about fixing it. A lot of this looks a lot different now having undergone a lot of cutting out and two weeks of daily applications of deox.

[MULLEY]

Amazing repairs, ironically the piccy that shows the bumper mounting point is in perfect nick, just the rest of that panel is bubbling up. Mine has the rusted up mount bit & thats why my rear bumper doesnt hang as well as it should, the rest of that panel on mine is in better nick than your piccy.

I suppose the way to look at it Barry is that once you've done all this graft, you'll have a car that'll be able to do another 20 years before it gets in it's current condition again, i take my hat off to you sir Great job.

[citsncycles]

Christ, those rear wings and chassis rails look worse than Timex . Some great pics there though - I have some similar jobs to do in the future. Well done

[mat_fenwick]

I've got a little bit of bubbling behind the filler flap - at least any repair can hopefully be hidden if it's not invisible! Looks like you're doing a good job; getting back to shiny steel is the only long term solution.

[toddao]

Yes, good work Barry. I just looked up that Deox stuff - looks quite good.

I've got the problem that my first welding efforts from two years ago - in the same inner wing region - are starting to build small amounts of rust again. I haven't quite got the prep/sealing/finishing situation in hand yet. What products are you using apart from the Deox?

[rutter123]

nice work done similar repairs to my tzd turbo when i got it in 2007, it had spent its first 15years living on the salty aired south coast, the rust demons had got well into the usual places front inner wings rear end of sills inners and outer n/s rear axle mounting area n/s rear chassis, exhaust hanger, boot floor etc etc, tho somehow the front hinges/pillar suspect areas were solid and still are, think the o/s rear axle mount area will need doing for next mot as well as the o/s rear chassis looking a bit suspect, im no expert welder but i use a small gas mig and find that even with no real welding experience you can get good results with that little extra time spent... ggod job

[citsncycles]

I've got the problem that my first welding efforts from two years ago - in the same inner wing region - are starting to build small amounts of rust again. I haven't quite got the prep/sealing/finishing situation in hand yet. What products are you using apart from the Deox?

If I cannot cut all the rust out (my preferred option but not always practical), I attack it with a wire wheel and put a rust converter on any pitted areas left. Unless it's outer panel work it gets brushable seam sealer over all the joints, followed by rust resistant paint, underseal underneath and cavity wax in the box sections. If possible I try to seal and paint box sections as much as possible before closing them up.

Outer panel work gets everything smoothed with a sanding disc in a grinder, followed by a skim of filler and paint.

I don't tend to use a particular product, but one favorite is Jenolite rust converter.

The most important thing is to keep it all as dry as possible from start to finish - even damp air will start it rusting, and remember that both filler and primer is usually water absorbent.

[barry badger]

Repairs have been on hold for a few days due to work commitments but i'm hoping to get the passenger door hinge fitted on sunday. I'd originally estimated 2 weeks for the repairs so i didn't cancel the road tax, but it's dragging on now. Deox is a fairly recent discovery for me, i had no idea such products existed.
I'm friendly with a local guy who restores and shows classic cars, he's given me lots of advice regarding rustproofing. The products i'm using are bilt hamber- deox, dynax s50 and dynax ub plus dintrol- corromax, rc900 and dinitrol underseal plus u pol etch primer on any bare metal plus 3m seam sealer.
I'll probably do what i did to the 4x4 under the rear arches which was 2 coats of dinitrol corromax followed by two coats of dintrol underseal (can't remember the number), i am quite happy with this because i don't think anything gets missed.

[mat_fenwick]

Deox is a fairly recent discovery for me, i had no idea such products existed.

Me too! But will be using it again. I'm still sceptical of rust converters, as there's the danger that they will convert the top layer of rust but still leave unconverted rust beneath.

Some before and after shots:


...to this:


It takes ages at this time of year though - those photos were taken maybe a week apart, with fresh Deox applied daily. Still, it takes little time to actually put on so you can get on with other things, even if the overall rust removal process takes a while.

[barry badger]

It is absolutely incredible stuff i wish i'd discovered it sooner.

[toddao]

I take it that this is the 'Deox gel' as obviously you can't submerge a BX or Landie in solution! Do those pics of your Discovery Mat only feature the results of using Deox - no grinding etc?
I'm going to have to order directly from Bilt Hamber but they do courier stuff to Germany as you can't buy the stuff here yet.