Breathing fatty gooo . . .!

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joolie
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Breathing fatty gooo . . .!

Post by joolie »

The breather pipe between the oil filler and air filter is full of yellow white fatty goo and water. . . where the hell has all that come from???

I cant think where. . . the air filter is a little bit wet on the bottom, but not so wet, and not so much

The fatty goo leads all the way to the oil filler, and is INSIDE, an oil change would be sensible when I get it fixed. . . what happens when water . . or fatty goo gets i the oil?
'91 BX MkII 1769cc Turbo TZD Break

running on RME/SVO

IF it aInt BrOKe dON't trY 'n FIx iT.

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Vanny
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Post by Vanny »

the fatty goo is emulsified oil (that is water has mixed with water), NOT a good sign, ever. Do an oil change and see if it goes away. I'd recommend throwing a half litre of diesel into the oil and run it upto full temp a couple of times (let the fans come on). should see things straighten out a bit!

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Post by Doz »

I think there's a phrase for that ....

ah yes ... "they all do that sir". Usually caused by lots of short runs.

Clean it out, change the oil, enjoy the BX on longer journeys :wink:
Doz

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Way2go
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Post by Way2go »

/\ What he said! :D

It's because it is part of a closed breather system so is at it's worst on short runs. If the 'mayo' isn't solidified then it will normally dissappear on a long run. :D
1991 BX19GTi Auto

AlanS
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Post by AlanS »

Going back around 5/6 years, this question popped up on almost a daily basis. It was so prevalent that it created a life of its own, even a name; mayonnaise, due to its appearance.
It's far more common in colder climates than in the hotter ones, although, even in the tropics, it's not unheard of.
It was accepted as a "common fault" but this didn't answer the question, if it was a common fault, then why do some cars get it and others don't? Also why will a car suddenly "develop" it?
After many long winded debates, we eventually found that the cause was due to the engine thermostat or waxstat degrading with age and not operating correctly. We tend to expect an engine to run "cool" and many get quite excited at the fact their car runs around 60/70 degrees most of the time. Look at the book of instructions; the thermostat supposedly opens at 82 or 88 degrees depending on which thermostat is fitted to the car, so why is their car running at 60? Because the thermostat is not closing off correctly and is therefore circulating coolant right through the system from the time you hit the starter thereby gradually warming the engine whilst the radiator is trying to cool it at the same time, instead of staying shut until the 80+ temp is reached and then releasing it into the rest of the system. That we found was the long term cure. Prior to this, there were all kinds of "solutions" which in reality only hid the problems such as rearranging the breathing system and adding catch cans and so on.
As a precaution and part of the cure, it was suggested a removal of as much of the breathing system as possible and physically cleaning out, avoiding short runs if possible, although the new thermostat tended to solve that problem, and avoid the use of a straight mineral oil with a semi synthetic being the preferred option.
When the initial cleanout is done, it is also advisable to fit a new oil filter at the same time.


Alan S
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joolie
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Post by joolie »

Thanks for the tips. My thermostat has just been changed, but there is still air in the system, so it could be due to that. There was a hell of alot of mayonaise in the breather, and ive never soon it before. . . like you said, it seems to have developed the problem quite recently.

I got to have another crack at the air bleeding. . .
'91 BX MkII 1769cc Turbo TZD Break

running on RME/SVO

IF it aInt BrOKe dON't trY 'n FIx iT.

AlanS
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Post by AlanS »

Do you know what the rated temp of the thermostat was?

Over here we get an option of 82 or 88 but as we're the opposite end of the temperature spectrum, I usually tend to go for the 82 option due to the fact that on +40C days which we get plenty of where I am, the sooner the thermostat opens the better, but in your climate, I would imagine the opposite would need to apply.
Also, don't assume that just because it has a new thermostat in it that it's working OK.
When I worked at a Toyota place many years ago, we had a problem with a thermostat on a car so we replaced it. The problem persisted and almost drove us insane, until the foreman decided to check the thermostat and found it was faulty, so again replaced it and we still had problems, so he had a hunch and decided to test all the thermometers we had in stock. Of 20 he found only 2 which weren't faulty.
According to discussions we had years ago on these things, it seems the concensus was that they had an average life expectancy of 3 - 4 years, so not exactly what you'd call a piece of engineering and manufacturing genius. :roll: :oops:


Alan S
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kiwi
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Post by kiwi »

Years ago I got this problem because I was using Duckhams mineral based Oils.
Since I started using shell semi synthetic never had the problem, weird huh?

Well now I use Castrol Magnatec semi synthetic and you guessed it still no mayo.
1991 BX19 TZS 04/01/91 (Deceased)
1990 BX19 TRS 27/10/89 (Reborn)
1992 BX19 TXD (Ex UK - K 744 SDF) 15/06/92
1990 BX19 TZS Auto 06/11/1989
1992 BX TZD Turbo Estate (Ex UK) 1/07/91

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joolie
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Post by joolie »

The thermostat is an 88

I have a Statoil (Norwegian) mineral based in the car, It was the only available in 5l when I did the oil sump gasket last year.

Its f&¤ing horrible stuff, smells wierd, and gives me an alergic reation on the hands for up to 4 days I cant sleep cos everytime my hands get warm they itch.

Not recommended.

Im going to put in a synthetic non branded from a car superstore callled Biltema. maybe that will aid the problem.
'91 BX MkII 1769cc Turbo TZD Break

running on RME/SVO

IF it aInt BrOKe dON't trY 'n FIx iT.

kiwi
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Post by kiwi »

The thermostat is an 88
Probably tired and needs replacing anyways.
I have a Statoil (Norwegian) mineral based in the car, It was the only available in 5l when I did the oil sump gasket last year.
well its September now so it would be overdue a oil change by sounds of things? Since your going into winter probably a good time to change it and give the engine a fighting chance on those cold winter days.

Recommended oil change interval is 10,000km some say 5,000km just depends on the usage of the car. I am guesing you have a KM speedo being in sweden.

I would also recommend and engine oil flush and cleaning out the gunk at the same time.
1991 BX19 TZS 04/01/91 (Deceased)
1990 BX19 TRS 27/10/89 (Reborn)
1992 BX19 TXD (Ex UK - K 744 SDF) 15/06/92
1990 BX19 TZS Auto 06/11/1989
1992 BX TZD Turbo Estate (Ex UK) 1/07/91

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joolie
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Post by joolie »

Its a UK import.

It has been sitting 9 months waiting for a cylinder head.

But it still needs and oil change.

I got to wait for my next payday.

And im driving to berlin at the weekend, Im sure it will survive.

but I am concerened with this:

http://bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7135

HELP!?
'91 BX MkII 1769cc Turbo TZD Break

running on RME/SVO

IF it aInt BrOKe dON't trY 'n FIx iT.

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Post by DLM »

I've had the dreaded mayonnaise many times on petrol BXs but NEVER on a diesel. Plenty of oil breathing back to the air filter is quite normal but I've never had emulsified oil doing this - even on stop-start diesel usage.
Occasionally constrained by geography. When not driving, can rely on ferry, two wheels and musclepower when a couple of miles as the crow flies would become a round-road-trip ten times the distance.

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joolie
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Post by joolie »

I got other problems beside the mayonaise, that could be causing it.

There is still a leak in the cooling system, I can see steam coming off the engine when its running at high temp, and Im topping up the coolant all the time, it dosent pressurize. I think its getting into the air filter maybe via the radiator inlet.

I also got unrelated problem with the turbo, its blowing (and whistling without the air ducts connected) and the car is underpowered.

http://bxclub.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=71373#71373

Most of the mayonaise was betweeen the air filter and the oil breather pipe. I disconnected that (and havent put it back on) it out tipped a quarter litre of diesel in and drove it long distance. The mayonaise has cleared up a signifiacnt amount. but still something is up with the cooling.

The clutch cable has snapped now! but luckily I was on the motorway, and there isnt a single traffic light from the south coast of Sweden 700km to my garage place in Stockholm and Id just tanked up on veg oil!
'91 BX MkII 1769cc Turbo TZD Break

running on RME/SVO

IF it aInt BrOKe dON't trY 'n FIx iT.

c90cassette
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re rme/svo

Post by c90cassette »

hi joolie i know svo but what is rme?dont u wear rubber gloves when change engine oil?my friend just scrapped a tzd estate,he had given it me b4 but when it passed mot he wanted it back! bye rob.
hi i am rob in liverpool 1989 bx 17 dtr turbo

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joolie
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Post by joolie »

RME is Biodiesel.

It stands for Raps Methyl Ester, maybe its more of a scandinavian/german term.

Theres a fair few places to get it where you are, me bro buys 1000l cointainers from some bus company in St HeElens.

But SVO or WVO (waste veg oil) is better with a couple of Vow2 heaters installed.

I WILL be wearing gloves THIS oil change thanks to this dodgy Norwegian engine oil, that manages to gel up in a diesel and give alergic reaction, Im getting a recation from merely working with the engine parts that came into contact with the stuff!
'91 BX MkII 1769cc Turbo TZD Break

running on RME/SVO

IF it aInt BrOKe dON't trY 'n FIx iT.